Autumn in France Is Unforgettable: From Grape Harvests to Fall Colors It’s a Magical Time of Year

It’s hard to say which season is the best, but Autumn in France is absolutely stunning. Each region is different, but certainly, where I am in the Charente, the weather is mild. We often have an Indian summer, and the countryside is a riot of colors cascading together, taking your breath away.

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The leaves fall from trees, and the floor is awash with burnt orange, russet red, conker brown, and mustard yellow. It’s the best time of year for photographers to capture places like the Dordogne. But it’s also a time for the harvest. The apples are picked and pressed, just like the grapes, and the winter vegetables take over.

The fields near us are full of the biggest pumpkins you’ve ever seen, turnips, and a lovely variety of purple cabbage. The hunt, so popular in France, resumes, accompanied by festivals such as Beaujolais Nouveau and meaningful events like Armistice Day and All Saints’ Day.

The Eiffel Tower framed by trees with vibrant autumn foliage. The leaves in hues of orange and yellow contrast with the iconic structure, and a vintage street lamp adds a classic Parisian touch.

What Happens During Autumn in France

One of the things I love about this time of year is the evenings. They are so clear and crisp, with the sky full of twinkling stars as far as the eye can see. When I come home around 10 p.m. from my line dancing class on a Wednesday evening, I often stand outside for a while, looking at the sky and listening to the owls softly hooting away. It’s simply magical.

A peaceful water body with reflections of trees on the calm surface. The scene is framed by branches with orange and yellow leaves, indicating a crisp, clear autumn day under a bright blue sky.

Harvest Time in France

It’s also the time of year when our kitchens in rural France come into their own, especially in September and October. I often go into mine to find that one of my neighbors has left some vegetables on my kitchen table.

Sometimes, it’s mushrooms foraged from the woods, and other times, it’s carrots, onions, and a variety of different vegetables from the fields behind us, owned by Claud, the farmer in our little village.

The French are very generous with their crops, and I love how the community shares what they have. For my part, I turn whatever I get into soup and then give some to the people who so kindly donated the vegetables, my way of saying thank you. It’s country life at its best.

Several jars of homemade preserves arranged on a wooden table. The jars are labeled "Fait-Maison" (homemade) and contain a variety of preserved fruits, set against a rustic stone wall and wooden door backdrop.

I recently made twelve jars of tomato chutney from a large haul of green tomatoes I harvested from my potager (vegetable garden in French). I was so excited to have over 3 kg this year that I decided to make spicy tomato and apple chutney. It will make the perfect Christmas pressie, along with some homemade mince pies.

Fête des Vendanges

One of the things I love the most about this time of year is Fête des Vendanges, the grape harvest. The wine regions come alive, celebrating the harvest with some wine estates inviting the public in to help pick the grapes.

A woman wearing a backpack and a sun hat dressed in blue shorts and wearing sunglasses showing a bag of grapes she has just picked in France

I’ve done this several times, and it’s such a fun experience. Last year, I was invited to participate in the harvest at Pierre Lecat Cognac in the Charente. What a great day that was. There is nothing like getting close to nature in that way and being a part of something that ends up as a bottle of wine.

It was tiring as there were a lot of grapes to pick, which were emptied into a big trailer and taken back to the main area. We then watched them being pressed and drank some of the grape juice. It was a beautiful sunny Autumn day, and lunch was outside on the terrace, accompanied by a glass or two of the estate wine.

A woman in a sun hat with sunglasses wearing blue shorts and a blue top holding a bottle of grape juice freshly pressed and a man in shorts stood behind her

I highly recommend doing this if you have the chance. It’s a great experience, and you learn a lot about the wine-making process while sampling what’s on offer.

Beaujolais Nouveau

Beaujolais Nouveau is a young wine from the Beaujolais region in eastern France. In the 19th century, local winemakers produced a simple, quickly fermented wine using the Gamay grape. Locals enjoyed this wine to celebrate the end of the harvest.

In 1951, French wine authorities allowed the early sale of Beaujolais wines, marking the birth of “Beaujolais Nouveau.” The release of this wine became a festive tradition, with the first bottles being sent to Paris, where bars and cafes would host lively celebrations.

A sign promoting Beaujolais day with two bunches of black grapes

By the 1970s, the event had become a nationwide phenomenon, thanks to clever marketing and media coverage. The slogan “Le Beaujolais nouveau est arrivé!” (The Beaujolais Nouveau has arrived!) turned the release into a national event.

