Why You Need To Visit Les Halles de Narbonne, the Narbonne Market

Last updated on August 27th, 2024 at 08:43 am

Markets are a way of life in France. The French go at least once a week, sometimes more, and I love it. But not all markets are created equal.

In 2022, the Narbonne market, Les Halles de Narbonne, won the coveted award of France’s most beautiful covered market. And yes, there is a competition about markets. Why wouldn’t there be?

If you’ve not been, you’re missing out. The sights, sounds, and smells draw you in, and the atmosphere is like nothing you’ll find anywhere else. 

Listen To My Podcast Episode About Narbonne

What are “Les Halles” in France?

Often centuries old, these indoor markets are a foodie’s dream come true. Think endless stalls brimming with fresh produce, cheese, seafood, and meats. You’ll find everything from local favorites to gourmet delicacies. 

But it’s not just about what’s on offer; it’s the experience. People don’t just pop in to grab groceries; they linger, chat with vendors, and maybe grab an espresso or a glass of wine. It’s all about soaking in the atmosphere.

Les Halles are where tradition meets everyday life, and trust me, it’s worth exploring!

Visiting Les Halles de Narbonne

The Narbonne market sits right along the Canal de la Robine, an offshoot of the Canal du Midi. The canal winds through the town, lined with trees and little bridges, the perfect spot for a stroll after you’ve filled up on local goodies. There are also plenty of restaurants dotted around.

The market is open daily from 7:00 AM to 2:00 PM, even Sundays and public holidays! So whether you’re a local or a visitor, you can pop by any morning to experience the market in full swing!

This History of Narbonne Market

In 1871, Narbonne’s growing market at Place aux Herbes became too congested, prompting Paul Jean, a municipal councilor, to propose building a covered market. Many southern towns already had these, as they benefited both vendors and municipalities. 

Despite financial challenges delaying the project, the construction of Les Halles de Narbonne was finally approved in 1894 under the Ferroul municipality.

A construction agreement for Les Halles de Narbonne was signed with builder André Gabelle on November 26, 1898, but it wasn’t until January 1, 1901, that it finally opened its doors.

In the early days, the market was primarily a spot for farmers and fishermen from nearby villages to sell fresh produce and catch. It started with fewer stalls but quickly became a central meeting point for the locals.

The impressive Belle Époque structure features a combination of iron and glass, a style very much in vogue at the time. The top panels at the back of the market have black-and-white images of marketgoers from the 20th century. They stop you in your tracks as you’re not expecting to see them.

The Story Of Oulès Cheese Factory

Some stalls have stood the test of time, and the Oulès Cheese Factory is one of them. Originally known as the Belzon Cheese Factory, it was founded in 1895 by Aline Rouquet, who sold her cheese from wooden huts before moving into Les Halles de Narbonne when it opened in 1901. 

In 1925, Rouquet passed her stall to Joséphine Belzon, a war widow and friend. Belzon’s son Georges took over in 1949 and ran the stall with his wife until 1981 when they retired. 

The stall has since been modernized and passed through several hands, with Frédéric Oulès taking over in 2001. It is well worth stopping by as their cheese is to die for.

Going Inside the Market

Walking through Les Halles de Narbonne is an assault on the senses, lively and full of color, with vendors chatting to customers and the rich aroma of food everywhere. As you enter, you’ll be greeted by rows of fresh produce stalls, all sourced locally.

Butchers display Charolais beef and lamb cuts, while seafood stalls overflow with Mediterranean fish, oysters, and other fresh catches from the nearby coast. Cheese lovers can explore everything from creamy Roquefort to regional goats’ cheeses. There’s no shortage of boulangeries either, offering warm, crusty bread and golden pastries fresh from the oven.

You’ll find dedicated delicatessen stalls, too, selling gourmet products like foie gras, olives, and artisanal tapenades. My favorite was Gaillard, with all its olives. There are also wine merchants ready to help you pick a local Corbières or Minervois bottle to pair with your market haul.

The market isn’t just about shopping. It’s also a fantastic spot to eat on-site. Several vendors serve freshly prepared food like paella, grilled meats, or even a quick plate of oysters paired with a chilled glass of wine. Standing at one of the market counters for an impromptu meal and cheeky glass of wine is a very French thing to do.

Chez Bebelle

For a truly authentic market experience, don’t eat at one of the restaurants outside; instead, have lunch inside at Chez Bebelle. All they serve is meat and chips, so simple but so good. 

The stall has been in the same family for three generations, and it’s something of an institution. But expect the unexpected. Although all the meat used comes from the butchers in the market, Bebelle has a rather unique way of getting it.

Rather than collecting the meat, he likes to catch it, literally. He is an old rugby pro and likes nothing better than to tackle his meat head-on. It’s quite the show.

The simple meal of meat, chips, and salad is popular, though. The queues can often go around the corner, so get there early to avoid disappointment.

What is the “Votre Plus Beau Marché” competition 

As I mentioned earlier, Narbonne won the “Votre Plus Beau Marché” competition, organized by French TV channel TF1, in 2022. It allows the public to vote for the most beautiful market in France. Launched in 2018, the contest typically runs from early in the year, with regional selections starting in February and national voting in the spring.

Local newspapers and media partners help promote markets from each region, and the public votes online to determine the national winner. The goal is to celebrate the unique charm, culture, and offerings of France’s markets, with the final winner announced on TF1’s evening news.

What Else Is There To See in and Around Narbonne?

Narbonne has so much more to offer beyond its famous market. After visiting Les Halles, stroll through the historic streets and stop by the impressive Narbonne Cathedral with its stunning Gothic architecture. 

For a bit of history, don’t miss the Palais des Archevêques and the Donjon Gilles Aycelin. You can climb to the top for panoramic views of the city and the surrounding countryside. I did this, and the views were breathtaking!

Narbonne is a city to add to your French travel bucket list. There is plenty to see and do and not as many tourists as some of the nearer cities.

There are some fantastic destinations just a short drive away. One of the most popular is Carcassonne, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its magnificent medieval fortress and cobbled streets. It’s like stepping back in time, and it’s only about an hour from Narbonne. The Corbières and Minervois regions offer scenic vineyards and tasting tours if you’re into wine. 

The Mediterranean coast is also nearby—head to Gruissan for a beach day or explore the salt marshes. Whether you’re after history, wine, or sun, Narbonne’s location is ideal for exploring the best of southern France.