The Best Kept Secret in Southwest France: The Gers Region in Gascony

Last updated on April 30th, 2025 at 09:48 am

As a travel writer living in France, I spend a lot of time visiting different towns and cities; it’s one of the many perks of my job. On one of my latest excursions, I drove to the Gers region in southwest France, and boy, am I glad I did. The countryside is stunning, packed full of gorgeous medieval villages, artisans with amazing produce, and a golden liquid called Armagnac. 

In a whirlwind 24-hour trip, I barely scratched the surface of what this department offers. Which, of course, means I’ll need to go back and find out more. But if you’re looking for an authentic French cultural experience in a place the tourists haven’t yet discovered, this is where you want to come. 

The Gers has a lot to shout about, from its fabulous wines and gastronomy to being the birthplace of a well-known Musketeer named d’Artagnan. Sitting between Bordeaux and Toulouse, it’s a great stop-off point if you’re travelling further into the south of France. And I can promise you, you won’t be disappointed.

The Undiscovered Gers Region in Southwest France

The Gers is a peaceful rural department where rolling hills stretch as far as the eye can see. It is about a two-hour drive from Bordeaux, but it feels like a world away from the bustle of the city. I was invited to stay by Jenine Lurie, the owner of A Taste of Gascony, a company offering culinary adventures that dive deep into the flavors and traditions of the Gers. 

My base was the Bastide village of Bassoues in the northern part of the region, an area famed for its Armagnac, hearty country cooking, and old-world charm that still beats strong through every stone and vineyard.

When I arrived, it was a stunning spring day. To reach Jenine’s house, I had to drive right through the heart of the village, passing under the towering medieval covered marketplace that looked like something out of a storybook. I was looking for a little road marked Chemin des Lavandières, named after the old washhouse where women once gathered to scrub clothes and swap stories. I believe the washhouse still stands today, tucked away in the fields just beyond Jenine’s home.

My Host and Tour Guide

I stayed overnight in Jenine’s gite, part of her house and the last building on the lane that looked out over the fields and countryside. It’s a beautiful property with a lovely garden and patio overlooking the lovely pool. 

She welcomed me like an old friend, and within minutes we sat outside with a glass of local rosé, the warm afternoon sun casting a golden glow over the countryside. It was the perfect start to what would turn out to be a memorable adventure in the Gers.

Jenine is a woman with many stories to tell, and she’s led a fascinating life. And I was interested to hear about her move from the hustle and bustle of New York City, where she lived, to the quiet rural life in Bassoues. 

Before moving to France, she was the Slow Food Convivium Leader in New York City, leading culinary walking tours across all five boroughs. Her tours helped visitors move beyond the usual tourist spots and discover the real neighborhoods, supporting small business owners and celebrating food as a connection to culture and heritage. Now in the Gers, she shares that passion by creating edible adventures that deeply connect to the region’s rich traditions.

She also happens to be a great cook. As I’d arrived on Easter Monday, there were no restaurants open, so Jenine offered to cook dinner, and it was as good as any dinner we could have had out. As is customary in France, we started with an apéro, and I got my first taste of a drink called Floc de Gascogne. 

Those of you who have been to the Charente will undoubtedly have heard of Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine made by blending grape juice with Cognac. Floc de Gascogne is similar but made with Armagnac instead of Cognac. It was delicious. We also had some bread and meats all made locally, specifically from the local black pig, Noir de Bigorre.

This was followed by veal chops, local asparagus, which is currently in season, with lemon juice, salad, and some bread. It was one of those simple meals that was ridiculously tasty. Naturally, this was washed down with more local wine and finished with a rather nice rice pudding dessert. It’s safe to say Jenine knows how to look after her guests.

The Village of Bassoues

Before we had dinner, though, Jenine took me for a wander around the village. Bassoues instantly won me over. It is the kind of place where life moves at a slower pace and every corner feels steeped in history. 

It was founded in the 13th century by the Archbishops of Auch and established as a bastide, a fortified town designed for defense and commerce. The first thing we saw walking up from Jenine’s house was the imposing 43-meter-high donjon, aka tower, constructed in 1371 under the direction of Archbishop Arnaud Aubert. It dominates the skyline and has panoramic views of the surrounding Gascon countryside. 

The covered market hall dates back to the 16th century, but isn’t currently used as a market, which is a shame. Apparently, since the local restaurant, which sits to the side of the market, closed, the locals haven’t used the facilities as much. I couldn’t resist poking my had inside the abandoned restaurant as the door was wide open. There are rumors that it will open its doors again soon, hopefully restoring the market to its former glory. 

Everywhere you look, you see beautiful medieval buildings, some of which are home to artisan shops selling everything from handmade pottery to local Armagnac. 

Nearby, the Basilica of Saint Fris honors the local hero who, according to legend, died in battle against the Saracens in the 8th century. His tomb became a pilgrimage site. Wandering around Bassoues, it was easy to feel the weight of history at every turn.

