Ever Heard of the 13 Desserts of Provence at Christmas and Why You Have to Eat Them All or Face Bad Luck? (Yes, Really)

If someone said to me I could have 13 desserts, I’d think I’d died and gone to dessert heaven. But then, I’d be wondering about the catch. Well, in this case, there isn’t one.

The 13 Desserts of Provence are a Christmas tradition that ensures guests will have good luck for the year ahead, but only if they taste all of them. You’ll find all sorts of things from dried figs and white nougat to almonds and a flatbread soaked in olive oil. 

The tradition represents Jesus and his 12 apostles at the Last Supper. The desserts stay on the table for three days after Christmas Eve, honoring the Holy Trinity. Families set them out on three tablecloths, surrounded by three candles and three cups of sprouted wheat. But how did it all start?

The Tradition of the 13 Desserts in Provence at Christmas

The first official mention of 13 desserts appeared in December 1925 in La Pignato, a Provençal newspaper. Dr. Joseph Fallen, a writer from Aubagne and member of the Félibrige cultural movement, wrote the definitive statement. “Here are sweets, delicacies, the thirteen desserts. You need thirteen, yes, thirteen, no more if you like, but not one less.”

Before 1925, Provençal families served plenty of Christmas desserts. A priest named François Marchetti described the custom back in 1683 in his book about Marseille traditions. He mentioned 13 breads, cakes, fresh fruits, and dried items served after Christmas Eve dinner. But he never specified the exact number as important.

Poet Laurent Pierre Bérenger devoted an entire chapter to Christmas desserts in his 1780s work Soirées Provençales. He listed nuts, figs, grapes, raisins, apples, oranges, candied citron, and nougat. Still no mention of 13 being significant.

The Félibrige movement changed that. Founded by poet Frédéric Mistral, the group worked to preserve Provençal language and culture. By the 1920s, they were actively codifying local traditions, and Fallen’s article gave them the number they needed. 

The Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires du Terroir Marseillais adopted it as the official Provençal Christmas dessert tradition.

Within a decade, 13 became the standard across Provence. Not 12, not 14. But 13.

The Star: Pompe à l’Huile

The pompe à l’huile sits at the center of every 13 desserts spread. It’s a flatbread made with olive oil, flour, sugar, and orange blossom water. The name translates to “oil pump,” which refers to how olive farmers used every last drop of oil from their vats.

After pressing olives, farmers poured flour into the empty vats to soak up residual oil. They took this oil-saturated flour to the local baker, who turned it into a sweet flatbread. Nothing went to waste.

The bread must never be cut with a knife. That would bring bad luck. Instead, you tear it by hand, symbolizing the breaking of bread at the Last Supper. It’s meant to be dunked in vin cuit, a sweet, cooked wine, or eaten alongside the other desserts.

The Four Beggars

Four items appear on every list: dried figs, almonds, raisins, and walnuts or hazelnuts. Together, they’re called the quatre mendiants, the four beggars.

Each represents a mendicant religious order that took vows of poverty. Dried figs stand for the Franciscans in their brown robes. Almonds represent the Carmelites in white. Raisins symbolize the Dominicans in black. Walnuts or hazelnuts are the Augustinians in their brown habits.

The symbolism dates back to the 13th and 14th centuries when these orders were established. By pairing humble dried fruits with religious orders who embraced poverty, Provençal families connected their Christmas table to acts of charity and humility.

The Nougats: Good and Evil

White nougat and black nougat always make the list. White nougat, made with honey, egg whites, almonds, and pistachios, represents purity and goodness. It’s soft and sweet, symbolizing the light of the winter solstice.

Black nougat, made with caramelized honey and almonds, is hard and crunchy. It represents life’s challenges and the darkness of winter. Some families serve pink nougat as a third option, though that’s less common.

The pairing of white and black nougat creates a visual and symbolic balance on the table. Light and dark. Good and evil. The duality of existence, all wrapped up in candy.

Calissons d’Aix

These almond and candied melon confections from Aix-en-Provence show up on most tables. They’re diamond-shaped, topped with royal icing, and almost too sweet. Legend says they were created in 1454 for the wedding of King René of Anjou, though there is little evidence to support the story.

What’s certain is that by the 19th century, calissons had become a symbol of Provençal candy-making tradition. They’re labor-intensive to make, requiring ground almonds, candied melon paste, sugar, and orange blossom water. Most families buy them rather than making them at home.

The Fruit

Dates appear on every list, symbolizing Christ’s journey from the East and connecting Provence to the Holy Lands. Some families insist you need to find the letter “O” on the date pit, supposedly what Mary or baby Jesus exclaimed upon seeing the fruit. That’s probably folklore, but people look for it anyway.

Muscat grapes represent Provence’s wine heritage. Families store them carefully from the autumn harvest, often hanging bunches in cool, dry places to preserve them through winter. Finding fresh grapes at Christmas was a point of pride.

Other fruit varies by family and region. Oranges, pears, apples, and clementines from Corsica. The melon de Noël, a wrinkled green winter melon, appears on some tables, though it’s hard to find. When families can’t get one, they substitute other “exotic” fruits like pineapple or pomegranate.

Quince Paste and Candied Fruit

Quince paste adds a tangy element to the otherwise sweet spread. Families make it in autumn when quinces are in season, then store it for Christmas. It’s thick, sticky, and pairs well with cheese if anyone has room for that.

Candied melon, citron, and other fruits were expensive treats that showed a family’s prosperity. By the 20th century, industrial production made them more accessible.

What Counts as 13?

Here’s where it gets messy. More than 55 different items have been counted as part of the 13 desserts tradition at various times. The exact list varies by town, canton, and family.

Some include navettes, small boat-shaped biscuits flavored with orange blossom. Others add chocolate-covered almonds shaped like olives. Papalines d’Avignon, chocolate candies filled with oregano liqueur, show up in some homes. Meringues appear on certain tables.

The Bûche de Noël everyone associates with a French Christmas usually doesn’t count toward the 13. It’s served on Christmas Day after lunch, not on Christmas Eve with the gros souper.

The tradition allows flexibility. As long as you have 13 items and include the essential ones, the pompe à l’huile, the nougats, and the four beggars, you’re following the rules.

Making Your Own 13 Desserts Spread

Start with the essentials. You need the four beggars (dried figs, almonds, raisins, and walnuts or hazelnuts), white and black nougat, and pompe à l’huile. Those seven items are non-negotiable.

Add fresh fruit next. Clementines, oranges, and dates work well. Muscat grapes if you can find them. Pears or apples round it out.

Add a sweet touch. If you’re in Provence, grab calissons from a local shop. If you’re not, substitute with whatever regional sweets you have. The tradition allows flexibility as long as you hit 13 items total.

Make it look good. Arrange everything on large platters or in decorative bowls. Put the pompe à l’huile in the center as the focal point. Remember to tear it by hand, never cut it with a knife.

Set it all out on Christmas Eve and leave it there for three days. Make sure everyone tastes all 13 for good luck.