Saint-Paul de Vence, a Stunning Hilltop Village in Southern France

Last updated on November 20th, 2024 at 10:54 am

If a village were ever going to make you fall in love, it would be Saint-Paul de Vence in the south of France. Words simply don’t do it justice. It’s history, romance, art, and culture all rolled up into one unbelievably beautiful package that you can’t help but unwrap.

I’m not often rendered speechless, but I couldn’t find words to describe how I felt as I reached the town after making the climb from the car park outside the walls. The steep and narrow cobblestone streets take your breath away, and the views are magnificent.

Of course, there is also the history surrounding this place. It’s the oldest walled city on the French Riviera, and most of its fortifications are still intact. Plus, it has an enviable relationship with the art world, specifically Picasso, Modigliani, Matisse, and, of course, Marc Chagall, who is buried there.

Where is Saint-Paul de Vence?

Saint-Paul de Vence is in the Alpes-Maritimes department in southeastern France, part of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. It’s roughly 20 kilometers from Nice between the coast and the Southern Alps.

But be warned, if you visit the town, it’s a no-go area for cars and bikes. The only way you’re allowed to drive up into the town is if you’re staying overnight. Even then, you must persuade the sentry on the gates to let you in. 

In all honesty, it’s not worth bothering, and you’re better off leaving your car in the car park just outside the gate, Espace Sainte-Claire. It’s easier, and you can take it all in as you walk up.

But remember to pack light because you won’t want to drag a suitcase up and around the steep streets. The best option is to use a rucksack and only take what you need.

Is Saint-Paul de Vence Worth Visiting?

Yes, Saint-Paul de Vence is most definitely worth visiting. However, word to the wise: Do not, and I repeat, do not, go in July or August. You won’t be able to move for tourists because it’s rammed. Luckily, I didn’t make this mistake, but friends of mine did, and they regretted it.

Going out of season means you can take your time to explore without the crowds and see for yourself what a remarkable place this is.

Like many of the villages of the Alpes-Maritimes, Saint-Paul de Vence sits on a rocky peak, with breathtaking views just a stone’s throw from the sea. You can’t help but love its twisty and windy cobblestone streets, quaint homes, historical buildings, and monumental ramparts. It’s truly a fairy-tale setting come to life. 

I thought I’d seen the most beautiful place when I went to Carcassonne, but, dare I say, Saint-Paul de Vence is even better. Yes, it’s just as touristy in its own way, but at night, the place empties, and you get to see the village behind the tourist screen, which doesn’t happen so much in Carcassonne.

A Potted History of Saint-Paul de Vence

We don’t know much about its very early history, as no records exist. However, people started settling there around the 10th and 11th centuries, making it one of the oldest medieval villages on the French Riviera. Native tribes previously occupied the area before the Roman conquest.

There was probably a castle built in the 12th century, but it wasn’t until 1388, when Nice separated from Provence to join Savoy, that it became a strategic stronghold due to its position on the border. 

With this power struggle going on, the town needed some protection, so ramparts were erected in the last part of the 14th century. Two original towers, Porte de Vence and the Tour de l’Esperon can still be seen.

In 1418, it became a “Royal Town” and was placed under the control of the King of France, making it important from a military and administrative standpoint. Then, between 1543 and 1547, after successive attacks by the troops of Charles V of Spain, who had already occupied the city once in 1524, the ramparts were strengthened and fortified under the command of Francois I and then Henri II. 

These improvements were designed by Jean de Saint-Rémy, a fortifications expert and artillery commander who knew a thing or two about building impregnable fortresses. 

In the 17th century, Saint-Paul de Vence underwent a religious and cultural renaissance sparked by the influential Bishop of Vence, Antoine Godeau. This era also saw significant contributions from Antoine Godeau, who was not only a religious figure but a founding member of the Académie Française. 

Grandiose mansions built by influential families like the Bernardis and the Alziarys appeared, featuring opulent Rococo frescoes, stucco work, and monumental fireplaces and staircases. 

The famed military engineer Vauban visited the town to inspect its ramparts in 1693 and again in 1700, ensuring the fortifications were up to the demands of the time.

Artists Descend Upon The Town

By the end of the 19th century, Saint-Paul de Vence had become an oasis of olive trees, grassy hills, and vines. The village’s beauty, the southern French light, and the countryside’s colors started attracting those with a creative eye.

By the 1920s, artists were setting up their easels to capture the beauty of the place, with Paul Signac, Raoul Dufy, and Chaïm Soutine leading the charge. A tram line opening in 1911 between Cagnes-sur-Mer and Vence opened things up even more.

Artists such as Picasso, Matisse, and Chagall were drawn to the place first for the amazing light in the region and secondly to hang out with Paul Roux, a painter and art collector. In the 1920s, he owned a café called “Chez Robinson,” which he and his wife later expanded. 