As I stood under the ancient wooden beams of the 16th-century covered market, I couldn’t help but think about all the farmers, traders, and travelers who had gathered here over the centuries. 

The Cittaslow Town of Mirande

The next morning, the rain put a stop to our planned eBike tour, but it didn’t dampen our spirits. Like all good hosts, Jenine had a Plan B, and we headed to Mirande, a 13th-century bastide town nestled along the Baïse River. Founded in 1281, Mirande was designed with a grid layout typical of bastide towns, featuring a central square and intersecting streets. 

Its medieval beginnings are everywhere, from the remnants of fortifications to the impressive Sainte-Marie Church, a Gothic structure with unique flying buttresses that span the street below. It’s very cool, and I couldn’t resist getting a photo of it underneath it.

Foodies, listen up. Mirande proudly holds the Cittaslow label, an international label given by a non-profit organization created in 1999. It’s closely associated with the Italian “Slow Food” association and opposes “fast food.”

The Cittaslow label recognizes towns prioritizing quality of life, community, and sustainable living. As Jenine is all about slow food and sustainability, this town fits perfectly into her tours.

As we were keen to start the day, we skipped breakfast on the promise of a visit to a local boulangerie in Mirande, and OMG, am I glad I waited. I had what is possibly the best individual quiche I’ve ever had. It was cheesy and full of chorizo. My mouth is watering just thinking about it now.

Oddly enough, when Jenine went for a quiche one weekend, she was told they don’t do quiches on weekends. She has no idea why, although I did ask. This is another one of those French idiosyncrasies I will never know or understand.

After tucking into our quiches, we headed to the local art gallery, The Museum of Fine and Decorative Arts, for a little culture. I must say, I was surprised at how big it was for a small town. There was some seriously impressive artwork there, including a collection of 15th to 19th-century Italian, Flemish, and French paintings. We spent a very pleasant hour or so looking at the paintings, sculptures, and ceramics. Joseph Delort, a Mirandais (local to Mirande) and art-lover, started the collection.

It’s rare to see stone houses in the Gers, which is very different from the Charente, where I live, where stone buildings are everywhere. Here, houses, mostly from the 18th and 19th centuries, have wooden beams hidden under a layer of roughcast. The original medieval houses are long gone, unable to last through the ages.

Lupiac the Birthplace of d’Artagnan

Next, we headed off to Lupiac, and as a history geek, this one excited me as it is the birthplace of the legend d’Artagnan. I couldn’t wait to learn more. I visited Bergerac last year to learn about the legend of Cyrano de Bergerac, and the two were closely linked. Alina met us at the Lupiac tourism board, a wonderful French lady who knew everything there was to know about d’Artagnan and the man who brought him to life for us, Alexander Dumas.

It was a fascinating tour, and it was wonderful to hear that from everything written about him, d’Artagnan was indeed a noble, kind, and decent man, despite being a killing machine. He was also the best mate of Louis XIV, so much so that Louis was the godfather of his children.

Now, Louis didn’t have many mates, and when d’Artagnan finally fell in battle, Louis was devastated at losing the one man he was close to.

Unfortunately, there is very little recorded about the man himself because all records that would have told us more were destroyed in the French Revolution. However, every other year, the town of Lupiac comes together to host the d’Artagnan Festival.

All year, the town’s residents busy themselves with the preparations, from sewing costumes for the reenactors to this year, creating a life-size replica carriage that belonged to the man himself. D’artagnan had two carriages, one with two seats and the other with four seats, his ceremonial carriage.

This is no mean feat, as the only example of a carriage like this is in the Lisbon Coach Museum, as all others were destroyed during the revolution of 1789. This year’s festival in August will be quite the event.

Lupiac is a lovely town, and as you can imagine, extremely proud of its heritage. In the middle of the town square, there is a huge statue of d’Artagnan on his horse. Here’s a little bit of trivia for you: did you know that if a statue is of a horse with two feet in the air, it means the person riding him died in battle. Fascinating little tidbit.

Aignan: A Town Steeped in History

Next stop was lunch in a lovely town called Aignan. Although I only stopped in Aignan for lunch, the town’s history is far too interesting not to share. Once a fortified village, Aignan still has traces of its old defensive walls and water points, remnants of the medieval ditches that once protected it.

Local historian and native Abbot JJ Monlezun, born in the nearby hamlet of Lacahuze, traced Aignan’s creation back to 606. According to his History of Gascony, the town was founded by the chancellor of Alaric II, a man named Aignan or Anianus, who drafted the famous Code of Aignan to help the conquered peoples living under Alaric’s rule. 

Other sources suggest Aignan was founded slightly later, around 620, by a Gascon lord named Anianus, a favorite of King Clotaire II. Either way, Aignan’s roots go back to the early 7th century, making it one of the oldest towns in the region.

Aignan also played a major role in Armagnac’s history. It was the first capital and even served as the seat of the Parliament of Gascony from the 10th century. When the County of Armagnac was officially founded in 960 by the Count of Fezensac, Aignan was already an important center of power. 

