Royan France: The BEST Things to See and Do

Last updated on May 7th, 2024 at 09:12 am

Royan France, the hidden gem on the Atlantic Coast

I’ve lived in France for over seven years now, and I can’t believe it’s taken me that long to get to Royan. And it really shouldn’t have done as it’s less than a two-hour drive from where I live.

So many of our friends, both French and English, had told us what a lovely place it is, but all of them had the same word of warning. 

Don’t visit in the summer months as it is rammed with tourists.

So, as January is hubby’s birthday, and there is nothing to do where we live in the Charente in the winter, I booked a weekend away for us in beautiful Royan.

The question is, was it worth the trip, and do I rate the coastal town of Royan?

Let’s dive in and find out.

Where is Royan?

Royan is in the Charente Maritime, department 17, in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region of Southwest France.

It sits on the Atlantic coast, not far from the harbourside town of La Rochelle to the Northeast and the Roman town of Sainte to the Southeast.

Is Royan worth visiting?

Absolutely, yes! Royan is definitely worth visiting, especially if you go out of high season. From the beaches and coastal walks to the architecture, restaurants and market, Royan is up there on my ‘must visit again’ list.

The Weather in Royan France

Royan has an oceanic climate that brings mild temperatures and moderate rainfall throughout the year. 

When we went, it was mid-January, and we had lovely weather, so much so we were able to sit outside in the sun with a glass of wine. Mind you, it was nippy out of the sun, but the sky was completely blue.

• Summer (June to August): Summers are generally warm and pleasant, with temperatures ranging from 20°C to 25°C (68°F to 77°F). 
• Autumn (September to November): The autumn months see cooler temperatures, ranging from 11°C to 20°C (52°F to 68°F). 
• Winter (December to February): Winters are mild compared to other regions of France. Temperatures usually hover around 5°C to 10°C (41°F to 50°F). 
• Spring (March to May): Spring sees a gradual warming with temperatures typically between 10°C and 17°C (50°F to 63°F). 

Things to do in a weekend in Royan

I could have easily spent a week in Royan as there is plenty to see and do. What I hadn’t realised until I went was that most of Royan was destroyed in the Second World War.

Royan was an occupied Nazi town along with the nearby areas of La Rochelle and Bordeaux. These strategic locations were important for the Germans due to their access to the Atlantic.

In an effort to dislodge the remaining German forces, Royan was subjected to severe bombardment by Allied forces. The most destructive of these bombings occurred on January 5, 1945. 

This attack was part of a larger operation to liberate the area and was carried out primarily by the French with assistance from the Royal Air Force.

No 1 Walk along the Atlantic Coast

On our first day in Royan, it was a stunning winter’s day. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky, the sun was out, and it was one of those lovely crisp cold days.

Having explored briefly on our arrival, we knew we could come straight out of our hotel and walk along by the sea to get into the centre of Royan. 

It’s a short but stunning walk, and once you get into Royan, you’ll see the convention centre, The Palais des Congrès in Royan, on your left. 

It was part of the post-war rebuild of Royan, and no less than four architects were involved. It stands out because of its cubic concrete structure with a huge big welcome to Royan sign.

From there, we were able to continue our walk on the sand close to the water, which was lovely. We ended up walking for 6km until we came to Plage Saint-Georges-de-Didonne.

It’s a stunning resort that is overrun with tourists during the summer season, reaching up to 50,000 people compared to its usual population of around 5,342 inhabitants.

But there is more to it than that. It’s also one of the major locations of the Atlantic Wall, a vast system of fortifications built by the Nazis between 1942 and 1944. It was designed to fortify the coast against a possible Allied invasion. 

The Royan Atlantique Agglomeration Community, which includes Saint Georges de Didonne, was one of the regions where these fortifications were constructed. Even now, about 280 structures along a 30-kilometre stretch of coast stand as reminders of this period.

