Why the Medieval Town of Bergerac in France Should Be on Your French Bucket List

Last updated on August 11th, 2024 at 01:28 pm

If you’ve never visited the medieval town of Bergerac in France, you’re in for a treat. It’s an absolute feast for the eyes, with half-timbered buildings, pretty little squares, and the Dordogne River as a backdrop.

I recently went for the first time when my brother visited me from the UK. He wanted to go because of a TV program from the 1980s by the same name. Set on the island of Jersey, it had nothing to do with the town in France, but somehow, we Brits always associated the two.

Then, there is Cyrano de Bergerac, a 17th-century novelist and playwright. Although not born in Bergerac, he adopted the name due to his family’s estate and his service as a Gascon Musketeer​. The town honors this connection with a statue and references throughout the old town.

Where is Bergerac France

Bergerac is located in the southwestern part of France, in the Dordogne department of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region. 

Positioned along the Dordogne River, it is about 92 kilometers east of Bordeaux, 78 kilometers east of Sarlat-la-Canéda, and 40 kilometers south of Périgueux, the largest town in the Dordogne. 

Is Bergerac Worth Visiting

In a word, yes, Bergerac is definitely worth visiting. It’s easy to walk around, and there is plenty to keep you occupied on a day out. 

Although Bergerac is the second-largest town in the department, it’s relatively small. I’m not sure you’d need to spend more than a day or two to see everything, but it’s worth the trip.

Bergerac Old Town

Dating back to the 11th century, the town was initially developed around a castle and played a crucial role due to its strategic location. It had the only bridge across the Dordogne River in the area at that time​.

Throughout the Middle Ages, Bergerac thrived mainly due to its wine trade. However, it was significantly impacted during the Hundred Years’ War, frequently changing hands between the English and the French. 

The Wars of Religion further disrupted the town as it became a Protestant stronghold, leading to the destruction of many churches and convents​.

The town’s fortunes fluctuated over the centuries. By the time of the French Revolution, Bergerac had regained some importance in the region, although transport developments in the 19th century favored neighbouring towns like Périgueux. 

It wasn’t until the 20th century that Bergerac re-emerged as an important local centre, with industries in tobacco and wine re-establishing its economic significance​.

12 Things To Do in Bergerac

When we got there, I went straight to the tourism office. They gave me a great map of the main places to see in Bergerac, which was a good start. But I’d also found a Bergerac Murder Mystery game that took you around the town with Sherlock Holmes. I couldn’t resist, and it was a lot of fun.

Use this link if you want to give it a go yourself.

No 1 Walk Around the Medieval Streets

Whether or not you do a guided walking tour, Bergerac is one of those towns where you just need to wander around. You never know what you’ll find or see, as there is something around every corner.

Each building is prettier than the last, and it’s impossible to get lost. My brother and I spent some time wandering on our own first, as the tourism board is at the bottom of town just before you get to the river.

As I walked around, I saw these huge wall murals everywhere I looked. It turns out Bergerac is designated as a “Town and Region of Art and History.”

The street art and murals form part of the ART TAK festival, which brings together artists to create stunning murals that reflect the community’s spirit and artistic flair. 

And boy, do they stand out. Everywhere I looked, enormous murals covered the walls of some of the buildings.

The most impressive is MIKA’s mural, “Love is a Rebellious Bird,” inspired by the opera Carmen. It symbolizes the bond between art and the local community.​

No 2 Pont de Bergerac

From the Middle Ages to the end of the Old Regine, Bergerac was the only town in the Dordogne Valley where travelers could find a bridge to cross the river. 

Unfortunately, in 1783, the river flooded and swept away the original bridge. It was replaced by the current stone and brick bridge between 1822 and 1825. Standing on the bridge gives you fantastic views down the river, it’s really quite beautiful.

Le Quai Salvette

There are a few things to look out for in this area. First is Le Quai Salvette. For centuries, the town was based around the port, but in 1838, Quai Salvette replaced the medieval docks. It stands on the site of the old castle where the town grew in the 11th century. 

