Donjon Gilles Aycelin, the Jewel in Narbonne's Crown

Last updated on August 27th, 2024 at 08:44 am

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Narbonne is in the picturesque Languedoc region of southern France. It’s a beautiful city, but the best view is, without a doubt, from the top of the Donjon Gilles Aycelin. You’re treated to uninterrupted, 360-degree views, including landmarks like the Narbonne Cathedral with its towering Gothic choir. It’s so close you could almost reach out and touch it.

On a clear day, beyond the cityscape, you can see the lush vineyards that define the region’s landscape and the distant Pyrenees mountains. It was a beautiful Spring day when I went, and those views were breathtaking.

But there is so much more to this tower than the views. As always, in France, there is a history behind it that’s worth discovering.

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The Donjon Gilles Aycelin in Narbonne, featuring its historic Gothic architecture with intricate stonework, spires, and towers under a clear blue sky.

The History of the Donjon Gilles Aycelin

Sat in the centre of Narbonne, the Donjon is a striking building that immediately draws your eye. It was on my list of “things to do in Narbonne” when I went on a day trip during our vacation in the Languedoc.

My husband wasn’t so enthusiastic and opted to stay below, perched on the edge of the remains of part of the Via Domitia, an ancient Roman road connecting Italy to Spain. But that didn’t deter me; I was determined to get to the top, take in the view, and learn more about this historic monument.

Close-up of a round stone tower at the Donjon Gilles Aycelin, with small windows and medieval architecture against a blue sky.

What is a Donjon?

“Donjon” refers to a castle’s central tower or keep, the last line of defense, and the lord’s or commander’s residence. It is a critical feature in medieval fortifications, offering both a vantage point for surveillance and a stronghold in times of siege.

A woman posing in front of the historic Donjon Gilles Aycelin in Narbonne, with its ornate stone facade, clock tower, and flags.

Why Was the Donjon Built?

At the time of the donjon’s construction, Narbonne was part of the Kingdom of France, having been incorporated into the realm earlier in the 13th century. The region had a complex history of local autonomy, Roman heritage, and subsequent integration into the Frankish and then French territories.

Built between 1295 and 1306, it was commissioned by Archbishop Gilles Aycelin, who was also the Lord Chancellor of France at the time. It was constructed as a defensive complex adjacent to the Archbishop’s palace.

It’s a classic example of medieval military architecture, built primarily from local limestone, a material chosen for its durability and availability. The design includes several bartizans (small overhanging turrets) used for observation and defense.

A red sign on a stone wall inside the Donjon Gilles Aycelin that reads 'Terrasse supérieure 41 m de hauteur', indicating the height of the upper terrace.

Climbing to the Top of the Donjon

The donjon stands 42 metres high and features four main rooms: the hemispheric room, the “Treasury” room, the King’s bedroom, and the defense room.

Get ready to climb, as there are 162 steps to the top and a steep, winding staircase. But boy, it is worth it when you finally poke your head out of the little exit leading onto the roof.

Stone spiral staircase inside the Donjon Gilles Aycelin, showing the textured brick walls and a rope handrail for support.

As is typical of places like this in France, health and safety practicalities are nonexistent. You can more or less hang over the side of the barriers, and it’s quite a way down.

When you climb out, you will find a large sunken area with steps leading up to the central parapets from several different points. Be careful when climbing up these staircases, as they are lethal and very steep.

Aerial view from the top of the Donjon Gilles Aycelin, overlooking the city of Narbonne with its red-tiled roofs, a canal lined with trees, and a vast landscape under a bright blue sky.

The view is simply breathtaking. Everywhere you look, you see something different. It’s a full 360-degree panoramic view.

My favourite was the view of the cathedral, which was stunning. It was so close and framed so beautifully that I just stood there staring at it, unable to drag my eyes away.

A woman standing on a terrace of Donjon Gilles Aycelin, with the Narbonne Cathedral and a panoramic view of the city in the background.

Construction of the cathedral began in 1272 when Narbonne was a significant ecclesiastical and trade center in southern France. Sadly, it was never completed due to financial constraints.

It was designed to be one of the grandest in Europe, with ambitious plans for a towering nave and expansive choir. The choir was eventually finished in 1332, but not the rest.

