Best Things to Do in Annecy in the Fall: Lakes, Mountains, and Festivals

Annecy is one of those places that seems to be beautiful no matter the season. However, for me, it’s at its most stunning in Autumn. The fall colors surround the lake with burnt orange, russet red, and that lovely deep yellow you only seem to see at this time of year. 

By the time September hits, the hoards of tourists have gone home, leaving the little town to recover from the onslaught. If you’re lucky, then October will bring an Indian summer with some late sunshine, perfect for bike rides and picnics.

It’s also the time for some fun French festivals filled with history and tradition, some dating back to the 12th century. Annecy in the Fall is, without a doubt, the most spectacular time to visit without the crowds. But what can you expect, and what don’t you want to miss?

Annecy in the Fall

It’s the stuff fairytales are made of, with the lake, canals, backdrop of snowcapped mountains, and the castle overlooking everything. You can easily see why it’s been nicknamed the Venice of the Alps. While it really is stunning at Christmas, Autumn is an equally beautiful time to go.

The old town is woven with narrow canals that wind between painted houses built in the Piedmont style. Sitting right in the middle like a stone sentinel is the Palais de l’Île, with its unusual, ship-like shape, watching over the water.

The Bridges and Waterways of Annecy

Annecy’s old town stretches for over 500 meters along the Thiou River, a waterway that flows from Lake Annecy before joining the Fier, a Rhône tributary. At just 5 kilometers long, the Thiou is one of the shortest rivers in France.

In the 19th century, it played a bigger role than its size suggests. Its flow powered factories and workshops that lined the riverbanks, helping drive the town’s industrial growth.

The first thing I noticed about Annecy is that it’s full of bridges, which makes sense when you see all the canals running through it. You have to get from one side to the other somehow. Having said that, each of these bridges gives you a different perspective, which is one of the things I loved about it.

Pont de la Halle

As you follow the river from the lake, the Pont de la Halle has one of the best views in town. On the left, café terraces spill out toward the water. On the right, the white façade of the St François de Sales church stands quietly in contrast. And straight ahead, framed by the Perrière Bridge, the stone walls of the Palais de l’Île rise from the canal like a scene out of time.

Quais de l’Île et de l’Évêché

If it’s a Venetian feel you want, this is where you’ll get it in spades. The buildings lining the Thiou are in soft shades of lemon, mustard, pink, salmon, and pistachio. There is no other word for it but stunning.

The Quai de l’Île, as we know it today, was laid out in the mid-1800s. The opposite bank, though, has held onto its original layout, giving you a glimpse of what Annecy looked like long before tourism arrived.

Pont Morens, the city’s first stone bridge, connects Quai de l’Île with Rue Sainte Claire. It was once covered with houses, right up until the 19th century. Even now, the street ducks beneath buildings on either side of the bridge.

From here, you get a lovely view down the canal, past the façades of Quai de l’Île, all the way to the next crossing at Pont de la République.

Pont de la République

Pont de la République marks the edge of what’s often called “Little Venice.” From here, there’s a well-known view back toward the Palais de l’Île, with the canals and old buildings lining the banks of the Thiou.

Downstream, you’ll spot the mechanical gates that once controlled water flow for a major cotton factory. They’re no longer in use but still add character to the riverside.

Back in 1874, engineer Sadi Carnot designed a clever system to regulate the lake’s water level. That work helped manage both flooding and flow, shaping how the town interacts with the water even today.

Discovering Annecy’s Old Town

The best way to discover the old town is to simply wander around. If you’re there on a Sunday, start with the market with stalls piled high with local cheeses, sausages, bread, and flowers. 

From there, wander along Rue Sainte-Claire and Rue de l’Île. The arcades are lined with little shops and cafés, and the streets open into squares like Place Sainte-Claire, where a fountain and painted façades make a natural stop for coffee. 

Over on Quai des Cordeliers, you’ll find the old public washhouse, its cast-iron pillars still standing from the days when women scrubbed laundry by the water. A short walk further brings you to Île Saint-Joseph, now a small public garden where locals sit under the trees.

At the heart of it all sits the Palais de l’Île. Rising straight out of the canal, this triangular stone building has had many lives as a prison, courthouse, and mint. Today it’s a museum, but it’s also the most photographed spot in town, thanks to its unusual shape and position in the water.

