All Aboard the Espresso Riviera: Rome to Marseille in Vintage Night‑Train Style

Is there anything more romantic than taking an overnight train in full vintage style? Well, now you can. This summer, every weekend throughout July and August, FS Treni Turistici is reviving its nostalgic night-time train from Milan to Marseilles. The Espresso Riviera will whisk you from Italy into the heart of the gorgeous French Riviera.

I’ve always wondered what it would have been like to take a train during the golden age of the railways. Those steam trains looked so magnificent, and the sound they made, just fabulous. Apparently, when George Gershwin wrote his famous piece of music, Rhapsody in Blue, it was inspired by a steam train journey he took.

While the Espresso Riviera isn’t a steam train, it brings back the romance and nostalgia of vintage train travel, with some added modern-day luxury. Forget the busy airport where you’re squeezed into economy seats. This is slow travel at its best, taking in the sights of the south of France on your way.

What is the Espresso Riviera? 

After decades of cutbacks, airport chaos, and canceled routes, sleeper trains are making a comeback. And FS Treni Turistici Italiani, the new tourism-focused branch of Italy’s national rail company, is leading the charge with a very specific goal: revive the golden age of rail travel but with modern amenities.

The Espresso Riviera launched for the first time in summer 2024, with a route from Milan to Nice and extending all the way from Rome to Marseille, stopping in the famous French Riviera towns you always hear about, including Nice, Cannes, Toulon, and Monaco.

It brings a bit of drama back to travel. The cars are restored vintage carriages with wood paneling, classic fittings, and a proper dining cart that serves regional dishes instead of limp sandwiches wrapped in plastic. You’re not racing through the countryside. You’re rolling through it, watching the coastline slip by as you sip a glass of wine in a velvet armchair.

The Route and Schedule

The Espresso Riviera runs every weekend from early July to the end of August. It’s a seasonal service, which makes it feel even more like something special. You’ve got eight weekends to make it happen, and then it’s gone until next year.

The train leaves Rome’s Termini station on Friday evening. It rumbles north through Italy, past Genoa and along the Ligurian coast, where the hills start to lean in close to the sea. Once it crosses into France, the route hits the full Riviera stretch: Ventimiglia, Menton, Monaco, Nice, Antibes, Cannes, Saint-Raphaël, and finally Marseille. You wake up somewhere between the border and the French coastline, with the light just beginning to shift and the air feeling different already.

It’s a long journey, just over 15 hours from start to finish, but that’s kind of the point. You’re not meant to rush this. You sleep through part of it and spend the rest just soaking it in. You eat at a table, not off a tray. You fall asleep to the motion of the train instead of the buzz of a plane cabin. You wake up in a different country without having to unpack your liquids into a plastic bag. 

The return leg leaves Marseille on Saturday evening, and you roll back into Rome just after sunrise on Sunday. That gives you just enough time for a full day in Marseille or a stop-off in one of the coastal towns along the way. 

Onboard Experience and Amenities

The Espresso Riviera might be a throwback, but it’s not the Orient Express. This is practical vintage: authentic carriages from another era, meticulously refurbished for comfort. You’ll still hear the groan of the brakes and feel the low hum of the wheels on the tracks. That’s part of the experience.

There are several ways to travel onboard, depending on your budget and personal preferences regarding space. You can book a private sleeper if you prefer to have your own room. These are small but cozy, with bunk beds and a little sink tucked into the corner. You get proper bedding, and there’s something satisfying about shutting the door and having your own quiet bubble on a moving train.

If you’re more social or on a tighter budget, the couchette cars have shared compartments with four fold-out bunks. During the day, they convert into regular seats, so you can sit and look out the window without feeling like you’re in a bunk bed all afternoon. They’re simple but clean, and the rhythm of the train makes it easier to sleep than you’d think.

Then there’s the daytime seating. These are panoramic window cars, featuring classic armchairs and small tables, perfect for watching the scenery pass by. If you’re taking a shorter leg of the trip, such as from Nice to Marseille, it’s a good way to soak it all in without needing a bed.

The dining car serves regional food made with locally sourced ingredients. Dinner is available if you board early enough, and breakfast is served before arrival. They even do aperitifs, which just feels right as the sun sets over the Ligurian coast.

There’s also a bar cart where you can sip a drink, read a book, or chat with whoever’s nearby. There’s no Wi-Fi and no seatback screens. If you want entertainment, you’ll have to look out the window or talk to someone. 

The route is one of the most beautiful in Europe. It hugs the Mediterranean in places, cuts through old tunnels, and runs alongside cliffs that make you feel like you’re right on the edge of the sea. You pass vineyards, fishing villages, palm trees, and apartment blocks all in one stretch. It’s reminiscent of an Agatha Christie or Poirot book.

It’s not for everyone. If you’re in a rush, this probably isn’t your thing. But if you’ve got the time, then this train is worth it. It’s travel that lets you breathe.

