Things To Do in Eze, The Medieval Jewel in the French Riviera Crown

Last updated on January 6th, 2025 at 02:52 pm

If you’ve never been to Èze in the French Riviera, you’re missing out. It’s one of the prettiest medieval hilltop villages close to Villefranche sur Mer. You’ll feel like you’re walking through the pages of a fairytale book as you climb up into the village. 

The coastline views are nothing short of spectacular, and it’s one of the most stunning drives in the world. The Moyenne Corniche, the road between Menton and Nice, is the sort of road that convertible sports cars were made for. Although I wouldn’t drive, I’d be sporting a beautiful headscarf and taking in the scenery while someone else drives me.

Everywhere you look, you find echoes of the past; if you listen carefully, you can hear the walls whispering their secrets. Each passageway revealing something different—a hidden corner, a doorway leading to unseen lives, or a view that seems to pull you back in time. There are plenty of things to do in Eze, and it truly is a magical place you’ll want to return to time and time again.

Where is the Village of Èze

Èze is on the Côte d’Azur, the stunning Mediterranean coastline of southeastern France. It’s famous for its azure waters, sun-drenched beaches, and dramatic cliffs. Positioned between Nice and Monaco, Èze is part of the stretch from the Italian border to Cassis. 

Just 12 kilometers from Nice, Èze is only a short 20-minute drive, but the principality of Monaco is even closer, just 8 kilometers from Èze. Further along the Riviera, about 40 kilometers west of Èze, lies Saint-Paul de Vence. This historic hilltop village has been an artist’s haven for decades, attracting the likes of Marc Chagall and Pablo Picasso, who found inspiration in its stone streets and beautiful vistas. As it’s only a 45-minute drive, it’s a perfect day trip from Èze.

About 55 kilometers from Èze, or an hour’s drive, is Grasse, the world’s perfume capital. This scenic town in the hills is famous for its perfume houses and workshops, where visitors can immerse themselves in the art of fragrance-making. 

Top Èze Travel Tip

Be warned: Èze is popular and gets extremely crowded. Plan your trip to arrive early, and by early, I mean around 8 a.m., before the tourists start to swarm from 10 a.m. onwards. This will give you two hours of relative quiet to enjoy the village in peace. At this time, you might even be able to hear the sounds of the ocean as you walk through the old streets. It’s absolutely magical at this time of day.

I’d also advise leaving your car behind at your accommodation and taking the bus. The car parks get full, and the main streets are pedestrianized, so getting in and out can be hard. The bus also allows you to sit back and enjoy the views without worrying about driving or finding a parking space.

If you can, plan your trip for late Autumn or winter. I went in July, and it was horribly crowded. However, when I returned in late March, it was quiet and without the crowds, and the weather was lovely, too.

The History of the Medieval Village of Èze

Around 220 BC, local communities settled on the rocky promontory of what is now Èze, drawn by the natural protection it offered. Remnants of the ancient protective walls from this period still stand in the village, providing a glimpse into its early defensive architecture. 

The villagers, known as the “Ezasques,” built their homes in the protective shadow of the rocks, tucked away from main access routes to keep them safe from invaders. In the second half of the 12th century, the Lords of Èze constructed a fortress on this strategic spot.

To defend it, the Counts of Provence, and later the Dukes of Savoy, appointed loyal soldiers known as “Castellans.” These soldiers, stationed for a year, pledged to guard the castle, ensuring it would never fall into enemy hands.

By 1706, during the War of the Spanish Succession, King Louis XIV of France ordered the destruction of Èze’s fortress. This stronghold belonged to the rival Dukes of Savoy, and the French king was determined to eliminate any future threats to his realm.

During the Belle Époque, Èze’s attracted its first wave of tourists. Seeking a clifftop adventure, a few brave visitors to the region climbed up the rocky path to get to the top and find the ruins of the chateau. This began the discovery of Èze as a tourist destination, and life in the village sprung up once more.