There are also plenty of churches in the old town. Saint-Maurice, from the 15th century, has chapels once funded by the town’s trade guilds. The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre was the seat of François de Sales. And Saint-François de Sales church, with its bright white façade right on the water, is a landmark you can’t really miss.

Château d’Annecy

Sitting above the old town, the Château d’Annecy has watched over the lake and streets below for centuries. The first parts of the fortress were built in the 12th century by the Counts of Geneva, and construction carried on in stages through the 16th century. Each addition shows the shift from defensive stronghold to stately residence, giving the castle its mix of thick medieval towers and later Renaissance wings.

After the Counts of Geneva, the Dukes of Savoy moved in, using the castle as both a home and a base of power. By the 17th century, its role faded and it fell into decline. For years, it stood empty, then in the 19th century, the French army took it over and turned it into barracks. 

That military chapter kept the building intact but stripped it of much of its grandeur. By the middle of the 20th century, the army had left, and the city of Annecy stepped in to restore and transform it into what it is today: a museum and cultural space.

Inside is the Musée-Château, which is split into different sections. One dedicated to regional art, with paintings, furniture, and religious works tied to Savoyard history. Another highlights Alpine culture, from traditional tools to local crafts. The Observatoire des Lacs is especially fascinating, with exhibits on the ecology and preservation of Alpine lakes, including Lake Annecy itself.

Walking through its courtyards and climbing its towers, you get shifting views of the rooftops below, the sweep of the lake, and the outline of the surrounding mountains. It’s easy to see why rulers once valued this position; the outlook is commanding, but it’s also simply beautiful.

Lakeside Strolls, Boats & Cycling

Annecy’s lake is the centerpiece of the town, and autumn is the perfect season to enjoy it. The trees along the shoreline turn brilliant shades of red and gold, and the light is softer, giving the water a silvery calm. 

The Promenade du Pâquier is a wide stretch of green that runs right along the water and leads you toward the Jardins de l’Europe, a landscaped park filled with plane trees and winding paths. From here, you get views across the lake toward the mountains, with benches to stop and sit and take it all in.

If you’d rather be on the water than beside it, boat rentals are still available in the fall. You can take a pedal boat out for a short spin or hire a small electric boat to cruise at your own pace. For something more leisurely, lake cruises run year-round, offering an easy way to see the surrounding villages and peaks without any effort on your part.

Cycling is another way to experience the lake. The voie verte, a long greenway that hugs much of the western shore, is flat and well-maintained, making it ideal for a relaxed ride. In autumn, the route is quieter, and you can stop along the way at small beaches or lakeside cafés that stay open into the season. 

If you don’t have your own bike, rentals are easy to find in town, from traditional cycles to e-bikes that make the ride even easier.

Hiking & Semnoz Mountain Trails

For a different perspective on Annecy in autumn, head into the hills. The Semnoz plateau sits just outside town and offers sweeping views over the lake, the Bauges mountains, and even Mont Blanc on a clear day. In fall, the slopes glow with orange and red, and the air has that crisp, clean bite without being freezing cold.

There are trails for every pace here. Families often choose the gentle loops at the top of the plateau, while more seasoned hikers take the longer routes that cut through forest and pasture. Along the way, you’ll pass alpine farms, open meadows, and patches of woodland where the leaves crunch underfoot.

Autumn is also the season when cattle and sheep are brought down from the high pastures, so you might come across herds on the move or hear cowbells echoing through the valleys. 

If you prefer something more structured, local guides run day hikes that combine nature with tastings of regional cheese or charcuterie. It’s a rewarding way to combine the scenery with a sense of place. And even if you’re not up for a full hike, the drive up to the summit of Semnoz is worth it for the views alone.

Autumnal Festivals & Savoyard Flavours

Autumn in Annecy is the season when the town leans into tradition with festivals that celebrate local life, food, and history. If you visit at the right time, you’ll find the streets buzzing with music, markets, and the unmistakable smell of Alpine cooking.

One of the biggest events is the Retour des Alpages, held this year on Saturday, October 12. It’s a lively day marking the return of herds from the mountain pastures. The old town fills with cows, goats, and sheep parading through the streets, along with folk music, traditional costumes, and food stalls selling everything from tartiflette to freshly baked bread. 