The café became an inn that soon became a gathering place for artists and was renamed La Colombe d’Or. The Roux family is still involved in its management, maintaining the tradition Paul Roux started nearly a century ago. 

It wasn’t just artists who flocked to the town; filmmakers, actors, and writers were also drawn in, and the town became a who’s who of the movie world. In 1949, two famous French movie stars, Yves Montand and Simone Signoret, met in Saint-Paul de Vence and married.

The “Golden Age” in Saint-Paul de Vence in the 50s and 60s attracted foreign stars to the Cannes Film Festival and, of course, the French Riviera. And in 1971, the bass guitar player for the Rolling Stones, Bill Wyman, took up residence and to my knowledge, still lives there.

Things To Do in Saint-Paul de Vence

The best way to see the village is to start at Porte de Vence, just off the main road. Park the car and walk up into the village. So we’ll start our tour there. As you walk up to the gate, you’ll pass Fragonard and l’Occitane, perfumery shops with perfume factories not far away in Grasse. 

A Map of Saint-Paul de Vence

The tourist board at Saint-Paul de Vence is excellent and offers tours of the town. Visit their website for more details.

You’ll walk past Paul Roux’s famous hotel, La Colombe d’Or, an old washhouse, and the Café de la Place. Straight ahead of you, you’ll see an old passageway with a canon, le canon Lacan, from the 16th century, still guarding the gate. The cannon is named after a gunner from Saint-Paul de Vence. He served under King François I and claimed this cannon as a trophy following the monarch’s triumph at Ceresole d’Alba in the Piedmont region of Italy in 1544.

TOP TIP: If you’re staying in Saint-Paul de Vence, the best time to explore is first thing in the morning or evening, as all the day trippers will have left to return to their accommodation. You’ll often have the place to yourself, which is really rather lovely.

The Ramparts

We’ve already looked at the history of the ramparts, but there is nothing like stepping into history and seeing it for yourself. So once you’re through the gate, you’ll turn right onto rue de la Cour, and at the end of the street, you’ll find the main street running along the length of the ramparts.

One thing I will say is that if you don’t have a head for heights, you might find the ramparts a bit much. There is no guard rail, and health and safety isn’t really a thing in these old towns and villages in France. The views are breathtaking, but be prepared for wobbly legs the higher you get.

If you want to take a breather, head to Place Neuve, which is close by and was originally known as Place de Marché. It has gorgeous views of the valley filled with olive trees, citrus trees, mimosas, and so much more. You’ll also get a good view of Tour à Machicoulis from here and see why it was home to the archers many years ago. It doesn’t get much better than that for a vantage point to fire arrows on any attackers.

The Cemetry

If you’re a Marc Chagall fan, you’ll probably want to pay homage at his grave in the Saint-Paul de Vence cemetery. It’s just outside the city walls at the village’s southern end where you’ll find another old gate and entry point, Porte de Nice.

Marc Chagall’s grave is well-marked, unlike the graveyard I visited in Paris, Pere Lachaise, where the famous graves were hard to find. It’s covered with little painted rocks, coins, and other bits and pieces.

More spectacular views await you here, and as I gazed out over the valley, I couldn’t imagine a more peaceful place to be laid to rest. It’s also home to the 14th-century Chapelle Saint-Michel, dedicated to Saint Michael and Saint George. 

Rue Grande

If you love bougainvillea plants, this is the place to come, as they grow wild all around the town. I have some at home and just love the vibrancy of the pink petals. They grow up the stone steps, over fences and gates, everywhere you look. It’s stunning.

Rue Grande is the main street running through Saint-Paul de Vence, connecting the two main gates and the one you’ll see in pictures with boutiques, art galleries, and beautifully preserved buildings. It’s surprisingly narrow, another reason to come out of season, so you aren’t constantly jostled.

Take your time to look at the buildings and the stairways, which invite you to walk up them to discover what lies at the top and the hidden alleyways waiting to surprise you. Some buildings have plaques telling you the date they were built, which I always find fascinating.

Place de La Grande Fontaine

This square has been a hive of activity since it was built in the 16th century. In the 17th century, the weekly market was held here; the villagers came to fetch water, and the washerwomen did their laundry in the washhouse. It was the scene of much local gossip and probably the busiest spot in the village.

As you can imagine, being set up on a hill brought its own challenges, such as getting water to the town’s inhabitants. Aqueducts were built, and some still exist. Once you get close to the town, you can see one, but it’s easy to miss. 

The Grande Fountain was built by Melchoir Martin in 1850 and is now the centerpiece of the square and is listed as a historic monument. Behind it, you’ll see the washhouse, or lavoir, as they called it in French.

The design and construction of lavoirs were influenced by the realization in the 18th century of the link between clean water and public health. This recognition led to their widespread installation across France, often funded by government grants to promote hygiene and prevent diseases.