Things To Do in Èze

Art, clothing, and home decor boutiques sit between historic facades. Colorful bougainvillea displays and enticing windows invite you to browse, often in tiny, centuries-old rooms where you never know what you might find. Every piece, every corner, and every quiet moment here feels inspired, like Eze itself—a place where history and creativity live side by side.

So the first thing I’d suggest you do is simply wander the streets to see what you find. It’s the best way to discover the village properly. You’ll find yourself disappearing down passageways and finding beautiful boutiques, art stores, and so much more.

Èze Jardin Exotique

You can’t go to Eze without visiting Jardin Exotique. It’s at the very top of the village and sits in the ruins of the old castle, offering the most stunning views imaginable. Sitting 429 meters above the Mediterranean Sea, the panorama sweeps across the coast, reaching as far as the Esterel Mountains and the Gulf of Saint Tropez.

The south-facing side of the garden is filled with various succulents and xerophytes from every continent, each species thriving in the Mediterranean sun. On the north side, with its shaded caves and cascading waterfall, the garden shelters plants from the Mediterranean and other humid climates, creating a lush, tranquil contrast. 

There is no other word for it other than stunning. It’s a riot of color and smells, as the exotic plants stimulate your senses in every way possible. I’m not surprised that it’s received two awards: the “Regional Special Prize for Flowering” and the “Remarkable Garden” label.

It was built just after the Second World War with men carrying heavy bags of soil and plants up the steep path to the castle ruins, where only a few walls remained standing. It was the brainchild of André Gianton, the mayor at the time, with the support of Jean Gastaud, creator of Monaco’s famous Exotic Garden. 

Together, they envisioned an exotic garden in Èze’s rocky heights. The Revère Plateau is shielded from the chilly northern winds, while the natural slope of the terrain provides excellent drainage. In short, it was a perfect spot to plant hardy succulents like cacti, agave, and aloes.

Photographs from that period show young cacti and euphorbias scattered across the rocky ground, some still in their pots, waiting to be planted. It was an ambitious project, but it quickly became a success, prompting a second phase of garden expansion not long after. 

Notre Dame de l’Assomption

If you love churches, don’t miss Notre Dame de l’Assomption. Built in the 18th century by the architect Antonio Spinelli, it was consecrated in 1772 and is listed as a French Historic Monument. You can’t help but see it as it stands out above the other buildings and is the lovely yellow color of many of the buildings you see in the south of France.

Unfortunately, the bell tower isn’t the original, as lightning has struck it a few times. The current tower was built in the 19th century.

It’s worth stepping inside, as although it’s not a particularly large church, it is beautiful inside, with chandelier lighting and gorgeous domed mural ceilings. More recently, between 1994 and 1995, the bell tower, roof, and exterior of the building underwent a major restoration. 

Enjoy the Views at Chateau Eza

If you’re looking for dramatic cliffside views, five-star luxury, and history, make sure you visit Chateau Eza. The views will quite literally leave you speechless. I don’t think I have ever seen anything quite like it in all my travels around the world.

As you can imagine, with a place like this, there is a price tag to go with it. Even a coffee will set you back 8 €. But if you have the chance to dine in the 50-seat Michelin Starred Restaurant, it’s an experience you’ll never forget. 

It was built 400 years ago within the medieval city walls and fell into rack and ruin until 1920. Prince William of Sweden fell in love with the village. He made it his royal residence, turning individual villager’s homes into part of the chateau. When he left Eze in 1953, those homes returned to their former use as individual properties.

It wasn’t until 1976 that things began to happen again. Andre Rochat, the Red Cross’ general delegate, started buying up the houses and set about returning Chateau Eza to its former glory. In 1987, it officially became a hotel, but not like any other you’ll have ever been to.

For a start, there are only 14 rooms, and behind walls of exposed rock over a foot thick, you’ll find rooms featuring fireplaces with rustic mantles, four poster beds, stained-glass windows, exposed oak beams, and beautifully crafted parquet floors. 

The hotel is a maze of corridors, and you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d gone back in time to the 14th century. Any minute, you expect to see a knight in shining armor stepping out of the shadows to escort you to dinner.

