La Rochelle’s Secret Past: From Knights Templar to Nazi Occupation

La Rochelle is on the coast of southwest France and is full of history. Like much history in France a lot of it dates back to the medieval period.

I live not far from La Rochelle, and its history makes for an interesting read.

From being a Knights Templar Stronghold in the middle ages to the Nazi occupation in WW2, this town has a lot of stories to tell, some gorier than others.

The Seige of La Rochelle saw an army of 7,000+ men descend upon the town to flush out the Huguenots, leading them to flee for their lives and re-establish themselves in the City of New Rochelle, New York.

As you walk around the town today, the history oozes from every wall, tower and cobbled street. If only they could talk and impart their knowledge to us. But as that’s not going to happen any time soon, you’ll just have to make do with me and all I’ve discovered about the history of La Rochelle over my many visits. Let’s dive in.

Listen To My Podcast Episode On La Rochelle

La Rochelle France Map

The History of La Rochelle in France

Due to its strategic location on the Atlantic coast, La Rochelle has a long maritime heritage. Established as a major port as early as the 12th century, it quickly became a crucial gateway for trade and commerce. 

The city’s independent spirit was marked by its early adoption of Protestant beliefs, leading it to become a stronghold for the Huguenots during the French Wars of Religion.

The earliest record of La Rochelle was in 961, when the Dukes of Aquitaine made a charter for a fortified city called Rupella, which was the original name derived from ancient Latin.

Eleanor of Aquitaine, my secret or not-so-secret girl crush and Queen of both France and England, recognized the potential in the port at La Rochelle and did business with England from there. 

When her father, William X, died, she inherited the Duchy of Aquitaine. He’d ensured that La Rochelle was granted quite a few privileges, including the ability to mint its own coins and exempt them from certain royal taxes.

When Eleanor married Henry Plantagenet, who became Henry II of England, La Rochelle fell under English rule. However, the French snatched it back during the Seige of La Rochelle by Louis VIII, son of Louis VII, Eleanor’s ex-husband.

The Knights Templar at La Rochelle (10th – 13th Century)

But the part of history that fascinates me is the Knights Templar. They were very active in the Poitou-Charente region, and close to where I live are several sites with Templar graves.

The Templars had a base in La Rochelle, their largest on the Atlantic Ocean, long before Eleanor came along, but in her Charter of 1139, she gave them mills and exempted them from tax duties.

They did a lot of trade from the port and acted as a go-between for trade between England and the Mediterranean.

Legend has it that on October 12, 1307, a fleet of 18 ships, packed to the rafters with treasure, took the Templars of La Rochelle far away, never to be seen again. 

And just in the nick of time, too, because the next day, on October 13 of the same year, King Philip IV issued an order for the arrest of all Knights Templar in France.

There are a few theories behind why the arrest happened, which I’m not going to go into now, but suffice it to say that hundreds of French Templars were arrested, tortured, and put to death for heresy and offenses against the crown.

The role of La Rochelle as a Huguenot stronghold during the French Wars of Religion

The Huguenots were French Protestants influenced by John Calvin’s teachings who emerged during a time of religious conflict in France. La Rochelle had adopted Protestant ideas during the Renaissance, and in the 1550s, the town saw an influx of Huguenots. 

In 1560, there were riots in both La Rochelle and the neighboring town of Royan, and the Protestants went on the rampage, destroying anything and everything pertaining to the Catholic faith, including 13 priests.

The protestants then got a boost in their fortunes when King Henry IV gave them extensive rights, known as the Edict of Nantes (1598). 

Unfortunately, it was short-lived. Henry IV was assassinated in 1610, and Louis XIII, under the regency of Marie de’ Medici, took over.

He was a Catholic and did not want the Protestants reigning supreme, and an intense period of persecution began.

The Siege of La Rochelle (1627-1628)

In 1627, Louis, together with his mate Cardinal Richelieu, took an army of 7,000 soldiers, over 550 horses, and 20+ cannons and surrounded La Rochelle, intent on barricading them in. 

