A Walk Up Rue Lepic: The Montmartre Street Where Artists, Windmills, and Café Culture Meet

There are so many fantastic places in Paris to go to, but for me, the magic of Montmartre always wins the battle over where to go. It’s the kind of place where you can almost hear the whispers of poets and painters who once roamed the streets, sipping coffee, sketching in notebooks, and debating life’s great mysteries over a glass of wine. It’s the quintessential bohemian Paris, and if that’s what you’re after, you need to spend some time in Montmartre, specifically on rue Lepic.

Now, Montmartre is packed with history, but rue Lepic? This street is something special. It twists and turns up the hill, winding past cafés, historic buildings, and spots that have barely changed since the days when Van Gogh and his brother lived here. You’ll be walking the same street he did, and if that doesn’t give you goosebumps, I don’t know what will. 

And if you’ve ever seen the movie Amélie, you might recognize the famous Café des 2 Moulins, which sits right here on rue Lepic. But it’s not just about history. There’s an energy to this street. Tiny shops with their doors flung open, the smell of fresh coffee drifting through the air. It’s got that real Parisian feel, the kind of place where you can slow down, grab a seat at a café, and just watch the world go by.

The Story of Rue Lepic: Where History and Art Collide

If you want to step into a Montmartre street that feels like a time capsule, rue Lepic is where you need to be. It’s seen centuries of change, from a simple dirt path to today’s lively, art-filled street. It’s a street where windmills once turned, Van Gogh once lived, and an early automobile pioneer proved his car could handle the steepest climbs. Rue Lepic is a piece of Montmartre’s soul.

Before it became rue Lepic, it was nothing more than a rural track leading up the hill. Back then, Montmartre wasn’t part of Paris; it was a separate village covered in vineyards and dotted with windmills. The street was known simply as Chemin Neuf (New Road) until Napoleon had it properly built in 1809. 

In the 1850s, it briefly bore the name Rue de l’Empereur, but in 1864, it was renamed after General Louis Lepic, a Napoleonic war hero known for rallying his troops in battle with the words, “Heads up, gentlemen! We’re not here to duck bullets.” The name stuck, and today, the only battles on rue Lepic are fought over the best café terrace seat.

But what makes rue Lepic really special is the people who have walked, lived, and created here. Van Gogh and his brother Theo lived at number 54 in the late 1880s. If you’ve ever looked at his Parisian paintings with their thick, swirling strokes of city life, you’re looking at what he saw from this very street. 

Writer Louis-Ferdinand Céline, who shook up French literature with his novel Journey to the End of the Night, lived further up the hill at number 98. Even automotive history played out here. Louis Renault famously proved the power of his new automobile by driving it straight up rue Lepic in 1898, a feat that helped him sell his first cars.

And then there are the windmills. Montmartre was once covered in them, and on rue Lepic, you can still find traces of that past. At number 77, the Moulin de la Galette and Moulin Radet are reminders of a time when flour was ground here instead of tourists snapping photos. 

The Moulin de la Galette became famous not for its flour but for its wild dance hall, where Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Picasso spent their nights capturing the electric energy of Montmartre in paint.

Notable Residents and Artists of Rue Lepic

As mentioned earlier, rue Lepic has long been a magnet for creatives, innovators, and cultural figures. These are just a few of the people who contributed to the magic of this Montmartre street.

Vincent van Gogh and Theo van Gogh

From 1886 to 1888, the renowned painter Vincent van Gogh and his brother Theo resided at 54 Rue Lepic. During this period, Vincent immersed himself in Paris’s vibrant art scene, refining his style and producing works that reflected the city’s bohemian atmosphere. ​

Jehan Rictus

The poet Jehan Rictus, celebrated for his poignant verses capturing the essence of Parisian life, lived at 50 Rue Lepic for over a decade. His residency contributed to the street’s literary heritage. ​

Jean-Baptiste Clément

Known for penning the song “Le Temps des cerises,” Jean-Baptiste Clément resided at 53 Rue Lepic in 1880 after returning from exile. He later moved to 100 Rue Lepic in 1891.

Eugène Delâtre

The painter and engraver Eugène Delâtre had multiple studios along Rue Lepic, including numbers 92, 87, 97, and 102. 

Louis-Ferdinand Céline

The influential writer Louis-Ferdinand Céline lived at 98 Rue Lepic from 1929 to 1941. During this time, he authored significant works that left an indelible mark on French literature. 

Armand Guillaumin

Armand Guillaumin, an Impressionist painter, lived on the first floor of 54 Rue Lepic. His works often depict landscapes and urban scenes, contributing to Impressionist art. 

Charles Léandre

In 1910, the painter Charles Léandre, who was known for his caricatures and illustrations, lived at 59 Rue Lepic. 

