Why You Should Visit the Town of La Rochefoucauld in the Charente

If you love châteaux, chocolate shops, and good food, La Rochefoucauld has plenty to offer. It’s a stunning little place in the Charente, in southwest France.

You see the château before anything else. It cuts an imposing figure on the hilltop, surveying all who approach it. It’s gorgeous and still takes my breath away, even after all these years.

It’s perfect for anyone who loves exploring castles, uncovering centuries-old stories, and enjoying what may be one of the best steaks in the region.

Spending an Afternoon in La Rochefoucauld

You can’t come to La Rochefoucauld and not go to the chateau. It’s open to the public most of the year, and the family still live in part of the estate.

Chateau de La Rochefoucauld has been in the same family since the 10th century. The town derives its name from the family. It was fortified to defend against sea invasions, and the only original part left from that time is the Romanesque keep.

Nicknamed La Perle de l’Angoumois (Pearl of Angoumois), it sits on the banks of the River Tardoire, overlooking the village.

The La Rochefoucauld family has a rich history dating back to 1019, when records first mention Foucauld, Lord of La Roche.

Foucauld built a wooden camp on a rocky spur. The French word for ‘rock’ is ‘Roche’, which explains the castle and family name.

And now for a little history lesson. In the 11th century, Foucauld’s son built a square keep at the same site. Now, Foucauld was actually a close relative of the Viscount of Limoges, descended from the court of King Charlemagne.

With only four other families in all of France able to claim such noble ancestry, that’s pretty impressive.

In 1453, to mark the end of the Hundred Years’ War and assert his political authority as the Lord of the region, Jean de La Rochefoucauld added three more towers to the castle, raising the main tower to a greater height to oversee his domain from a higher vantage point.

In 1519, François de La Rochefoucauld and his wife, Anne de Polignac, began transforming the castle’s South Wing to incorporate the period’s Renaissance style.

Using Leonardo Da Vinci’s drawings, they built a stunning circular staircase connecting the various towers.

But for me, the most fascinating tale is that of a more modern family member, Robert de La Rochefoucauld.

As a wartime hero, he risked his life several times as a spy for Churchill’s Special Operations Executive (SOE).

Captured several times by the Nazis, he was sentenced to death twice, escaping both times. The first time, he jumped from the truck carrying him to his death, hijacking a nearby limousine and making his getaway.

The second time, he hit a guard over the head with a table leg, stole his uniform, and then shot two other guards to escape. Dressed as a nun, he reached a safe house undetected and was quickly spirited away by the Resistance.

Inside Château de la Rochefoucauld

To really understand the lives of the French aristocracy, you’ll find the chateau tour fascinating.

From the boudoir of Marguerite de Valois to the prison tower and a Gothic chapel, there is something to interest everyone.

The tour takes you through about twenty rooms, most of which are still furnished. You’ll see beautiful tapestries, paintings, and furniture, along with ornate decorations typical of the various eras.

The castle’s grand salon is particularly impressive, with high ceilings, large windows, and exquisite decorations.

I loved visiting the kitchen, which gives you a fascinating glimpse into life below stairs in medieval times. It’s been restored to its original state, complete with an enormous fireplace, copper pots and pans, and a range of other cooking utensils.

I can only imagine how hard life was as a scullery maid or kitchen hand all those years ago.

The library was stunning, with over 20,000 volumes, including rare manuscripts and books from the Middle Ages. It’s one of France’s largest private libraries.

The castle’s treasure room is another highlight of the tour. It contains over 240 boxes of family archives, including letters, documents, and other artifacts from the castle’s long and storied history. It’s a fascinating glimpse into the La Rochefoucauld family history.

Where to Eat in La Rochefoucauld

In La Rochefoucauld, there’s no point in looking much further than Chez Steph. In prime position, it sits right at the foot of the castle.

I can say, hand on heart, that their steak is the best steak I’ve had at a French restaurant. They are Limousin beef specialists, and boy can you tell.

One word of warning, though: never ask for your steak well done (“Bien cuit” en Francais). Hubby did this on our first visit. The waiter just looked at him, shook his head, and said, “Non.”

That was it, proving the customer is not always right when it comes to how you want your steak cooked in France. Luckily hubby’s taste buds have developed somewhat since then. He can now go with medium rare (“À point” en Francais).

But it isn’t just the food that’s amazing. The restaurant is in an old 17th-century building that oozes charm, warmth, and authenticity. The pizzas are amazing too, or so my stepson Alex tells me.

So a trip to Chez Steph is always on the list every time we visit La Rochefoucauld.

Address: 48 Rue des Halles, 16110 La Rochefoucauld | Book a Table

Pay a Visit to La Chocolaterie d’Antan

Trust me, you won’t want to do this before lunch. It’s a bit like going food shopping when you’re hungry. All that happens is you buy what you fancy instead of what you need. If you love French chocolate, you’re in for a treat.

Well, it’s the same with this. If I go into La Chocolaterie d’Antan hungry, I know I’ll spend a fortune. Run by Annick Grenier and her son Guillaume, the chocolates are all made on-site using traditional master-chocolatier methods.

I can vouch for how good they are; I’ve been there many times and never left empty-handed. The smell when you walk in is divine, and then when you taste the produce, it’s hard to leave. It’s quite literally an assault on your taste buds.

Address: 6-8 rue des Gaillaudes, 16110 La Rochefoucauld | Check opening hours

Other things to do in La Rochefoucauld

I would be remiss not to mention the shopping street as you walk into La Rochefoucauld toward the castle. You’ll find some great little boutique shops for window shopping.

If you’re there on a Saturday, market day in front of the church, they sometimes have little pop-up stalls selling oysters and champagne. It’s so French!

My other favorite place to browse is Alcuvilla Jérôme Antiques. I haven’t yet bought anything, but I’ve come close a few times.

But whether you buy or not, it’s a great place to lose yourself looking at all the antiques, wondering what their story is and where they’ve come from.

La Rochefoucauld really is one of the jewels in our crown here in the Charente. And I hope that, if nothing else, I’ve inspired you to take some time to visit this historical town.