10 Unmissable Things to Do in Brantôme, the Venice of Périgord in the Dordogne Region

Living in the French countryside surrounded by picturesque villages that still take my breath away after ten years, I’ve become a little blasé about beautiful places. However, the town of Brantôme stopped me in my tracks for all the right reasons. It’s seriously stunning.

The abbey, which was built centuries ago by monks, takes center stage and pretty dominates the landscape around it. Everywhere you look, there’s a view of some description, and in the summer, you’ll see people in kayaks and canoes completing the idyllic scene.

If you’ve never been before, you’re missing out. It’s known as the Venice of Périgord for a very good reason.

Is Brantôme worth visiting?

In one word, YES! I can quite honestly say this village took my breath away. 

I didn’t know which way to look. With each step I took, there was something new to discover and make me catch my breath.

Without a doubt, the most imposing building in this little village is the Abbey. It’s impossible not to be in awe as you look up at the magnificent bell tower and see it reflected in the river it sits in front of.

I don’t think I’ve ever taken so many pictures of an Abbey before. There were more Instagrammable moments than I could possibly have imagined.

7 Things to Do in Brantôme

Brantôme is a small village that you can easily explore in a couple of hours. However, its size is deceptive because I managed to spend a whole day there quite easily, and I didn’t even take a kayak on the river.

I suggest splitting your day between before lunch and after lunch.

It was a blisteringly hot day when I went, so I decided to leave the caves and Abbey till after lunch, allowing me to take advantage of being somewhere cool as the heat of the day descended.

No. 1 – Visit Brantôme Abbey and Caves

You can’t come to Brantôme and not visit the caves and Abbey, ‘sacre bleu’!

As we know, the caves came before the Abbey, and for the bargain price of €7, you can take a trip back in time to the troglodyte caves where the monks spent their time.

The limestone cliffs, which sit behind the Abbey, had numerous cavities. These were transformed into quarries, and when you do the tour, you’ll see how the monks used these.

There are 34 points of interest on the tour, and you can either take the guided tour or do a self-tour. I opted for the latter as each point had a plaque with a description in French and English, making it super easy to follow.

They also allow dogs on the tour as long as they’re kept on the lead.

The first thing that strikes you is the sheer size of these caves; they are seriously huge. One of the first ones you go into has the bas-relief of the Grotto of the Last Judgement, which you can see below.

There are different interpretations of the carvings, with the most popular being that Jesus is sitting in judgment.

You’ll also see the Saint Sicaire fountain, believed to have healing properties.

One part of the caves we went into had what looked like a huge, oversized well, and I got a really eerie, cold feeling when I went in there, as if something terrible had happened.

All I could think about was someone being left down there as punishment, with no escape, whilst the water flowed in.

Included within your entry ticket to the caves is the Museum of Fernand Desmoulin, a spiritual artist whose main work was produced during 1900-1902.

Cost: €/$4.5 or €/$ €/$10 for a combined ticket including a visit to the abbey
Opening Hours: Check the website

No. 2 – Brantôme’s shops and streets

Wandering through the streets of this beautiful village allows you to indulge your mind in the fantasy of times gone by. 

If you took away the modern-day shops, you could almost be in 12th-century Brantôme with the monks, going about your daily business.

And speaking of shops, make sure you visit the ones that sit directly underneath the Abbey. All of them are within the caves, giving you respite from the sun along with an extraordinary shopping experience. 

I went into several, one quite large, selling all sorts of local oils, meats, and cheeses. They had bottles of the local Périgord Walnut Oil, which is seriously good, although a little pricey at €15 a bottle. 

I tried some at lunch with the most yummy walnut bread, and I can’t tell you how good it was.

Another shop was selling all sorts of artisan goods, including some gorgeous little hand fans, which of course, with the weather being so hot, I just had to buy. 

This shop was, quite literally, a cave of hidden treasures.

Map of Brantôme: Bilingual Tourist map can be downloaded here
Tourism Office: Église Notre-Dame, 2 Rue Puyjoli de Meyjounissas, 24310

No. 3 – The Cloister, Abbey and Bell Tower Tour

I didn’t do the tour BUT I’ve heard great things about it. It’s a guided tour of less than 20 people and takes about 90 minutes in total. 

You’ll visit the chapter house where the monks met every morning and the cloister wing that managed to escape destruction during the 19th-century restoration.

But the piece-de-la-resistance of the tour is the climb to the top of the 11th-century bell tower. It’s not for the faint of heart, as it’s a bit narrow as you climb, but you’ll get a pretty good view across the countryside from the top.

Cost: €/$8 or €/$10 for a combined ticket including a visit to the caves
Opening Hours: Check the website
Number of steps in the belltower: 130

No 4 – Rent a kayak or canoe

The next time I go to Brantôme, I’m definitely going to do this because it looked like so much fun. And what better way to see this beautiful village than from the river itself? 

