An American Bookstore in Paris | Shakespeare and Company

Last updated on March 27th, 2024 at 06:14 pm

Wondering if Shakespeare and Company Paris is worth visiting?

Well, you’re in the right place if you’re talking about the famous American Bookstore in Paris, Shakespeare and Company. It is definitely worth a visit.

And I should know as I am, without a doubt, the biggest bookworm you’re likely to come across. I love nothing more than whiling away hours at a time in a good bookshop. 

And as probably, the most famous independent bookstore in the world, Shakespeare and Company, has been on my bucket list for a while.

Just the thought of stepping into a place steeped in literary history, without a care for what the society of the time thought, was too much for me to resist. It was like a magnet drawing me to it.

And so it was I found myself outside the most famous bookshop in Paris on a beautiful March morning, ten minutes before it opened, eager to get inside.

With its proximity to Notre Dame, the Seine River across the road, and its connection to so many famous authors, poets and literary greats, it really does have it all. 

But what lies behind its doors, and what secrets does it hold for a book lover? Let’s dive in and find out.

Where is Shakespeare and Company Paris?

Located at 37 rue de la Bûcherie, it’s in the 5th arrondissement on the Left Bank of the Seine River, directly opposite the Notre-Dame Cathedral.

The nearest metro station is Saint-Michel-Notre-Dame, just a short walk away.

Visit the Shakespeare and Company Website for opening hours as these can change.

What To Expect When You Visit The Famous American Bookstore in Paris

When I visited, there was a film crew keeping people away from the entrance of the store. I’m not sure what they were doing, but it worked in my favour as no people were going in and out, so it was the perfect picture opportunity – nobody photobombing my picture.

The film crew weren’t using the exit, only the entrance, so I sneaked up to the bench outside the window of the exit door and coerced a passerby into taking a picture of me sitting on the bench. 

It was a little souvenir to remind me that I really was there and it wasn’t just a dream.

As you walk in, you almost don’t know where to look. There are signs everywhere telling you no photos or videos to be taken anywhere in the shop. Which I, of course, respected. I was happy to commit as much as possible to memory and do what every good writer does, paint a picture with words.

It was an absolute privilege to walk where so many writers have gone before me and drink in the atmosphere. 

The smell of the books, old and new, was a familiar smell that never fails to stop me in my tracks.

There are so many nooks and crannies to explore, with a lovely little area resembling a cupboard under the stairs, reminiscent of Harry Potter, for children to sit and read. 

I love this quote from the founder of the store, who sums it up perfectly.

I created this bookstore like a man would write a novel, building each room like a chapter, and I like people to open the door the way they open a book, a book that leads into a magic world in their imaginations.

George Whitman

At the front of the shop, you’ll find books on the legacy and history of Shakespeare and Company, along with a book of interviews with different writers. Further on, the books are separated into categories, as you’d expect.

It’s a literary labyrinth with every shelf full to bursting point with books, and you feel like you’re peeling back the layers of the shop one shelf at a time the further in you go.

But for me, the magic happened as I walked up the creaky wooden stairs into the reading room. 

The steps held my attention as each one had words painted onto them written by a 14th-century Persian poet, Hafiz

These words set the scene for what was to come, which truly was astonishing.

You can’t help but catch your breath as you get to the top because sitting right in front of an open window is an old wooden desk with an ancient-looking typewriter.

But the thing that gets you is the view. To the right, you have uninterrupted views of Notre Dame. Now granted, there is still scaffolding all over it, or there was when I visited in March, a few months before the Olympics, but it’s still stunning.

A bench runs around the room for readers and writers alike to sit and while away the time. The bright yellow cushions make it comfy, and that view allows you to go into a daydream of the past. 

As you sit there, you try to imagine what it would have been like to be one of those lucky Tumbleweeds who were allowed to stay here overnight in return for doing a day’s work in the shop, but more on that in a minute.

In the corner of the room is a small bed, although I didn’t sit on it as I wasn’t convinced it would be very comfy. Plus, it was rather low, and getting up would have been interesting. 

A small gallery area overlooks the shop below, and I loved seeing the expressions on people’s faces as they came in.

I spent one of the happiest hours sitting there, reading my book and glancing up every five minutes or so to drink in that wonderful view, letting my mind wander back to Ernest Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, and F. Scott Fitzgerald.