A week later, on Sunday, October 20, comes the Ancileviennerie in the nearby village of Annecy-le-Vieux. This festival has a strong focus on rural heritage, with demonstrations of old trades, craft markets, and plenty of regional food. It’s a bit less crowded than the Retour des Alpages but no less atmospheric, offering a slower way to step into Savoyard culture.

In November, the mood turns heartier with the Fête du Caïon on Saturday, November 9. “Caïon” means pig in the local dialect, and this festival is all about pork in its many forms. Charcuterie takes center stage, alongside live music and dancing that keep the energy up well into the evening. 

Paragliding & Adventure Activities

Annecy is one of Europe’s most popular spots for paragliding, and autumn offers some of the clearest skies of the year. Launch sites like Col de la Forclaz give you takeoff points high above the lake, where the air is crisp and the views stretch to the snow-dusted peaks in the distance. I haven’t done this, but I was sorely tempted. Tandem flights are available year-round, so you don’t need any experience to give it a try.

If flying isn’t for you, there are plenty of other ways to add adventure to an autumn visit. Mountain biking trails cut through the surrounding hills, and with the cooler weather, the rides are more comfortable than in summer. For something gentler, the via ferrata routes nearby combine climbing with fixed cables and ladders, letting you scale cliffs with extra support and unbeatable views of the lake.

Closer to the water, paddleboarding and kayaking are still possible into October if the weather holds. The lake stays calm on autumn mornings, giving you a quiet way to explore away from the town. And if you’d rather stay dry, climbing gyms and indoor sports centers in Annecy give you options for active days when the rain moves in.

A Quick History of Annecy and the Lake

Annecy hasn’t always been a peaceful lakeside retreat. Back in the 10th century, it was more of a strategic outpost than a getaway. The town sat at the crossroads of trade routes that connected Italy with what’s now Switzerland and parts of France. Control of the area shifted often, but the Counts of Geneva and later the House of Savoy saw its value early on.

In the 16th century, Annecy became a stronghold for Catholicism after the Reformation took hold in Geneva. When Calvinism gained power across the lake, Catholic clergy and communities fled to Annecy. At one point, half the town was owned by religious orders. They controlled everything from churches and convents to workshops, mills, farmland, and forests.

During this period, some of the town’s most significant buildings were constructed, including the Logis de Nemours, the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, and the Maison Lambert. But it wasn’t all peaceful. In 1600, tensions between Charles Emmanuel I, the Duke of Savoy, and France’s King Henri IV created an opportunity for Calvinists to claim property in the region. That conflict wrapped up in the late 1590s with the Treaty of Lyon.

Then in 1602, a local man named François de Sales became bishop, and his work helped spark a religious and cultural renewal across the region. His influence gave Annecy a new status as a center of Catholic thought during the Counter-Reformation, and it became known as the Rome of the Alps.

By the late 1700s, revolutionary ideas were spreading fast. Many Savoyards were working in Paris at the time, and the writings of Voltaire and Rousseau made their way back to the region. In 1792, things came to a head. Troops led by General Moutesquiou-Fezensac invaded the Duchy of Savoy, forcing the local army, government officials, clergy, and even the king to flee to Piedmont.

Later that same year, the Assembly of the Allobroges gathered in the cathedral in Chambéry. The old power structure was gone, and the department of Mont Blanc was created in its place. Annecy became part of France for the next 23 years. When French troops arrived and the Duke of Savoy fled, many locals felt a sense of relief. It felt like a fresh start. But the mood didn’t last. The revolution brought mass conscription, anti-religious policies, and the departure of the nobility and clergy. 

In 1866, the steam train arrived in Annecy for the first time. It marked a turning point. With easier access came the early waves of tourism. The town expanded gradually in the early 20th century, adding new neighborhoods like Les Balmettes, Vovray, and La Prairie. Electricity followed, powered by the Fier hydroelectric station, which has been lighting Annecy since 1906.

Tourism and industry grew side by side. Local factories took off, with big names like Aussedat, Dunant, Crolard, and Léon Laydernier putting Annecy on the map. When paid holidays were introduced in 1936, working-class families began coming to Annecy to enjoy the lake and the mountains. Urban growth started to slow after the postwar boom of the 1960s and 70s.

On January 1st, 2017, the five inter-municipalities around the Annecy basin merged. The new structure, Greater Annecy, now includes 34 communes and over 200,000 people.