Rue de L’Abreuvoir: Step Into the Pages of Montmartre’s History Book

The streets of Paris were made for walking, especially those on top of the hill in Montmartre. One street, in particular, has been featured on numerous Instagram feeds and most recently appeared in the TV show Emily in Paris. Rue de L’Abreuvoir, with its view of the Sacre Coeur, is a pretty cobblestone street in the heart of the village.

So, if it’s quaint and picturesque you’re after, that’s exactly what you’ll get if you wander up and down this street. But there’s more to rue de L’Abreuvoir than how pretty it is. Let’s take a trip into the pages of Montmartre’s history book and discover the hidden gems and stories behind the buildings lining one of the prettiest streets in Montmartre.

The History of Rue de L’Abreuvoir

Rue de L’Abreuvoir is not only one of the prettiest streets in Paris but also one of the oldest. Originally mentioned in records from 1325, the street was known as “ruelle qui va au But,” which roughly translates to “the road that goes to the end.” This name hints that it was probably a pathway leading to a significant destination, maybe related to the area’s natural springs or watering places used by livestock.

In 1672, Albert Jouvin de Rochefort featured it on a map, but by 1843, its name had changed to the one it has today. Its name translates to “watering place” and was derived from the French word “abreuvoir,” reflecting the street’s connection to a watering trough that was a central point for the neighborhood’s animals and probably also for residents.

As time passed, it became a silent witness to Montmartre’s bohemian life, playing host to artists, writers, and musicians who found inspiration in its picturesque environment. 

The Things You Won’t Want to Miss

There are many things to see and do in Montmartre, but there are a few things you shouldn’t miss on this street—a couple are well-known, but the others are less so.

La Maison Rose

First on the list is La Maison Rose, the pretty little pink building on the corner featured in nearly every article about Montmartre. The house was purchased in 1905 by Catalan painter Ramon Pichot, who used it as a painting studio where he entertained the likes of Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso. 

In 1908, Ramon married Germaine Gargallo, a well-known figure in Montmartre and muse for many of the painters and artists. After a trip to Spain, Germaine decided to paint that house pink, influenced by what she’d seen on her trip, and opened La Maison Rose. 

There isn’t much in the history books of what happened after Germaine opened until it was purchased in 1948 by Beatrice Miolano, an Italian who ran it with his son Jean Milano. It’s thought that it might have been a cabaret venue.

It was rented out to different people throughout the next few decades and became a popular spot for performers of the Montmartre and Pigalle cabarets. It was a favorite of the famous singer Dalida, who we’ll talk about more in a minute.

In 2017, it reopened with a new team headed up by the granddaughter of Beatrice Milano. They’re staying true to their Italian and French roots with French farm-to-table cuisine. If you want to bag one of the popular tables outside, you’ll need to make a reservation, as it’s hugely popular.

Place Dalida

Dalida was a French-Egyptian singer and actress who achieved celebrity status in Europe from the 1950s until she died in 1987. Born in Cairo as Iolanda Cristina Gigliotti, she moved to Paris in 1954 to break into the entertainment industry and lived in Montmartre. Over her three-decade career, she sold over 140 million albums worldwide.

She lived in Montmartre, at 11 bis rue d’Orchampt, just a short walk from Place Dalida. The square is at the crossroads of rue de l’Abreuvoir and rue Girardon. In December 1996, it was named Place Dalida by municipal decree and inaugurated in April 1997 with the unveiling of a bronze bust created by the sculptor Aslan.

Fans and tourists visit the bust of Dalida and touch the sculpture for good luck, particularly hoping for success in love. This practice has polished the bronze to a shine, especially noticeable on the bust’s chest.

The Old Watering Trough

Montmartre was not always a part of Paris; it was a rural village on a hill outside the city walls. L’Abreuvoir was the route that led to the village’s water supply on the intersection of rue Girardon and rue de l’Abreuvoir. 

The paved basin that was part of the old watering trough opposite Place Dalida is still there. You can just imagine the animals being led here to drink after a hard day working the fields. 

Historian Gérard de Nerval wrote about it in 1854 as part of a collection of works about Paris streets.

What attracted me above all in this small space sheltered by the large trees of the Château des Brouillards was (…) the proximity of the watering hole, which in the evening comes alive with the spectacle of horses and dogs being bathed there and a fountain built in the antique style, where the washerwomen chat and sing as in one of the first chapters of Werther.

Walks and Memories – Gérard de Nerval 

No 15, the Only Odd Number On the Street

In 1867, a decree was issued to widen the street so that larger buildings could line either side. However, this didn’t happen, and the street remained the same. Unfortunately, the water trough wasn’t so lucky and no longer exists. 

Instead, next to where it once sat is Villa du Radet, at 15 rue de l’Abreuvoir, the only odd number on the street. Its name comes from the mill of the same name, which was moved to the corner of Girardon and Lepic and wrongly renamed Moulin de la Galette.

No 4, Home to Commander Henry Lachouque

At No, rue de l’Abreuvoir is a fascinating house that once belonged to Commander Henry Lachouque, a historian of the First Empire. It’s a lovely half-timbered building with an old sundial engraved with the year the house was built, 1924. The inscription is a motto that reads, “When you ring, I will sing.”

On either side of the entryway are two eagles sitting on stone columns, and above to the right, in a small carved niche, is a statue of the Virgin Mary. You’ll also see a plaque commemorating Lachouque’s life. It’s well worth taking a look.

The Emily in Paris Locations

Love it or hate it, Emily in Paris gives us some gorgeous views of Paris, and I watch it whenever I need to indulge in a little Paris time. Place Dalida is the scene of the bed photo shoot from Season 1, and Emily and Mindy are seen having a drink outside of La Maison Rose in Season 1, just in case you want to go on an Emily tour.

FAQs About Rue de L’Abreuvoir