They were also important social hubs, especially for women. They provided a space where women could gather, share news, and support one another, effectively becoming a big part of community life.

Place de l’Église

Place de l’Église has all sorts of hidden gems for you to find. The Marie (town hall) sits in the keep of the former château, and a clock and bell tower dating back to 1443, one of the oldest structures in the city, still chimes out the hour.

My guide told me there is an inscription on the bell, “Hora est jam de sommo suggere,” which apparently translates to “The hours invite us to dream.” I can’t think of anything more fitting for this pretty little town. She also told me that in 1984, Gene Wilder married Gilda Radner in the Town Hall, so Hollywood is still leaving its mark.

Just off the square on Montée de la Castre at number 2 is the house Simone Signoret shared with Yves Montand at the beginning of their love story. 

Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs

Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs was built in the 17th century and features the artwork of Jean-Michel Folon, a Belgian artist whose work was often dedicated to charity. In the case of this church, it makes a lot of sense as it was built to help the needy and poor. 

His murals are enormous, but the most impressive is a massive mosaic of over a million tiny pieces of stone portraying the village. The colors he’s used are what really make it, and you find it hard to tear yourself away.

There is a 4€ entry fee, or you can take a guided tour for 7€, which also includes access to the Musée d’Histoire Locale, a small museum about the town’s history.

Église Collégiale de la Conversion de Saint-Paul

Can you imagine something taking 400 years to build? Well, that’s how long it took to build the Église Collégiale, Collegiate Church. In 1666, the Bishop of Vence promoted it to a collegiate church, and in 1668, it received a newly designed pulpit and stalls befitting its new status.

For me, though, the star of the show is the baroque-style chapel containing relics from the catacombs in Rome.

Place des Ormeaux

Have you heard of pétanque? It’s a popular French lawn game in the boules sport family, closely related to Italian bocce and British bowls. The game traditionally involves metal balls and a small wooden ball called a cochonnet (literally “piglet”) or jack. 

It can be played on hard dirt or gravel and is often seen in public parks in France, particularly in the Provence region. You’ll also see it in Place des Ormeaux. It really is like stepping back in time by a few decades.

Also on the square is Paul Roux’s hotel, la Colombe d’Or, and you can imagine his clientele coming out into the square to play a game of pétanque. Apparently, artists traded their art for free room and board at the hotel. You can still see artwork by famous artists, including Picasso and Matisse, on the walls.

La Fondation Maeght

The Maeght Foundation is a museum and cultural center twenty-five minutes from Saint-Paul de Vence. It was established in 1964 by Marguerite and Aimé Maeght, art dealers and collectors, and designed by the Catalan architect Josep Lluís Sert. 

It was conceived as a living space for the arts, born from the couple’s personal tragedy of losing their son, Bernard, to leukemia, which inspired them to create a lasting artistic legacy. 

The Maeght Foundation quickly became prominent in the art world, attracting artists of the highest caliber who contributed to its collections and architectural design. 

Artists such as Joan Miró, Alberto Giacometti, Marc Chagall, and Georges Braque created sculptures, murals, and stained-glass windows. The layout has been designed to encourage fluid movement between indoor galleries and outdoor spaces, combining art with nature.

Its collections include over 12,000 pieces of art spanning paintings, sculptures, drawings, and graphic works from the 20th century to the present day. 

Where To Stay in Saint-Paul de Vence

LUXURY PICK: Hotel Le Saint Paul

If you’re looking for Provençal style accommodation in the heart of the village, this 5-star hotel is it – my two-night stay was AMAZING. 

Click here for rates and availability >>>

MID-RANGE PICK: Hotel Les Messugues

Overlooking the olive groves with an outdoor swimming pool close to the village and the famous Maeght Foundation. 

Click here for rates and availability >>>

B&B PICK: Villa St Maxime

An adult-only Maison d’Hôtes with great views, an outdoor pool, and within walking distance of the town. It is so much more than a hotel; it defines quiet luxury.

Click here for rates and availability >>>

How To Get to Saint-Paul de Vence

By Air: The nearest major airport to Saint-Paul de Vence is Nice Côte d’Azur Airport. From the airport, you can either rent a car or use public transportation to reach the village. The airport is about 13 km away, making it a quick journey by taxi or rental car.

By Train and Bus: There is no direct train service to Saint-Paul de Vence; however, you can take a train to the nearby Cagnes-sur-Mer station from Nice. From Cagnes-sur-Mer, bus number 400 will take you directly to Saint-Paul de Vence. This route is quite scenic and allows you to enjoy the Riviera landscape.

By Car: From Nice, take the A8 motorway and exit at Cagnes-sur-Mer. Follow the signs to Saint-Paul de Vence. The drive is straightforward and takes about 20-30 minutes, depending on traffic.