Beaujolais Nouveau Day is celebrated every year on the third Thursday of November. Traditionally, the wine can’t be sold or consumed before midnight on this day. I’ve been to a few of these parties, and they’re so much fun, although they can be a little messy if you indulge too much, which many people do.

National Events

La Toussaint, or All Saints’ Day, is celebrated on November 1st in France. It honors all saints, known and unknown, and remembers deceased loved ones. Many French people visit cemeteries to place flowers, usually chrysanthemums, on the graves of family members. It’s recognized as a public holiday in France.

Lots of vases full of Chrysanthemums sitting on graves in a cemetery in France with mountains in the bacoground

Halloween is recognized in France, but isn’t as big as in places like the UK or the US.

Armistice Day, known as “Jour de l’Armistice” in France, is commemorated on November 11th to mark the end of World War I in 1918. It honors the soldiers who fought and died during the war, as well as those who have served in subsequent conflicts.

There are ceremonies across France, including a national event at the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, where the President lays a wreath at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. It’s a public holiday, and many French people wear blue cornflowers, a symbol of remembrance.

Places to Visit During the Fall in France

Where to go during this time really depends on what you enjoy doing, but these are some of my favorite places I’ve visited during the Autumn months.

The Dordogne

The Dordogne is the next department from the Charente, where I live. The two departments are very similar, with their rolling hills and stunning countryside. Autumn is the perfect time to explore the beautiful medieval villages in all their Autumn glory.

A narrow, stone-lined street in the village of Curemonte, Dordogne, with an old building featuring a pointed slate roof in the background. The scene is framed by lush greenery and hints of autumn leaves scattered along the pathway, set under a clear blue sky.

The market produce is fantastic, too, and in places like Sarlat, you’ll see an abundance of truffles, which the region is famous for. Walnuts are another regional specialty; the walnut wine is especially good, but be warned: It can get you very tipsy.

Then there are the chateaux in the Dordogne, although they are more like castles you’d see in England. Some date back to the 11th century, and seeing them basking in the Autumn sun with the seasonal foliage all around is hard to beat.

The Loire Valley

The Loire Valley really is the land of the chateaux, and with so many to choose from, it’s hard to know where to start. But if you’re a history geek like me, then this is the perfect season to plan your trip because it’s so much quieter. The whole valley is a blanket of Autumn colors, from reds to yellows.

A view of the grand Chateau de Chambord surrounded by a canopy of autumn trees with vibrant orange and yellow leaves. The road leading up to the chateau creates a sense of depth, highlighting the castle's majestic architecture against a soft, overcast sky.

As you get towards the end of the year in December, the chateaux go to town and put on a show like no other. Many of them “dress” for Christmas. It’s a spectacular display of lights, trees, and decorations, offering a brief glimpse into how magical these places would have been centuries ago.

At this time of year, places like Chenonceau and Chambord host workshops, theatrical plays, fireworks displays, and more. The gardens are still worth exploring, too, especially at Villandy. But the best way to see them is from the skies. Imagine floating above the chateau in a hot-air balloon and looking down from above.

The French Alps

Most people associate the French Alps with skiing, and why not? They have some of the best ski runs in the world. However, visiting during the Fall is a totally different experience. The lake at Annecy is particularly beautiful at this time of year.

A red and white paddle boat floating on the calm waters of Lake Annecy, surrounded by autumn scenery. The background features towering mountains with a warm, golden hue from the setting sun, and reeds line the shoreline, adding to the serene, picturesque atmosphere of the scene.

Keep in mind that some resorts shut down in November as they prepare for the upcoming busy winter ski season. But if you stay in one of the smaller villages rather than the big resorts, it’s a wonderful time to explore the region. The majestic mountains are just as stunning without the huge snow coverage as they are with it.

Autumn is perfect for hiking in the Alps, with cooler temperatures and stunning landscapes. The changing foliage transforms the valleys and mountainsides into a sea of red, orange, and gold. Trails in places like Chamonix, Annecy, and the Vanoise National Park offer breathtaking views, especially as the snow begins to dust the highest peaks.

Occitanie Region

The Occitanie region is home to one of my favorite French cities, the walled city of Carcassonne. Every time I visit, I try to imagine what it would have been like to approach on horseback and look up at that double-walled fortification. Would the archers have been looking out?

Would there have been sentries on duty walking the walls? How imposing it would have looked high up on the hill.