I couldn’t resist buying a book about the history behind the bookstore that was a beacon of hope for so many aspiring writers. And, of course, I paid the extra 30 cents to get my paper bag complete with the logo.

And if you get a book, don’t forget to have it stamped with the official stamp as I did. 

I know I’ll be back. How could I not, because I have fallen ever so slightly in love with George Whitman’s bookshop?

A Potted History of Paris’ Shakespeare and Company Bookshop

The original Shakespeare and Company in Paris was opened in 1919 by an American bookseller, Sylvia Beach, at 8 rue Dpuytren. It moved a couple of years later to rue de l’Odéon, and it was here, in 1922, that Sylvia published James Joyce’s book, Ulysses, when nobody else would touch it.

Her bookstore was a haven for the Lost Generation of writers, and you’d often find literary greats such as Gertrude Stein, F. Scott Fitzgerald, T.S Elliot and Ernest Hemingway, to name but a few, hanging out there regularly.

Just the thought of being there at that time in Paris has me going off into rapturous daydreams. I truly believe I was born in the wrong decade.

Unfortunately, during the Nazi occupation of Paris in 1941, Sylvia shut up shop and never reopened.

However, all was not lost. In 1951, George Whitman took up the mantle, opening a new shop on Rue de la Bûcherie, with Sylvia’s blessing. She referred to it as the “spiritual successor” to her own 

For Whitman though, it was never about money. It was more about providing generations of writers a chance to hone their craft. He offered something no other bookstore owner ever had, a sanctuary away from the world and an opportunity to be part of a community.

The Tumbleweeds

From day 1, writers of all abilities were invited into George’s world and allowed to sleep in the bookstore. Some famous names amongst them included Henry Miller, James Baldwin, Ray Bradbury, Lawrence Durrell and Gregory Corso.

They were affectionately nicknamed “The Tumbleweeds” by George as he likened them to the plant of the same name. It’s estimated, that 30,000+ aspiring writers have slept in between the bookcases of this legendary store. 

Although, you were better off in a sleeping bag on the floor rather than one of the flea-ridden beds. One of the girls staying there slept in one of the beds on her first night and woke up the next morning covered in angry red sores.

And places weren’t guaranteed just because you were a starving writer. You had to present yourself to George and plead your case, and his moods were notorious, so it was often potluck.

However, there were three rules to Tumbleweed life. The first being you had to spend at least two hours a day working in the shop. Then, a promise to spend part of your time reading and writing, and finally, a mandatory one-page autobiography.

The latter have been kept and now make up a collection of everyone who has stayed within those sacred walls, whether for one night or longer.

Apparently, the actor Ethan Hawke spent a few nights there when he was sixteen and skint.

The Modern Day Shakespeare’s

In 2002, George handed over the reins to another Sylvia, his daughter, and she still runs it today.

George remained true to who he was until the end, refusing to waste money on frivolous things such as haircuts and often cooking from the scraps he collected from restaurants.

He lived with his books, taking rooms on the 4th floor, immersed in his own world. 

His sole interest was in expanding his bookstore, which went from one narrow passageway to a sprawling metropolis of bookshelves, a reading room and ultimately makeshift bedrooms for those in need of somewhere to sleep. 

Everywhere you look you’ll see his touches, from the myriad of pictures on the walls of writers to the signs above the doors. They’ll never make another one like him. 

He died at the ripe old age of 98 in 2011, leaving Syliva to carry on his life’s work.

FAQS: Paris Shakespeare and Co

Final thoughts: Shakespeare And Co Bookstore, The American Bookstore in Paris

If you’re coming to Paris and you’re a book lover, a trip to Shakespeare and Company, is something you don’t want to miss.

There are a few English language bookstores in Paris but none with the history of this one. Although, I do recommend checking out the Canadian Abbey Bookshop just down the road from Shakespeare.

And if you love the idea of being in the same hangouts as the Lost Generation, don’t forget to check out Cafe Les Deux Magots, a favourite hangout of Hemingway.

The bookstore is in the heart of Paris, surrounded by cute little streets to explore and coffee shops to relax in.

If you need help finding your way, check out this article on my favourite apps to use when you’re in Paris. It’s a huge help and a massive timesaver.