The Night Market in France | Le Marché Nocturne

If you’ve never been to a night market in France, le marché nocturne, you’re missing out.

Living in rural France, you can’t help but notice the winter hibernation that happens. You can go for a walk and not see a single soul, and you’d be forgiven for thinking that nobody lived behind those tightly closed shutters you see on nearly every house. 

But in the summer, it’s a different story.

The little villages awaken from their winter slumber, and life is lived outside. Families eat together al fresco late into the evening, wine is drunk, and soirees are a permanent fixture in the social calendar.

We know the French love their weekly markets, but the night markets in France have a joie de vivre that’s infectious.

Listen to my podcast episode about French markets

What is a night market in France?

Going to a night market in France is about so much more than getting your groceries and local produce. It’s a fun event bringing a community together to celebrate good food, wine and music.

Depending on where you go, you’ll find them in the square in front of the Marie or a field somewhere on the outskirts of a village.

Most night markets in France all follow a similar format with local “producteurs” selling all sorts of things, from regional food dishes to jewellery. 

There’s usually music of some kind and often dancing, but one thing that never changes is the atmosphere.

The carefree sound of people laughing, chatting and enjoying eating and drinking together is just so quintessentially French.

It’s dining en masse. Wooden tables and benches are set up ready, you nab yourself a place to sit, and that’s your spot for the evening. You’ll find you quickly make friends with those around you, and it’s a great way to improve your French.

Get to the night market early to save your spot!

Word to the wise, it’s best to get there early if you want to get a good seat. The French come with their whole family, and in some cases, spread their tablecloth over part of their table to stake their claim early in the day.

These events are popular and very well attended.

One night market I went to a couple of years ago had a local band providing the musical entertainment, and when they played ‘The Madison’, an old line-dancing song, the seats that had just been occupied, suddenly emptied.

Everyone, young and old, got up and started dancing. They all seemed to know the steps and moved as a whole. It was quite something to see and so much fun.

What time do night markets start in France?

Most night markets will start at around 6 pm and go on until the early hours of the morning.

And why not? The summer in France is usually good, and being outside in the evening till late makes up for being inside over the winter months.

The further south you go, the more night markets you find, as those lovely warm balmy evenings we enjoy are plentiful.

What is sold at a night market in France?

Whilst the night markets aren’t just about food, it’s definitely the main attraction. For example, here in the Charente, you’ll find stalls selling the local Pineau and Buche de Chevre, a regional goat’s cheese. 

There are always stalls selling beer and wine and usually a stall cooking meat in a BBQ style. And you’ll always find someone selling frites (French chips).

Depending on how big the market is, you might find stalls selling things like vintage clothes, paintings, jewellery, pottery, books etc.

Do you need to take cash to the night market?

Yes. Most stallholders will only take cash. You might find the odd one with a card machine, but it’s unusual, so make sure you go to the ATM beforehand.

A fun night market in Verteuil in the Charente

One of my favourite night markets to go to is the one held in Verteuil in the Charente, about twenty minutes from where I live.

The commune sets up row after row of wooden tables and benches in a field just as you come into the village. 

The string lights from the trees which gives it such a lovely feel and there is a variety of food and artisan stalls on the perimeter. 

The local ukelele band usually provide the music. And before you ask, yes, that’s a thing in Vertueil. I know many of the members, and they started it as a fun thing to do in the winter when nothing else is going on, and it’s now going strong.

They keep us entertained for nearly two hours, singing and playing cover songs.

We normally take our dog Lottie, and she has a great time with the smells coming from the various food stalls, not to mention all the other doggie friends she makes. That’s another great thing about the French night markets, they’re dog friendly.

Top tips for successfully navigating a French night market

Tip 1 – Come Prepared

First things first, you need to bring glassware, cutlery and plates as these aren’t provided at the stalls. We have a great picnic backpack for this type of thing, and we replace the plastic glasses we use for picnics with nice glass ones. 

I do love to drink my wine out of a proper glass. And on that note, we nearly always bring a bottle with us. That way, I’m guaranteed to drink wine I really enjoy. 

The backpack has a wine bottle holder you can pop an iceblock in to keep it cool.

If you go to the beer stall, they’ll serve it in a plastic cup, and if you take it back, you get  €1 back.

Tip 2 – Guard your table

Put someone on table duty. Getting a spot on a table isn’t easy, as the French send their kids out early to save a seat. They’ll put tablecloths on their chosen spot and load them up with plates and glasses. 

The kids then stand guard over the spot whilst the parents go to get the food.

Tip 3 – Walk around before buying

Next, I’d recommend doing a full walk round of all the stalls first to see what food catches your eye.

At most night markets I’ve been to there is always a salad stall, one selling frites and another with a variety of meat.

In Verteuil, they were selling steaks in packs of two. You paid for the meat, handed it over to the guy who stood behind the BBQ, and he cooked it for you.

The key, if you want to eat salad, meat, and chips together, is to divide and conquer. One of you does meat, another does salad and another fries. Hopefully, the timing of everything should then work.

Where to find your nearest night market in France

More often than not, your local village website will list the events happening over the summer. However, not every village has a commune website, so I use the Marchés de Producteurs de Pays website, type in the postcode of the place I’m in, and it will give you a list of all the markets.

Final Thoughts: The Night Market in France

Going to a night market in France is something to add to your list of ‘Things to do in France‘ as it is such a great experience. 

I love taking guests as it gives them a real taste of life in rural France.

Pretty much anything goes, and as long as you remember to take some cash and something to eat off and drink out of, you’ll have a fabulous time.