The Weekly Markets in Èze

Markets are a way of life in France, and there is nothing quite like buying your fruit and veg fresh from the local farmers. I always love to hunt down the cheese stall, as this is where you’ll find the best local French cheese. It’s hard to resist, and I never can.

In Eze, the weekly market is on a Sunday at Place de la Colette. There are only a handful of stalls, so I advise getting there early before all the best produce goes. It’s a wonderful experience; you’ll feel like a local wandering around with your basket.

If you fancy a more seaside setting, Eze-sur-Mer has a local market on a Friday where you’ll find plenty of seafood and local food. Plus, you have the added bonus of the Mediterranean as your backdrop.

Walk Nietzsche’s trail

Friedrich Nietzsche, one of the most influential philosophers of the 19th century, found a deep connection to the natural beauty of the French Riviera during his stay in Eze. He stayed in one of Eze’s oldest houses, and the scenic climb up to the village inspired the third part of his celebrated work, Thus Spoke Zarathustra.

He arrived on December 2, 1883, staying until April 20, 1884. At the time, Nietzsche was in a troubled state of mind; his books were underappreciated, he had recently clashed with composer Richard Wagner, and his relationship with Lou Andreas-Salomé had unraveled.

On the Riviera, however, Nietzsche found a creative energy that reinvigorated him. “Here, I grow in the sun as a plant grows,” he wrote to his friend Peter Gast. He describes the “splendid plenitude of light” as having a miraculous effect on his spirit. 

The philosopher often walked the rugged paths through olive trees, euphorbia, and holm oak, with the beautiful Mediterranean as his backdrop. For Nietzsche, these walks were essential to his writing process. “I could, without feeling tired, spend seven or eight hours in the mountains,” he remarked, adding that he felt rejuvenated, slept well, and often laughed.

Today, visitors can trace Nietzsche’s footsteps along the “Nietzsche Path” from Eze station to the village. The route connects Eze Village to Eze-sur-Mer, a steep 400-meter climb that takes around 1.5 hours. The descent takes about 45 minutes, so sturdy shoes are recommended for the journey. It’s not for the fainthearted, but it’s worth it. Make sure you take a bottle of water with you, especially during the warmer months.

Where to Stay in Èze

Chateau Eza 

Chateau Eza was always going to be my first pick. It’s five-star luxury all the way, combined with gourmet food and more history than you can shake a stick at. Be ready for your wallet to take a beating, but it is 100% worth it.

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La Chèvre d’O

Another luxury stay in Eze is La Chèvre d’O. It’s in the heart of the village with amazing views and a suite named after Nietzsche. Their gourmet restaurant has two Michelin stars, and the food is incredible and lives up to the hype.

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Les Terrasses d’Eze

Set in the hills of Eze, Les Terrasses d’Eze is a short walk from the village. It’s designed to give the look and feel of being on board a ship and is another fabulous option. They have the added bonus of a spa and wellness area and for pure indulgence, I can recommend the flotation chamber, it is heavenly.

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How to get to Èze from Nice

You can reach Èze by car, bus, or train from Nice. If you’re driving, take the scenic Grande Corniche route, which provides stunning Riviera views, or the Moyenne Corniche for a quicker but equally picturesque journey. The drive takes about 20 minutes.

By bus, catch Bus 82 from Nice’s Vauban bus station, which runs directly to Èze Village, taking about 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can take the TER train from Nice-Ville station to Èze-sur-Mer, transfer to Bus 83, or walk the challenging Nietzsche Path up to the village. The total journey by public transport takes around 45 minutes to an hour, depending on connections.

FAQs About Visiting Èze

Final Thoughts on Visiting the French Village of Èze

I have visited many villages in France and Eze is in my top ten most beautiful. However, that list does keep changing with my travels. What I will say, though, is you won’t be disappointed.

There is no view to rival the views from the rocky outlook at the top of the village.The south of France, particularly the French Riviera, is a tourist hotspot. It’s also become a popular retirement destination for many Brits and Americans, and I can completely understand why.

What a wonderful place to spend your downtime and the latter years of your life; I can’t think of anywhere better.