How To Drink Pastis. The French Ritual Behind That Cloudy Yellow Drink

It’s golden, it smells like licorice, and it turns cloudy when you add water. Pastis is one of those drinks that instantly tells you you’re in France. It’s the drink you see in those old tabacs where a French man sits at the bar on his stool, or at least that’s my experience.

Learning how to drink Pastis is a rite of passage if you live in France! And one of the things I love about living in France is discovering the culture, traditions, and quirky little things that are so quintessentially French.

But here’s the thing: it’s not just a drink. It’s a ritual. There’s a specific way to pour, dilute, and drink it. It’s strong, herbal, and unmistakably aniseed. Not to everyone’s taste, but to those who love it, there’s nothing more French.

Here’s how to drink pastis the right way, whether you’re in Marseille, Paris, or your own backyard.

Listen to a Podcast Episode About Pastis

The first time I came across this aniseed drink was in a local bar in Verteuil, near where I live in the Charente.

I was intrigued because it seemed to be quite popular with the French.

So I asked the barman to tell me more, and he promptly gave me a potted history and, of course, told me to try some.

Absinthe vs. Pastis

Before we start learning how to drink pastis, it’s handy to know the difference between Absinthe and Pastis, both popular aniseed-flavored drinks in France.

In fact, go into any French supermarket, and you’ll see entire aisles dedicated to these two drinks.

• Ingredients: Both absinthe and pastis are anise-flavored spirits, but absinthe is distinguished by its use of wormwood, which imparts a bitter edge and is said to be responsible for its psychoactive properties.
• Preparation: Absinthe is traditionally prepared with a ritual involving a special slotted spoon, a sugar cube, and cold water dripping slowly to dilute the spirit and release its flavors. Pastis, on the other hand, is simply mixed with water according to taste.
• Alcohol Content: Absinthe typically boasts a higher alcohol content, ranging from 45% to 74% ABV, compared to pastis, which usually contains about 40% to 45% ABV.
• Legal Status: The production and sale of absinthe have been re-legalised in many countries since the 1990s, following evidence that it was no more harmful than any other spirit. Pastis was developed as a legal alternative during the absinthe ban era.

The History of Pastis and Absinthe

Absinthe, often dubbed “The Green Fairy,” originated in the late 18th century in the Val-de-Travers region of Switzerland. It was initially concocted by Dr. Pierre Ordinaire, a French doctor seeking a medicinal elixir.

Dr. Ordinaire’s recipe, a distillation of local herbs including the key ingredient, wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), anise, fennel, and other botanicals, was believed to cure various ailments.

The recipe was later acquired by Major Dubied, who along with his son-in-law Henri-Louis Pernod, opened the first absinthe distillery in Couvet, Switzerland, in 1797.

By 1805, Henri-Louis Pernod had expanded into France, establishing a second distillery in Pontarlier, marking the birth of absinthe as a commercial product.

The Absinthe Rise to Fame and Controversy

Absinthe became immensely popular in France throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, especially among artists and writers who attributed their creativity to its psychoactive effects.

The spirit was renowned for its high alcohol content and was believed to induce a unique state of clarity and inspiration, unlike any other alcoholic beverage.
However, absinthe’s rise was met with controversy.

It was blamed for social problems and alleged to cause a condition known as “absinthism,” characterized by addiction, seizures, and hallucinations, attributed to thujone, a compound found in wormwood.

This led to widespread moral panic, culminating in the 1912 and 1915 bans on absinthe in the United States and France.

Where was Pastis invented?

It all started in the early 19th century in Marseille, southern France, when absinthe was the drink of the moment. However, due to its high alcohol content, the French government perceived it as dangerous.

Apparently, the wormwood used in the drink caused hallucinations and possible madness. So, in 1915, they banned it.

In their wisdom, they also banned any alcoholic drink of 16% or above.

This ban paved the way for pastis. With absinthe now banned, the people of Marseilles looked for an alternative aniseed apéritif.

They started mixing their own using a variety of aromatic plants, anise, and licorice.

The Birth of Ricard Pastis

The word “pastis” is derived from the Provençal word for “mixture,” and pastis is essentially a mixture of anise and other herbs and spices.