In the 14th century, Aignan continued to hold strategic importance. In 1338, Lord Luppé was appointed Commander of the Captaincy of Aignan by Lord Albret. At that time, a tall pentagonal tower, around 25 meters high, dominated the central square. It kept a visual link with several neighboring villages, acting as a lookout.

This tower, a leftover from the Château des Ducs de Bouillon, eventually collapsed one Sunday afternoon in 1868. The town decided to demolish what was left for safety reasons. Its stones were saved and later used to build the current Town Hall, completed in 1890.

Aignan’s history also includes periods of devastation. In 1355, the town suffered attacks from Edward of Woodstock, better known as the Black Prince. His forces pillaged and burned Aignan, which explains why almost no ancient archives survive today.

In 1465, the Dowager of Bouillon donated the Naoucrouts Forest to the town, along with a large house on the square that served as a hospital. In exchange, the town agreed to an annual symbolic payment of a pair of white gloves. The forest still belongs to the town today and includes a leisure center for visitors and locals to enjoy.

Aignan’s legacy extends into modern times as well. During the First World War, Paul Fontan, a native of Aignan born in 1880, became a notable figure. He served as an officer in the French gendarmerie and was involved in the capture of the infamous Bonnot Gang before dying in battle on the Somme in 1914.

During the Second World War, Aignan and the surrounding area were active in the Resistance. Figures such as Colonel Parisot, Jean Laborde, Abel Sempé, and Colonel Thomas Guerrero, known as “Camillo,” made significant contributions. Nearby, in Averon-Bergelle, the Armagnac Battalion was formed, later playing a key role in liberating Royan and the Île d’Oléron.

Domaine de Bilé: A Family Legacy in the Heart of Gascony

My final stop on this whirlwind tour was a private visit to Domaine de Bilé, a family-run estate nestled in the rolling hills of Gascony. Established in 1973 by Francis Della Vedove, the domaine has remained in the family ever since. Today, it’s managed by the second and third generations. Lisa and her mother handle everything from marketing and events to conducting tours, offering visitors an intimate glimpse into their world of winemaking and Armagnac production.

During my visit, Lisa guided me through the estate, sharing the meticulous process of crafting Armagnac. Unlike Cognac, which undergoes double distillation, Armagnac is distilled only once using a traditional continuous still known as an “alambic armagnacais.” This method preserves more of the grape’s natural flavors, resulting in a richer, more robust spirit. After distillation, the eau-de-vie is aged in oak barrels, developing its complex character over time.

The tasting session was a highlight. I sampled two of their red wines: one full-bodied, brimming with depth and structure, and another lighter, offering a more delicate profile. Both were delightful in their own right. The Armagnac, however, was the star. Smooth, aromatic, and warming, it encapsulated the essence of the region. 

Domaine de Bilé also has accommodation on site, Casa Della, renovated in 2024. It was once home to Lisa’s grandparents, who started it all off, and rather than see it go to waste, it’s now been repurposed and is perfect for anyone wanting to stay among the vines and experience the peaceful countryside firsthand. There are some lovely family pictures above the fireplace in the main room where breakfast is served, showing the family at the estate through the ages.

They host various events throughout the year, including picnics in the vineyards, open-air concerts, farmers’ markets, and lively tasting evenings that bring locals and visitors together.

Marciac: A Bastide Town with a Global Beat

Although I didn’t make it to Marciac on this trip, it’s firmly on my list for next time. This small bastide town in the Gers transforms every summer into a global hub for jazz enthusiasts. Since its inception in 1978, the Jazz in Marciac festival has grown into one of Europe’s premier jazz events, attracting over 200,000 visitors annually. 

The lineup reads like a who’s who of jazz legends. Past performers include Ray Charles, Diana Krall, Wynton Marsalis, and one of my favorites, Nora Jones. This year, the festival boasts none other than Santana, a testament to its international acclaim.

Beyond the festival, Marciac itself is worth a visit. Founded in 1298, the town retains its medieval charm with a central square surrounded by arcaded buildings, perfect for leisurely strolls and outdoor dining. The town’s commitment to jazz isn’t limited to the festival; it’s woven into the fabric of daily life, with jazz education in schools and year-round concerts at venues like L’Astrada.

Wrapping Up My Gers Adventure

My short trip to the Gers was packed with discoveries, delicious food, fascinating history, and warm hospitality that makes you feel like you belong. Every stop offered something special from the medieval beauty of Bassoues and the lively streets of Mirande to the deep roots of Aignan and the family traditions at Domaine de Bilé. Even though the weather changed my plans more than once, it just gave me more reasons to slow down and soak it all in.

There is something truly authentic about the Gers. It is where life moves to a different rhythm, food and wine are celebrated, and history is not locked behind museum doors but is part of everyday life. Whether you are tasting Armagnac, exploring centuries-old villages, or planning your visit around the world-famous jazz festival in Marciac, the Gers invites you to experience France at its most genuine.

One thing is certain. This will not be my last visit. There is still so much more to see, taste, and discover in this beautiful corner of southwest France.