They built a 7-mile-long fortified wall that blocked access in or out of the city. the idea being to starve them out.

The residents of La Rochelle were cut off from any form of help and had no access to food or any other vital supplies, and this went on for 14 months.

A town that once had a population of 27,000 went down to 5,000 due to the lack of food, disease, and, of course, casualties of war.

The siege ended with La Rochelle’s capitulation in October 1628, a significant blow to the Huguenot cause and a key step towards the consolidation of royal power in France.

In the aftermath, many of the city’s privileges were revoked, its fortifications destroyed, and its religious establishments converted to Catholicism, signaling the end of La Rochelle as a Huguenot power center.

La Rochelle, under Louis XIV’s rule

As you can imagine, after a siege like that, the town was on its knees. Under orders from Cardinal Richelieu, all fortifications had been dismantled to subdue the Huguenot stronghold, and things were pretty grim. 

Then, along came Louis XIV and ébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, Louis XIV’s famed military engineer, who revolutionized fortress construction across France.

Specific projects in La Rochelle during this period included the construction of new gates and the reinforcement of existing structures. The Porte Royale, for instance, was reconstructed to feature a more monumental design, reflecting the grandeur typical of Louis XIV’s reign. 

These changes helped to transform La Rochelle into a modern fortress city, aligning it with the Sun King’s vision of a centralized, fortified France.

The World War Era and La Rochelle

In the 19th and 20th centuries, La Rochelle continued to grow and modernize with the construction of new port facilities, a railway station, and other infrastructure projects.

During World War II, La Rochelle, once again, was pushed into the spotlight due to its strategic location on the French Atlantic coast and playing host to a major German submarine base. 

This base was part of Germany’s effort to strengthen its naval capabilities. The port was used to launch U-boat campaigns across the Atlantic.

As the war progressed, La Rochelle became one of the last French cities to be liberated. It was heavily fortified by German forces, turning into one of the so-called “Atlantic pockets.”

The Allied siege of La Rochelle took place from September 1944 until the German capitulation on May 7, 1945, which coincided with the general surrender of German forces. The day after the capitulation, French troops entered La Rochelle, marking its liberation on May 8, 1945.

The submarine pens built during the war were massive concrete structures designed to withstand bombing raids and protect the submarines docked inside. 

These structures still exist, and you can visit some of them. They have been used in various films and even served as a setting for the sequel to the movie Das Boot​.

The Myths and Legends of La Rochelle

I love a good legend, and in France, we have so many of them, and La Rochelle has a few of its own. 

Knowing the myths and stories behind a city is always helpful if you’re planning to visit or stay there.

One of the most famous legends of La Rochelle is the story of the town’s patron saint, Saint Nicolas. According to legend, Saint Nicolas was born in the city and became a famous bishop known for his miracles.

He was particularly famous for his ability to control the sea and calm the storms that plagued the area. To this day, Saint Nicolas is still revered as the protector of La Rochelle and its sailors.

Another famous legend is that of the “Rochelais Dragon,” who terrorized the city in the Middle Ages. The dragon was said to be a fearsome beast with sharp claws, fire-breathing, and a massive wingspan.

The people of La Rochelle were so afraid of the dragon that they built a wall around the city to keep it out.

However, legend has it that one brave young man named Guillaume defeated the dragon, saving the city from certain destruction.

FAQS: History Of La Rochelle

Final thoughts: History Facts About La Rochelle in France

La Rochelle is such a beautiful town it’s hard to imagine all the many conflicts that took place there over the years. 

Surrounded by gorgeous beaches and the Atlantic Ocean, it has everything, including some great restaurants serving some of the best seafood I’ve ever had.

If you’re looking for somewhere to stay, there are some great B&Bs within walking distance of the main town. My favourite is Escale Rochelaise as it has a hot tub!

And you have the islands of Ile d’Oléron and Île de Ré close by too.