In 1920, the government lifted the ban, but only for aniseed-based alcoholic drinks. And no more than 30% proof.

At this time, a local Marseille man, Paul Ricard, developed his own version of pastis.

He named the drink after himself and started to market it, which was an immediate success.

Although, it was strictly speaking illegal as it was 40% rather than the legalized 30%.

So when the government relaxed the rules again and allowed alcoholic content of up to 45%, Ricard raised his accordingly.

Today, it’s known as “Ricard, the real Pastis de Marseille”.

What is Pastis, and how is it made?

There are many different recipes, each a closely guarded secret. But each one has two essential ingredients: licorice and anise.

The process of making pastis involves a combination of maceration and distillation. Other herbs and spices, such as fennel, coriander, cloves, and cardamom, can also be added to the mixture.

The mixture is then distilled, and the resulting liqueur is aged in oak barrels for several months before bottling.

How to drink Pastis like the French

Pastis is typically served in a tall glass accompanied by a jug of water and a side order of ice.

This is done so people can mix their own drink according to how they like it. In fact, it’s almost become a bit of a ritual amongst the French.

However, the steps are clear. First, the pastis is poured into a glass, then the water, and finally, the ice.

As the water is added, it turns from a clear amber color to a cloudy, milky hue.

The ratio of water to pastis can vary, but the most common ratio is one part pastis to five parts water.

The whole experience is wonderful, and if you love aniseed and licorice as much as I do, you’ll love this drink.

When to drink Pastis

Pastis is usually served as an apéritif, a French tradition of enjoying a light alcoholic drink before a meal.

Apparently, it helps to stimulate the appetite and prepares the stomach for a meal. And certainly, in the South of France, they’d never drink it after a meal.

Pétanque, a French game similar to boules, is often played with a glass of pastis in hand. It is not uncommon for players to take a sip before each throw.

Edith Piaf was reportedly very fond of the drink, and Ernest Hemingway is said to have created the cocktail “Death in the Afternoon” by adding pastis to his champagne.

Popular brands of Pastis

The main producer in France is Pernod-Ricard which was a merger of two competing companies in 1975. And their best-known brands are Pernod 51 and, of course, Ricard.

If you prefer slightly sweeter drinks, you will likely prefer Ricard due to the higher licorice content.

Pernod tends to be dryer, as its flavor comes from fennel and star anise. Other brands include Henri Bardouin, Casanis, and Duval.

The Pastis 51

One of the most popular and simple ways to enjoy pastis is in a cocktail known as the “Pastis 51”, named after Pernod’s own brand, but you can use any brand of pastis you like.

Ingredients:

• 2 oz (60 ml) pastis
• 4 oz (120 ml) cold water
• 1/2 oz (15 ml) grenadine syrup
• Ice cubes

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Glass: Fill a highball glass with ice cubes to keep the drink chilled.
2. Add Pastis: Pour 2 oz of pastis over the ice. The pastis will cloud up as it interacts with the cold, which is part of the drink’s visual appeal.
3. Dilute with Water: Slowly add 4 oz of cold water to the glass. The water further dilutes the pastis and enhances its flavors, making it more palatable and refreshing.
4. Add a Dash of Sweetness: Carefully pour 1/2 oz of grenadine into the glass. The grenadine will sink to the bottom, creating a beautiful gradient effect from red at the bottom to the milky white of the pastis on top.
5. Gently Stir: Before drinking, gently stir the cocktail to blend the grenadine with the rest of the mix. This will give the drink a uniform sweet taste that complements the anise flavour.

FAQS: Pastis, the National Drink of France

Final thoughts: How to drink Pastis

Love it or hate it, you really should know how to drink Pastis, if only to serve it to your French guests as an aperitif.

And if you love aniseed the village where the movie Chocolat was filmed, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, makes anis pastels. Now known around France they continue to be popular.

There are so many wonderful French traditions, from the unbelievable number of food festivals to the use of the word ‘Bonjour’.

Some of the biggest food festivals include the Menton Lemon Festival and the Fête de la Truffe (truffle festival) in the medieval town of Sarlat.

But for now, I hope you’ll now be brave enough to try a pastis. So, bottoms up! Tchin Tchin! Santé!