Rue Crémieux, the Prettiest Street in Paris

There is no shortage of beautiful streets in Paris, some with views of the Eiffel Tower, others lined with Parisian cafes, and, of course, there are plenty of wide boulevards with Haussman buildings on either side. 

A Google search will bring up a list of at least fifty streets in Paris, all claiming to be the most beautiful, but then there is rue Crémieux. This residential street could have you fooled into thinking you were on Portobello Road in Nottinghill, London. But no, you’re in the 12th arrondissement of Paris. 

Possibly the most colorful street in the city, rue Crémieux is a stone’s throw from Gare de Lyon, is comprised of just 35 houses, and is only 144 meters long. It holds the title of the most Instagrammed street in the city, so much so that the street has its own Instagram account, Club Crémieux, which gently mocks those who don’t respect its residents.

Where is Rue Crémieux

This stunning cobblestone street with pastel-colored buildings is a short walk from Gare de Lyon. The nearest metro station is Quai de la Râpée (line 5). It sits between Rue de Lyon and Rue de Bercy and is more reminiscent of the colored houses in the south of France, in places like Menton or Villefranche, than a typical Parisian street.

The History of Rue Crémieux

Like many streets in Paris, rue Crémieux had several different names before settling on its current one, and it wasn’t always a street. It began as a 1500-seater public arena for open-air shows and entertainment, such as Arènes Nationales, and was later renamed Arènes impériales. 

It was designed by architect Ernest Hoschedé in 1851 with entry on the Place de la Bastille. It was initially an extension of the popular Hippodrome, sharing its troupe and alternating performances with the Hippodrome’s main venue at Place de l’Étoile. 

It was similar to a bullfighting arena and captivated audiences with breathtaking entertainment displays, but it was unfortunately short-lived.

In 1854, French journalist and banker Moïse Polydore Millaud created the Compagnie générale immobilière to purchase land in Paris, which made him a small fortune. From that land, rue Crémieux was built in 1865, although, at that time, it was called Avenue Millaud.

The 35 buildings on the street were part of a housing estate, homes for the wealthy workers of the area. They followed the standard format of a kitchen in the basement and two further floors with a total of six rooms.

Renamed rue Crémieux in 1897 in honor of Isaac Moïse, better known as Adolphe Crémieux, a French lawyer and politician who served in the provisional government of 1848. Crémieux became especially well-known for his 1870 decree, which, on October 24, granted French citizenship to 37,000 Jews living in Algeria. 

During the Great Flood of Paris in 1910, the water levels in the streets rose to 1.75 meters, and at no. 8 rue Crémieux, there is a small plaque commemorating the event. The city was flooded for two months, and people evacuated their homes as the Seine had reached eight meters over its usual height.

The Transformation of Rue Crémieux to a Rainbow-Colored Street

It wasn’t until 1993 that the residents of the street requested that the whole street be pedestrianized, and the buildings changed their colors. When the Paris City Hall granted their request, it asked that the owners of each house renovate the exteriors. The residents got together and opted for a more colorful approach to breathe new life into their street.

That’s how the gentle pastel colors of green at #21, blue at #22, purple at #23, and yellow at #24 came about. From there, it became a riot of color that accounted for every shade in the rainbow and beyond.

Every building is different and quirky. Some now have signs requesting you respect their privacy and refrain from taking photos. Others, such as #28, have a fabulous mural of a ginger cat doing what cats do and chasing birds. 

Or at #21, the green-painted house, there is the trompe-l’oeil showcasing a creeping vine.

Lovely, colorful flower pots line the streets, adding to the beauty, and it’s hard to believe you are in the metropolis that is Paris.

A quick note on French Street Names

Many people have emailed me and told me off for not capitalizing the word “rue.” In France, the word for street or road isn’t capitalized unless, of course, it’s at the start of a sentence. You’ll notice in my headings I have capitalized it, and that’s simply because I follow the Associated Press format of writing, and this dictates it to be capitalized.

I love the French language as there are so many little nuances that people don’t realize until they start to learn, and this is just one of them. It’s the same with months and days of the week. I found this article that explains other words that do this, too.

Things To Do Near Rue Crémieux

I wouldn’t suggest making a special trip to see rue Crémieux, but a few other places make it worthwhile heading out to the 12th.

Gare de Lyon

This station is an homage to art nouveau decor. Built for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, it’s one of Paris’s busiest train stations. The main hall has lovely high ceilings, ornate arches, and sweeping windows that flood the space with natural light. Similar to Big Ben in London, the clock tower soars up to 67 meters and can be seen for miles around.

The four faces are over six meters in diameter, each with intricately designed hands and Roman numerals that light up at night, casting a soft glow across the square.

Le Train Bleu

Inside Garde de Lyon is one of the best and oldest restaurants I’ve eaten at in Paris, Le Train Bleu. It’s a stunning example of Belle Époque opulence. Opened in 1901, it was designed to captivate visitors of the Exposition Universelle with its grand murals, gilded ceilings, and intricate chandeliers. Dining here feels like stepping into another era—rich velvet seats, polished wood accents, and panoramic frescoes evoke the glamor of early 20th-century train travel. 

It’s the gateway to the French Riviera, as many of the trains from this station head to the south of France.

Jardin des Plantes

Jardin des Plantes is Paris’s lush botanical garden, a serene escape in the heart of the city. Founded in 1635 as a medicinal herb garden, it has grown into a sprawling 28-hectare space featuring thousands of plant species, flowerbeds, and themed gardens, like the rose and alpine gardens. 

Highlights include the Grande Galerie de l’Évolution, showcasing biodiversity, and the greenhouses filled with exotic plants.

Please Remember…

This is a quick reminder before I sign off. Rue Crémieux is a residential street without shops or cafes, so please be respectful. People live here and don’t wish to have their homes and property photographed constantly.

While a quick picture is fine, sitting on people’s doorsteps, parading up and down the street in different outfits, and taking hundreds of photos isn’t. Think how you’d feel if this was your street. Be mindful and respectful, and don’t be noisy; remember your manners. 

This article in Le Parisien highlights how the residents feel when they are inundated with tourists.