French Riviera Experience Stops

The Espresso Riviera gives you access to some of the most iconic stops along the Mediterranean. Whether you’re riding the full route or planning to hop off along the way, these places are ideal for a side trip.

Monaco

All glitz and glamor, but surprisingly compact. You can cover the main sights in a few hours: the Monte-Carlo Casino, the royal palace, and the old town streets above the port. It’s fun to gawk at the yachts and sports cars, but there’s history here, too, if you’re willing to look for it. Don’t forget to check out the Oceanographic Museum.

Nice

An easy crowd-pleaser. Wide boulevards, a long beach promenade, and an old town that smells like soap, spices, and fresh bread. The Cours Saleya market is colorful and chaotic in the best way. Stop for lunch, dip your feet in the sea, and pop into one of the smaller art museums if the sun gets too much.

Cannes

A bit more polished than Nice, with a slower pace once you’re away from the red carpet landmarks. Walk up to Le Suquet for views over the bay, then head down for a cold drink along the marina. There’s a public beach if you didn’t pack for fancy. Keep your eyes open for big-name boutiques, but also for local bakeries that do a better job.

Menton

France’s lemon capital and a quieter, more pastel version of the Riviera. The old town climbs the hill in stacked layers of yellow and orange, with steep alleys and sea views at every turn. It’s worth a visit just for the vibe. The gardens are lush, and there’s a gentleness to the pace that sets Menton apart from its flashier neighbors.

Antibes

Somewhere between laid-back and luxe. Antibes has one of the best old towns on the coast, a lively harbor filled with mega yachts, and plenty of lovely cafés. The Picasso Museum is small but memorable, and the coastal path around the Cap is perfect if you feel like stretching your legs.

Booking, Pricing & Tips

Tickets for the Espresso Riviera are purchased through FS Treni Turistici’s website. The train only runs on weekends from July 5 to August 31, so there are just eight chances to catch it in either direction. 

Prices vary depending on your travel preferences. If you’re after a sleeper compartment for yourself, expect to pay between 150 and 200 euros. That gives you your own room, bedding, and a bit of privacy. 

Couchettes, which are shared with up to three others, are more affordable, around 100 euros per person. These work well if you’re traveling with friends or don’t mind a bunk-bed vibe. Daytime seats are the most affordable option, typically priced between 50 and 70 euros, depending on the leg of the trip.

If you’re connecting to or from another city, look into using Trenitalia or SNCF regional lines to link up with the Espresso Riviera. It’s not part of a rail pass system yet, but it’s an easy add-on for anyone already traveling by train through Italy or France. I tend to use Trainline as it covers both and always has good prices.

Practical Info & Lingo

If you haven’t taken a European sleeper train before, a few things might be unfamiliar. The Espresso Riviera isn’t complicated, but knowing a bit of the lingo makes the trip smoother.

Couchette:
This is a shared sleeping compartment with four fold-out bunks. It’s not luxurious, but it’s clean and surprisingly comfortable. You’ll get a pillow, sheet, and blanket. If you’re not traveling with friends, you’ll likely share with strangers.

Sleeper:
This is a private compartment with one or two beds. Some have sinks, some don’t. You get full bedding and more privacy, which makes a difference if you’re doing the full journey.

Salottino:
These are lounge-style daytime seats. Ideal for shorter legs of the trip or if you’re not planning to sleep. You get big windows, decent legroom, and usually a little table.

Dining car:
This is where you’ll find proper meals. Prices are reasonable, and no reservation is required. It’s open for dinner and breakfast depending on the direction and timing of your journey.

Bar cart:
A smaller setup with drinks, snacks, and a few light bites. This is also the social hub of the train. Expect to find people lingering with a glass of wine long after dark.

Tickets & ID:
You’ll need your passport, even though it’s a Schengen trip. Tickets are digital or paper, and the conductor will check them shortly after departure. Keep them handy.

Electricity & charging:
There are sockets in most compartments, but they’re not always in the most convenient places. Bring a travel adapter and a battery pack, just in case.

Bathrooms:
These are shared and at the end of each car. Basic but clean. Don’t expect a shower, and bring your own soap or sanitizer.

Luggage:
No checked bags here. You bring it all on board yourself. There are racks in each compartment or above your seat. Keep it light—you’ll be glad you did.

Language:
Staff speak Italian and some French, with enough English to get you through most situations. 

A Summer Ride Worth Taking

The Espresso Riviera isn’t for everyone, but if the idea of trading airport stress for a proper seat, a view, and a decent meal appeals to you, you’ll love it. You can fall asleep in Italy and wake up on the French coast without touching your suitcase or checking a departure board. 

This train brings back something we’ve lost in all the rush. Not just nostalgia, but the idea that the journey itself can be enjoyable, not just the destination you’re heading to.