Jean-Louis Forain

In 1910, the satirical cartoonist and painter Jean-Louis Forain lived at 64 Rue Lepic. His works often provided sharp social commentary, reflecting the nuances of Parisian society. 

Adolphe Willette

The painter Adolphe Willette, known for his contributions to Montmartre’s artistic scene, lived at 87 Rue Lepic after 1882. His works often depicted lively Parisian life and the debauchery that accompanied it.

Georges Courteline

The novelist and playwright Georges Courteline resided at 89 Rue Lepic. His satirical works offered a humorous take on French society. 

Gen Paul

Born at 96 Rue Lepic, Gen Paul was a painter and engraver influenced by artists like van Gogh and Cézanne. 

These individuals, among others, have woven their stories into the fabric of Rue Lepic. You feel their spirit as you walk up the hill towards Artist’s Square.

The Stories Behind Rue Lepic’s Iconic Establishments

Moulin de la Galette

Moulin de la Galette, or Moulin Blute-Fin as originally known, was a windmill built in 1622. It was initially one of several mills grinding grain for the locals. The name “Blute-fin” comes from the French term bluter, meaning to sift flour, which was its primary function. 

In the early 19th century, the Debray family owned the mill and began selling a special brown bread, or galette, accompanied by a glass of milk. This became so popular that the mill adopted the name “Moulin de la Galette.” ​

But it wasn’t just about bread and milk. By 1830, the Debrays had transformed the area into a lively guinguette, an open-air dance hall where Parisians flocked to escape the city’s hustle. Couples twirled under the stars, the air filled with laughter and music, all set against the rustic backdrop of the windmill. 

This atmosphere caught the eye of artists like Renoir, who immortalized it in his painting “Bal du moulin de la Galette,” capturing the essence of Montmartre’s joie de vivre. Unfortunately, today, although it is still a functioning windmill, it’s a private residence, so you can’t actually go inside.

Café des 2 Moulins

At the corner of Rue Lepic and Rue Cauchois sits the Café des 2 Moulins, whose name reflects its proximity to the Moulin Rouge and Moulin de la Galette. For years, it was a typical neighborhood café serving coffee and croissants and a cozy spot for evening apéritifs. 

All that changed in 2001 with the release of Le Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain. Audrey Tautou, the quirky protagonist of the film, worked as a waitress in this café. The movie’s global success transformed the Café des 2 Moulins into a pilgrimage site for fans eager to sip espresso where Amélie once served. I’m pleased to say that the interior hasn’t changed much; it’s pretty much as it was during filming, and there is a framed poster of the movie on the wall.

La Vache Enragée: The Cabaret of the ‘Enraged Cow’

In the early 1920s, Montmartre was a bubbling cauldron of artistic expression, and at its heart was a cabaret with a peculiar name: La Vache Enragée. Founded in February 1921 by the chansonnier Roger Toziny and his collaborator Maurice Hallé, this venue quickly became a sanctuary for poets, musicians, and satirists. 

The name, translating to ‘The Enraged Cow,’ was borrowed from a satirical weekly they had previously launched, reflecting the establishment’s commitment to biting humor and social commentary. You’ve got to love the French. This sort of humor makes me so glad I moved to France.

It was here that Pierre Dac, later renowned for his surreal humor, was persuaded by Toziny to take the stage, marking the beginning of his career. Artists like Raymond Souplex and Léo Malet, who would go on to leave indelible marks on French culture, also performed there. The venue also played a philanthropic role; in April 1921, Toziny organized the first ‘Foire aux croûtes’ (Scabs Fair) to support struggling painters. 

Vandoren

At 56 rue Lepic is Vandoren. Established in 1905 by Eugène Van Doren, a clarinetist with the Paris Opera, the company began as a humble endeavor to produce high-quality reeds for woodwind instruments. Eugène’s craftsmanship quickly gained recognition, leading him to transition from performer to full-time reed maker. This shop fascinates me as a classical pianist and violinist. I might not be able to buy anything from there for my instruments, but just being there and drinking in the atmosphere is fabulous.

Eugène’s son, Robert, after a successful stint as a clarinet soloist in the United States, took the helm in 1935. Under his leadership, Vandoren expanded its operations, acquiring additional facilities on Rue Lepic and introducing innovations like the 5RV mouthpiece, which became a staple for clarinetists worldwide. Today, Bernard Van Doren, the founder’s grandson, has taken the reins.

Moulin Radet

Further along Rue Lepic, you’ll find Moulin Radet, one of Montmartre’s last two remaining windmills. Built in 1717, it no longer grinds grain, but you can still see it poking its head up above the trees. You’ll need to use your imagination to create a picture in your mind of what it might have been like a couple of centuries ago. Now, it stands above a restaurant called Le Moulin de la Galette.

As you can see, as streets in Paris go, rue Lepic is right up there on the history front and played a huge part in the bohemian lifestyle of Montmartre.

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