I watched as people came drifting down the river, looking serenely peaceful, only to be greeted by a ramp they had to go down to get to the next section. 

The screams of laughter that accompanied going down the ramp were infectious, and people were really enjoying the experience. 

I must admit to being a little jealous as it looked like the perfect place to be sat, especially on a hot day in June.

I would advise making sure you wear appropriate clothing that you don’t mind getting wet, as many people looked like they’d had a bit of a soaking. 

Two places where you can hire the kayaks are Brantome Canoe, where prices start from €12, and Allo Canoes, prices start from €14.

No. 5 – Take a cruise on the River Dronne

If kayaking is a little too energetic or wet for your liking, then a more civilised way to enjoy the river is on a river cruise.

In just under an hour, you’ll learn all about the history of Brantôme and enjoy sailing along the River Dronne.

Brantôme Croisières does several trips a day. The commentary is in both French and English and for a single adult ticket, it’s €10.

It’s worth noting they only accept cash, so make sure you have enough Euros on you.

No. 6 – Enjoy the Brantôme Market

As you’ll have heard me say many times on this blog, markets in France are a way of life, and the Brantôme should not be missed.

There are two markets held weekly, one on Tuesday and the other on Friday morning.

Markets were an important part of life in the Middle Ages too, as they allowed towns and villages across France to make money. 

People would come from other villages to visit the market and buy their goods, as not all villages were granted a charter to hold their own market. 

Visitors would usually pay a toll or bridge fee to enter the town, which was a great way for the town to make extra money. However, that fee usually has to be paid to the Abbey in return for being allowed to hold the market. So the money didn’t really benefit the peasants who did the hard work.

The market in Brantôme has been held for over 500 years on Place du Marché, and you’ll find everything from local fruit and veg to artisan products.

No. 7 Take a walk in Les Jardins Tranquilles

If you love a picnic, then Les Jardins Tranquilles are the perfect place to lay out your picnic blanket and indulge in some French delicacies. 

Designed by passionate gardener Jean-Pierre Texier, they were originally called Les Jardins d’Au-Delà, meaning The Garden Beyond.

The gardens are filled with trees, flowers and fountains and are a lovely place to simply sit and enjoy your surroundings. 

From my table in the restaurant across the other side of the river, I watched as two women sat on a bench in the gardens. One was engrossed in her book, the other taking in the scenery. I thought then, what a lovely way to spend an afternoon relaxing in nature and just being.

Find out more about the history of the gardens here >>>

Places to eat in Brantôme

The Dordogne is brimming with local gastronomic delights from Foie Gras to Magret de Canard. But it’s also home to strawberries, walnuts and truffles.

With so many restaurants to choose from all offering an array of local delights, it was hard to choose.

However, as our trip was near to my birthday, I thought it appropriate to treat ourselves to a 1-start Michelin restaurant for a pre-birthday lunch.

Le Moulin de l’Abbeye

Possibly one of the best meals I’ve ever had this fabulous restaurant is part of the old Abbey and sits overlooking the River Dronne.

We had a table on the covered terrace, which meant we could see everything, including the Abbey, the gardens and of course, the river and the people kayaking.

I cannot praise this restaurant enough. The service was nothing short of brilliant, the food was to die for, and the scenery spectacular.

I could have happily sat there all afternoon sipping champagne as the setting was magical.

We opted for the three-course meal, which was actually 7 mini-courses, we counted. And there was no choice because it was the chef’s choice of menu.

All I can say is wow! We tried things we’d never normally have tried.

I’ve never tasted walnut bread like it. It was served beautifully in a wooden bowl and sat on top of some walnuts in their shells.

My friend Nicky, who is gluten-free, was catered for perfectly. For every course where there was gluten, she had her own GF option.

They also cater for vegetarians and vegans, but you need to phone in advance, which I did.

📍LOCATION: 1 Rue Pierre de Bourdeille, 24310 Brantôme en Périgord

🌐 Check reviews and availability for Le Moulin de l’Abbaye

Just in case you were wondering here’s a sneak peek at the menu we had:

For some less pricey options, try Restaurant Côte Rivière, with lovely river and abbey views, or Bocaux de Liens, vegan and vegetarian friendly at a great price.

Where to stay in Brantôme

Day trips and places to visit from Brantôme

Being located on the borders of the Charente and Dordogne there are plenty of places to go if you’re looking to use Brantôme as a base for your trip to France.

Aubeterre-Sur-Dronne is the Charente’s answer to Brantôme and is another beautiful village built on a limestone cliff. The feature there is the monolithic underground church.

Sarlat-la-Canéda is another gorgeous Medieval village in the Dordogne with one of the best food markets in the region. See if you can spot the statue of the geese, known as Statues des Trois Oies.

If you want to go slightly further then think about a day out in Cognac discovering the distilleries and the cartoon capital of Angouleme. Both are under 90 minutes and well worth the trip.