Maison Peyrarède

Just up from the port on the intersection of rue de l’Ancien Pont and rue des Rois-de-France is Maison Peyrarède. It was built by the Peyrarède family, wealthy fabric merchants, in the early 17th century. 

It also goes by the name of Chateau Henri IV, and legend has it that King Louis XIII stayed in the mansion when he came to the town to recapture it from the Huguenots in 1621.

No 3 Place du Docteur Cayla

As we know, the town was a Protestant stronghold during the tumultuous French Wars of Religion period, not a great thing to be in a Catholic country. 

The square dates back to the 13th century and was originally home to the Récollets convent. After the convent’s dissolution, the chapel was converted into a Protestant church in the 18th century.

No 4 Place de la Mirpe

Place de la Mirpe is surrounded by half-timbered houses that date back to the 16th century. You can’t help but whip your camera as it’s stunning and takes your breath away.

The square was also the site of the old flour market, but the main attraction is a statue of Cyrano de Bergerac, created by Jean Varoquea in 1977.

Cyrano de Bergerac

There are so many stories about Cyrano de Bergerac that I was keen to learn more about who he really was and his connection with the town.

Let me set the scene for you. In 1385, King Charles VI awarded Ramond de la Riviere lands in the Chevreuse Valley, southwest of Paris, as a reward for his contribution to the recapture of Bergerac from the English. He named this estate Bergerac. 

Some 300 years later, Hercule Savinien de Cyrano, born in 1619 in Paris, moved to Bergerac in 1622. His father, Abel de Cyrano, inherited these lands from his mother when she died in 1616, having been purchased by Savinien (I) de Cyrano (Savinien’s Grandfather) forty years earlier.

Then, at 19 years old, Hercule Savinien joined the company of Gascon Musketeers, “des Gardes françaises,”  where he earned a reputation as a fierce duelist. It was at this time that he added “de Bergerac” to his name.

He resumed his studies and made a name for himself in poetry and literature. Although, he continued to duel and display his prowess as a swordsman. His most famous works include “L’Autre Monde: les États et Empires de la Lune” and “Les États et Empires du Soleil,” considered early examples of science fiction. He died in an accident in Paris in 1655.

It was Hercule Savinien who inspired Edmond Rostand when he wrote “Cyrano de Bergerac” in 1897 for the Porte Saint-Martin theatre. The play brought Cyrano international fame, portraying him as a tragic hero with a large nose, a brilliant mind, and unrequited love for his cousin Roxane. 

No 5 La Maison Doublet

Catherine de Medici visited Bergerac in 1577. Her visit was part of her efforts to stabilize the region during the French Wars of Religion. Bergerac, being a significant Protestant stronghold, was crucial for Catherine’s diplomatic missions aimed at reconciling the warring Catholic and Protestant factions in France. 

She didn’t stay in Bergerac. Instead, she stayed at Château de Monbazillac, a nearby castle. But her visit was probably connected to implementing the Edict of Pacification of Bergerac.

The Edict of Pacification of Bergerac, also known as the Treaty of Bergerac, was carried out in Bergerac on September 14, 1577. This treaty was signed between King Henry III of France and the Huguenot princes, marking an attempt to temporarily end the hostilities during the French Wars of Religion. 

The treaty imposed certain limitations on the Huguenots, reducing the freedoms previously granted to them, which the Edict of Poitiers later ratified on September 17, 1577.

These meetings occurred in La Maison Doublet, the Doublet family home, next to the Fontaine de Mazeaux.

No 6 Place Pelissiere

This picturesque square is a focal point in the old town and features a historical fountain, once used by locals for washing. The main attraction is another statue of Cyrano de Bergerac, a polychrome bronze designed by Mauro Corda and inaugurated in 2005.

Originally known as the Tanners Quarter, “Pelissiere” comes from the word tanners (pélissiers) who once worked there.

There are plenty of restaurants around the square to choose from, and my brother and I had a lovely meal at Le Saint Jacques.

No 7 Eglise Saint-Jacques 

Eglise Saint-Jacques is to the side of Place Pelissiere. It was initially built as a chapel on the pilgrim route to Compostela for pilgrims traveling to Santiago de Compostela.