In the area around Plage Saint Georges de Didonne, particularly at the Point of Suzac, you can still see remnants of the Atlantic Wall, such as blockhouses and other military fortifications.

These structures were part of a defensive line that extended along the Atlantic coast, intending to prevent an Allied landing.

It was quite a walk but pretty deserted due to it being January, and we almost had the beach to ourselves, which was lovely.

On the Sunday, we went in the opposite direction and walked into Pontaillac. It was another lovely day, and our walk took us past some lovely Belle Epoque villas with uninterrupted views of the ocean.

It’s one of the few areas spared by the war’s destruction, and you can find around 250 seaside villas that survived the bombings.

Pontaillac is a lovely place with lots of restaurants, cafes, bars, and even a casino. The beach, Plage de Pontaillac, is where the watersports happen in the warmer months, with yachting and paddle boarding being two favourites.

It’s also the perfect place to watch the sunset with a view of the Cordouan lighthouse.

We found ourselves a little cafe to enjoy a coffee and sat outside watching the tide come in, and it was simply lovely. For January, it was unseasonably warm, so we made the most of being in the fresh air, finishing off with a glass of rose.

No 2 Wander around Royan Marina and Fishing Port

The Royan Marina is opposite the convention centre with an impressive array of expensive looking boats and yachts. I always love to imagine which one would be mine, if I ever had the money, of course.

It apparently can hold over a thousand boats, with the capacity for boats up to twenty-five metres in length. 

The port plays an essential role in the local fishing industry, with sole and bass being the most common.

It was pretty quiet when we were there, but one of the fresh fish restaurants was getting ready to open, and the smell made my stomach start rumbling, it was so good.

No 3 Church of Notre-Dame de Royan

Before we came to Royan, a friend had told me about a great little App to help you discover the history of a town called Tèrra Aventura.

We downloaded it before we came and decided to do the one called ‘Back to the Fifties’.

As part of the tour, we were sent to see the Church of Notre-Dame de Royan, and I’m glad we were as it is quite a building.

It’s an imposing concrete structure that stands high above everything else in Royan, but unlike most churches or cathedrals I’ve seen in France, it’s really rather ugly from the outside.

It was built between 1955 and 1958 in the aftermath of World War II, which destroyed the old neo-Gothic sanctuary dating from 1874. The decision to use concrete for the church’s construction was influenced by the need for rapid rebuilding after the war and the material’s availability and cost-effectiveness. 

It was built using V-shaped prestressed reinforced concrete elements (known as the Laffaille system) with huge glass canopies covering 500 m2. The roof, shaped like a “horse saddle,” has a thickness of only 6 centimetres, which was considered a feat for the time.

The inside takes your breath away. Unfortunately, the pictures I took don’t do it justice. It almost has the feel of a multi-story car park, and as you walk in, the cold air hits you, and you can see your breath.

It’s a concrete masterpiece with parabolic vaults reaching 36 metres at the extremities and 28 metres in the centre. 

Even the organ is impressive with 47 stops, 3 manuals, and more than 3,600 pipes, and was classified as a Historic Monument in 2004.

The building was classified as a historical monument in 1988 and labelled “Monument of the 20th Century” in 2004.

No 4 Marché Central de Royan (The Market)

In 2018, the Royan market was voted the 2nd most beautiful market in France in the competition hosted by TV channel TF1, Votre plus beau Marché.

During our trip, you couldn’t access all of the market, as it was being renovated. But it is possibly one of the biggest markets I’ve been to in France.

Built in 1955, it’s often likened to an upside-down shell or a parachute and was the first free-form concrete structure in the world. The thin pleated concrete veil, only about 10 centimetres thick, sits on 13 anchoring points, creating a huge interior without any pillars.

Inside the market, there are approximately 80 food stalls, including butchers, delicatessens, cheese counters, fishmongers, oyster farmers, poultry farmers, and wine merchants. 