Close-up view of Narbonne Cathedral with its towering spires, detailed stone arches, and medieval architecture set against a backdrop of blue sky and wispy clouds.

The 14th century was a tumultuous period in French history, marked by the Hundred Years’ War and the Black Death. These events diverted resources and attention away from the construction of the cathedral.

There was something very peaceful about standing up there far above the crowds below. At one point, I spotted hubby sitting there and couldn’t resist ringing him to say I could see him and was waving.

Bird's-eye view of Via Domitia from the Donjon in Narbonne, showing a patterned square with people walking and outdoor seating areas.

Archbishop Gilles Aycelin and the Palais Neuf

Gilles Aycelin was a prominent cleric and statesman who served as Archbishop of Narbonne from 1290 to 1311. He played a crucial role in the region’s political and religious life, and during his tenure, the donjon was constructed as a symbol of ecclesiastical power and protection.

The Palais Neuf, where the donjon is located, was an extension of the Archbishop’s palace, designed to accommodate the growing administrative and defensive needs of the church in Narbonne.

Statue of a crouching woman in the courtyard of the Palais Neuf, surrounded by historic stone buildings with arched doorways and windows.

The Palace Interior

As you would expect, it’s a grand building that befits the status of the man who ruled the roost. It’s open to the public, and entrance is included with your ticket to climb up the donjon.

You walk through a series of historically rich rooms reflecting architectural and decorative styles from the 14th to the 19th centuries. The large audience room features elaborately painted ceilings from the 17th century, and the apartments of the archbishop, also from the 17th century, provide a glimpse into the luxurious living quarters of the favoured few.

Elegant dining room with a long wooden table, ornate white walls with intricate moldings, large windows, and a chandelier hanging from the ceiling.

The Archbishops’ dining room, an 18th-century masterpiece, showcases the opulence of the period. And the large reception gallery from the 19th century highlights the evolution of architectural styles over the centuries, incorporating both Gothic and neo-classical elements.

The Museum of Fine Arts, also housed within the palace, showcases several art collections, including earthenware from the 17th and 18th centuries, European schools spanning the 16th and 19th centuries, and a section dedicated to orientalist paintings.

nterior of the Museum of Fine Arts in Narbonne, featuring a spacious gallery with wooden floors, green walls, and numerous framed paintings displayed under a skylight.

The Palace Exterior

The courtyard of the Palais des Archevêques, situated within the complex housing the Donjon Gilles Aycelin and the Palais Neuf, is the central hub connecting various parts of the palace complex. It’s filled with Gothic and Romanesque elements, reflecting the architectural evolution over the centuries.

The courtyard of the Palais des Archevêques featuring Gothic arches, stone walls, and a neatly arranged garden with blooming red flowers.

Adjacent to the courtyard is the Gothic cloister, a tranquil space with arches and columns.

Gothic cloister in Narbonne with arched stone ceilings, tall windows, and floor lanterns lining the walkway, showcasing the medieval architecture.

Historically, the courtyard would have been a bustling activity centre where administrative and clerical duties were performed. It was a vital part of the daily lives of the archbishops and their attendants.

Entrance to the Salle du Trésor at Narbonne Cathedral, marked by a red sign with the room's name and description of its 15th-century acoustic phenomenon.

How to Get There

Narbonne isn’t far from the stunning city of Carcassonne. Accessing the Donjon Gilles Aycelin is straightforward. It is situated next to the City Hall (L’Hotel de Ville) in Narbonne, but you need to turn immediately left and into the gift shop, where the entrance to the Donjon is hidden.

I was a little confused when I visited until I realised that the gift shop was where you purchased your ticket. Then, the person who served me ushered me behind her, where I could access the steps.

The site is open year-round, with varying hours depending on the season. For instance, during peak months from June to September, it is open daily from 10:00 to 18:00. Entrance fees start at €8 for a full adult ticket, but combined tickets are available that include other local attractions, enhancing the value of your visit.

For more detailed information and updates, you can visit the official tourism site for Narbonne. And if you visit Narbonne don’t forget to check out the famous Narbonne market.

Donjon Gilles Aycelin, the Jewel in Narbonne’s Crown