The English destroyed the original chapel in 1345 during the Hundred Years’ War. It was rebuilt in 1377. However, the Wars of Religion in the 16th century led to extensive damage, with much of the church destroyed by Protestant forces in 1553​.

In 1877, an organ was built by the famous organ maker Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, and it was classified as a historical monument in 1993. 

No 8 La Halle de Bergerac

The covered market in Bergerac is relatively small but has everything you need. During July and August, it is open twice daily. I couldn’t quite believe it when I went to the cheese counter as they had one of my all-time favourite English cheeses, Shropshire Blue. Although I did have to laugh as they said it was from Nottingham.

No 9 Musée du Tabac

The Musée du Tabac, or Tobacco Museum, is located in the Maison Peyrarède, where King Louis XIII allegedly stayed. The museum is dedicated to exploring tobacco’s cultural, social, and economic history in Bergerac and worldwide.

Tobacco was introduced to Bergerac and the surrounding region centuries ago, becoming a significant crop by the 17th century. The town’s strategic location along the Dordogne River facilitated the transportation and export of tobacco, enhancing its economic importance.

Five themed exhibits covering different aspects of tobacco’s history, including various artifacts related to tobacco cultivation and consumption, such as pipes, cigar holders, and tobacco jars, highlight tobacco’s cultural and economic role in the region.

Today, while tobacco is no longer the primary economic driver it once was, its historical significance remains a cultural heritage point for Bergerac. 

No 10 Musée de la Ville

The Musée de la Ville de Bergerac, also known as the Museum of the City, Wine, and Inland Waterways, is situated in a historical half-timbered building that once served as a tavern on the port of Bergerac. 

The museum provides a comprehensive look at the town’s heritage, focusing on the intertwined histories of the river and the vineyards.

The museum is organized into three main levels, each dedicated to a different theme:

1. Ground Floor: This level explores Bergerac’s history from its medieval origins to the 19th century. The exhibits include photographic documents, rare archives, and selected objects that tell the story of the town’s development and significant historical events.
2. First Floor: Dedicated to the wines of the Bergerac region, this floor houses a collection of farming tools and objects from the region’s cooperage workshops and wine cellars. It highlights the evolution of the vineyards around Bergerac. It details the history of the wine trade with the British Isles and Northern Europe, which played a crucial role in sustaining the local economy.
3. Second Floor: This level focuses on the Dordogne River and its significance to inland waterway transport. Exhibits include models of the typical flat-bottomed boats known as “gabares,” old photographs, and woodworking tools used in boat construction. It also covers the history of the bridges crossing the Dordogne.

No 11 Maison des Vins

The Maison des Vins is in the Cloître des Récollets, a beautiful 17th-century cloister in the heart of Bergerac’s old town. It serves as a wine museum and a cultural centre, offering wine tastings, exhibitions, and educational information about the region’s diverse wine appellations.

If you do a wine tasting, you can sample a wide range of local wines, including Montravel, Pécharmant, and Monbazillac.

The cloister occasionally hosts cultural events, including concerts and local artisan markets, especially during the summer and festive seasons.

No 12 Eglise Notre Dame

Constructed between 1856 and 1865, the church was designed by architect Paul Abadie, who intended it to resemble a small cathedral. Abadie was inspired by the renowned architect Viollet-le-Duc, although the latter’s plans were too costly for the town to implement in full.

It’s impressive in size and design, measuring 96 meters long and featuring an 80-meter-tall tower.

The bell tower, topped with a spire, houses three bells, with the largest weighing over a whopping 2,300 kilograms.

Inside, you’ll find some pretty significant works of art, including two Renaissance paintings: “The Adoration of the Shepherds” by Gaudenzio Ferrari and “The Adoration of the Magi” by Pordenone. These paintings were originally part of the Duke of Orleans’ collection and are now classified as historical monuments.

FAQS on Visiting Bergerac

Final Thoughts on Going to Bergerac in France

If you’re staying in the Dordogne region, a trip to Bergerac should be on your list. You won’t need more than a day to see everything, and it’s a beautiful example of a French medieval town. 

It’s not far from Brantome, another gorgeous village in the Dordogne, and is easy to get to by car and from the airport.