The fish and seafood from the Royan auction are particularly famous, along with a variety of seasonal fruits, vegetables, and other local products.

Outside, you’ll find even more stalls, including florists and stands selling clothing, jewellery, honey and spices.

And the smell coming from the rotisseries made your mouth water.

No 5 Discover the Architecture

Due to being destroyed in 1945, Royan was completely rebuilt in the 50s, and that style is still prominent today. It’s a wonderful mix of Belle Epoque Villas, colourful buildings and 50s architecture.

The rebuild lasted almost 20 years, and this period saw the introduction of architectural modernism, infused with Charentais academicism and influences from Brazil, creating a unique vertical landscape in this seaside resort.

The 50’s style architecture is easy to spot with buildings such as the Protestant temple, Villa Ombre Blanche, and Villa Hélianthe, all listed as Historic Monuments.

The style is characterised by its use of concrete, rounded lines, and a sense of lightness achieved through the use of pilings and spiral staircases without railings. 

Colour also plays a significant role, with buildings featuring roof terraces, loggias, or awnings adorned with elements designed to create a play of shadow and light.

Although many Belle Époque and Roaring Twenties buildings were destroyed during the bombings of 1945, some elements have been preserved, such as the former Jules-Ferry school (1907) and the Émile Zola College (1904).

No 6 Musée de Royan

The Musée de Royan is located in an old market building and offers a fascinating journey through the city’s rich past. It includes an archaeological collection that showcases Royan’s evolution from the Gallo-Roman era to the 17th century. It covers the city’s origins, the impact of the Reformation, and the significance of the Protestant community in Saintonge.

Another section is dedicated to the development of seaside tourism in the 19th Century and then, of course, the years of the war, the German occupation, the Resistance movement, the “pocket of Royan,” and the tragic bombings of 1945.

The biggest drawcard is the Pablo Picasso section. Royan was home to the famous Andalusian artist for a year at the start of the war. He arrived on the eve of the declaration of WW2 on September 2nd, 1939 and created over 750 works while residing in Royan. 

Eating out in Royan

No 1 Le Fâ Restaurant

On our first night, we ate at our Le Fâ, the restaurant that was part of our hotel, Thalazur Royan, and the food was superb. 

We had a cocktail at the bar first, which is really modern with copper-style circular hangings everywhere. Then we went in for dinner. 

We both had the Magret de Canard, breast of duck, which was beautifully cooked with pistachios and followed with one of my favourite desserts, Café Gourmand.

The breakfast we had was excellent too, with a really big selection of pastries, cheese, cold meats, fruit, yoghurts, and cereals, all the usual things you’d expect from a good continental breakfast.

📍 6, Allée des Rochers | 🌐 Hotel Website

No 2 L’Atelier Royan

A restaurant we tried for lunch was L’Atelier Royan, set just back from the promenade. It’s a lovely up-market style bistro, with a good menu and a fab wine selection. I can vouch for the moules frite and hubby for the burger. We shared some profiteroles for dessert, and they were huge.

I don’t like profiteroles in England because they do them with squirty-style cream, which I hate. But in France, they do them with vanilla ice cream, and they’re seriously yummy, although too big for one person.

📍73 Bd de la République | 🌐 TripAdvisor Review

No 3 BB Snack

One of the best meals I had in Royan was Sunday lunch in Pontaillac at a gorgeous little Italian restaurant called BB Snack.

It was packed, with not a table to be had, and we strolled in at 2 pm, a big no-no in France if you expect to get served. Not only did they not turn us away the minute we walked in, but they found us a table, sat us at the tiny bar and served us both a glass of wine.

We only had one course, but my mushroom risotto was quite possibly, the best I’ve ever had. It literally melted in your mouth. There were a variety of mushrooms topped with crispy bacon, parmesan and rocket. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

📍209B Avenue de Pontaillac | 🌐 TripAdvisor Review

Hotels in Royan France