An old bridge going over a river with buildings either side in the late afternoon sun

In the Autumn months, when all the tourists have gone home, the Cité is much quieter, and it’s a great time to visit and walk the cobbled streets. It’s also the perfect time to try the popular local dish, Cassoulet. It warms the cockles of your heart and is so tasty.

A serene canal in Narbonne lined with historic buildings and leafy trees displaying hints of autumn colors. The foreground features vibrant pink and purple flowers on a railing, while the calm water reflects the surrounding architecture under a partly cloudy blue sky.

I’d also recommend adding Narbonne to your list. It’s an often overlooked place, but so worth visiting. Make sure you visit the Narbonne market. It’s quite an experience and is one of the best covered markets I’ve been to in France.

Another thing to do is climb the steps of Donjon Gilles Aycelin to get a 360-degree panoramic view from the top. It’s absolutely breathtaking, but be warned: There are a lot of steep steps, so do it before lunch rather than after.

Alsace

Alsace is like exploring the magical mind of Walt Disney. Some of the pretty little medieval villages here are said to be the inspiration for the latest Beauty and the Beast movie. But more than that, there are the villages themselves with their half-timbered buildings, waterways, and colorful buildings.

Cobblestone street in a quaint European town with traditional half-timbered houses in bright yellow and orange, adorned with lush green plants and flowers, under a cloudy sky.

If you’re a wine lover, the Alsace Wine Route is worth doing, as you’ll get to try some of the region’s famous Rieslings and Gewürztraminers. And then there are the castles. Some are more ruins, but I highly recommend making time to see Haut-Kœnigsbourg.

In December, this entire region comes alive as it becomes Christmas central. From the larger markets in Strasbourg and Colmar to the smaller ones in Kayserberg and Euigsheim, it’s like entering a winter wonderland.

Paris

I’ve left Paris until last because it’s usually at the top of everyone’s list if they come to France. However, Paris in the fall is truly beautiful. It’s not as busy as the spring and summer months, but you can still enjoy the cafe culture that Paris is so famous for and watch the world go by.

A charming cobblestone street in Montmartre lined with buildings partially covered in autumn leaves. The scene is framed by overhanging branches with vibrant red and orange foliage, leading to a classic Parisian building in the background, creating a picturesque, cozy autumn atmosphere.

My favorite place to do this is in Montmartre, Artist’s Square. It’s nowhere near as crowded as other times of year, and many of the cafes have blankets and heaters to keep you warm on those chilly days. It’s the perfect way to while away a magical afternoon.

As you get into November, Paris offers some wonderful ghostly tours that lend themselves well to the more inclement weather. You’re also likely to see some pretty spectacular Halloween displays here, as it’s more popular in Paris than in other regions of France.

If you’re brave enough, take a trip to Père Lachaise cemetery when the weather is moodier, as it has a very different feel than on a sunny day.

A spooky looking cemetery in Paris at night in the fog with a pathway going through the graves

My top tip would be to take advantage of a tour of Versailles as it’s much less busy, and you won’t get jostled as you move from room to room. Unfortunately, the gardens are not as good, with some statues covered and things like the fountains shut down for the winter. But it gives you more time to explore inside.

FAQs About France During the Autumn Months

What month is autumn in France?

Autumn in France begins in September and ends in November. The season typically features a gradual cooling of temperatures and a change in foliage, with the peak of fall colors occurring in October.

How do the French celebrate autumn?

The French celebrate autumn with harvest festivals, wine tastings, and food markets, showcasing seasonal produce like mushrooms, chestnuts, and pumpkins. Many regions also host grape harvest events in their vineyards, and cities organize fairs and cultural events to celebrate the season.

What is France like in October?

France in October is characterized by cooler temperatures, often ranging from 10°C to 18°C (50°F to 64°F). The countryside and parks come alive with vibrant fall colors, and tourist spots are generally less crowded, making it an ideal time for sightseeing and outdoor activities.

What are the characteristics of autumn in France?

Autumn in France is marked by mild, crisp weather, shorter days, and the vibrant colors of changing leaves. It’s also a season for regional food specialties, wine harvests, and cultural events, creating a cozy and festive atmosphere throughout the country.

Final Thoughts on Spending Autumn in France

France, at any time of the year, is fabulous, but I’m biased because I live here. If you enjoy learning about French culture and history, join me on the Life in Rural France podcast. I dive into the stories behind the villages, towns, and cities and glimpse what life is like in the French countryside.