And of course, no trip to this region would be complete without going on a Bordeaux Wine Tour.

Best time to visit Brantôme

I’d advise not going during peak season, July and August if you can avoid it. Not only will you be fighting the crowds, but the temperatures tend to soar at that time of year, making it hot and sticky.

The Dordogne usually enjoys lovely ambient temperatures in April – June and September – November. So if you can visit during those months, it will be quieter making it easier to book a table on the terrace at Moulin de l’Abbaye, plus you won’t swelter.

What river runs through Brantôme?

The river Dronne runs through Brantome, although originally, the village was two independent villages divided by water. 

Looking over the water at the abbey as it stands proud on the bank of the Dronne you’re transported back in time. You can imagine the monks on their way to prayer and the village listening as the bells ring out to signal the start of the day.

There is a fascinating bridge you can walk over that takes you from the abbey into the monk’s gardens. It was built in the first half of the 16th century by the abbot at the time, Pierre de Bourdeille.

Is Brantôme in the Périgord or the Dordogne?

Good question. Brantome is in the Nouvelle Aquitaine, formed in 2016, combining 12 French departments into one region. The Dordogne, where Brantome is located, is one of those regions known locally as Périgord.

So to give Brantome its correct name, you’d call it Brantôme-en-Périgord.

The Périgord is actually split into four, and Brantôme is in the Périgord Vert and named after the forests found in the area. 

The other three are Périgord Noir (Black), named after the black truffles, Périgord Blanc (White), and Périgord Pourpre (purple).

There is even a festival in France to celebrate the truffle.

The history of Brantôme in the Dordogne

Originally a stopover on the way to Santiago de Compostela, Brantome can trace its steps all the way back to prehistoric man. 

But the village mainly revolves around the Benedictine Abbey and the surrounding caves. The Popular legend says that it was Charlemagne, the Frankish King, who founded the abbey in 769. 

He is rumoured to have donated the relics of Saint Sicaire, one of the innocents slaughtered by King Herod, to the Abbey, drawing pilgrims from far and wide.

The original Abbey was a troglodyte dwelling, and over time this was built out beyond the cliff.

The Benedictine monks lived in the troglodytes from the 8th century, providing them with shelter and construction materials.

It was rampaged and ravaged twice by the Normans, and in the 10th century, the bell tower, which can be seen today, was built.

Then came the English occupation in the late 14th and early 15th centuries. This almost jeopardized the existence of the entire community, and the church and cloister were partially destroyed.

Reconstruction began towards the end of the 15th century, and the Gothic style is still prominent in some of the remains.

By the 16th century, political changes in France meant that the King could make his own choice of who was to occupy the office of abbot. 

And as you can imagine, each King would choose those who were his favourites and would be of the biggest benefit to him. 

Loosely translated, he chose the ones who he could manipulate and make the most money from.

The most famous of these was Pierre de Bourdeille, known as “Brantôme” (who I mentioned earlier. He built the bridge across the River Dronne.

Not only was Pierre a warrior and author of “Dames Galantes” he also single-handedly saved the Abbey from destruction by the Huguenots, not once but twice.

According to the history books, instead of locking up the doors and hiding away from the oncoming onslaught, he threw open the doors to the abbey and invited the attacking Huguenots to join him in a feast.

The upshot was they left the Abbey intact without destroying a single thing. 

Some would say that part of the reason for this was down to the fact that Pierre had enjoyed a dalliance with Protestantism in the past, making the Huguenot leader look at him more favourably.

When the French Revolution happened, the monastic life disappeared, and the Abbey became the property of the city of Brantôme. 

Now the Abbey has become a big tourist attraction that sees over 40,000 people flock to the village each year, with the majority visiting in July and August.

How to get to Brantôme

Train

Brantôme has its own train station, Brantôme Gendarmerie, and it depends on where you’re coming from as to your journey. The best thing to do is use the Trainline App to decide on your route.

Fly & Hire a Car

Brantôme is served by three airports which gives you some great choices:

• Angoulême – Cognac International Airport (33 miles / 53.1 km)
• Bergerac Dordogne Périgord Airport (37 miles / 60 km)
• Limoges – Bellegarde Airport (43 miles / 69.3 km)

Bordeaux is the largest international airport but is a bit further away and around a two-hour drive.

For car hire, I recommend using Discover Cars as they always have the cheapest options.

CONCLUSION: Things to do in Brantôme, France

Brantôme is one of those villages that should absolutely be added to the list of places to visit in the Dordogne.

Even though I live here and am somewhat immune to the beautiful villages we have here, I couldn’t help but fall just a little bit in love with this village.

It’s made it onto my list of ‘places to take my visitors’, and I can’t wait to go back. 

So in the words of Simon Cowell on Britain’s Got Talent, it’s a YES from me.