10 Storybook Places to Visit in the Dordogne to Add to Your Bucket List this Summer

The Dordogne is a stunning region in southwest France that is a favorite with the British, but not so highly talked about in the American press. So if you don’t know the area and you love history, you’re in for a treat. It’s got some of the most beautifully preserved medieval villages, and you can’t go far without finding a prehistoric cave or several.

It’s home to the famous black truffle, fabulous for hiking, and, along with the department of Aveyron, has the highest number (ten in total) of what the French classify as “plus beaux villages de France.” And don’t get me started on the chateaux. The famous Josephine Baker had her chateau here, Château des Milandes.

If you love the thought of canoeing along the river, surrounded by gorgeous countryside, you can do that too. Aside from the truffles, this part of France is also brimming with delectable goodies, including foie gras, confit de canard, truffles, strawberries, walnuts, and, of course, wine. So now that I’ve sold you on the virtues of the Dordogne, let’s discover some of the breathtaking, not-to-miss places to see.

A Quick Look at the Dordogne Region

The Dordogne covers what was once the old province of Périgord, and it’s still split into four distinct areas, each with its own personality.

The Four Faces of Périgord

Périgord Vert takes up the northern slice of the map. Its rolling, wooded landscapes are broken up by pockets of heathland and small villages. Nontron sits at its centre, and the population is spread thin, giving it a quiet, open feel.

Périgord Blanc lies to the northwest. This is where you’ll find Périgueux, the department’s capital. The area gets its name from the pale limestone that shapes both the landscape and the buildings.

Périgord Pourpre is in the southwest and centres on Bergerac. It’s wine country through and through, with vineyards producing everything from sweet Monbazillac to robust reds like Pécharmant. The name comes from the colour of grape skins at harvest time.

Périgord Noir covers the east, with Sarlat as its star. Thick holm oak forests give the area its name. It’s the most visited part of the Dordogne, packed with castles, caves, and historic villages.

The Dordogne River

The Dordogne River runs for about 500 kilometers, starting in the Massif Central where two smaller rivers, the Dorde and the Dogne, meet. It flows through several departments before reaching the Atlantic.

In the past, it was a vital route for moving goods by boat. The traditional vessels, called gabarres, were often dismantled at the end of their journey and taken back upstream by horse and cart because parts of the river were too wild to navigate.

10 Storybook Places to Visit in the Dordogne

It’s impossible to list all the places in this region as it covers such a wide area, and, of course, the places I love might not be the places you love. This type of thing is subjective, so I’m hoping I’ve given you a good cross-section that covers all tastes.

No. 1 ​​Brantôme

We’re starting off with one of the heavy hitters, Brantôme. Nothing quite prepares you for this place, but you’ll want to have your camera at the ready, especially once you reach the monastery in the center of the town. The River Dronne goes through the village and is reminiscent of Venice, which is why locals refer to it as the Venice of Périgord.

The abbey is the heart of Brantôme. Charlemagne founded it back in 769, and its Romanesque bell tower is the oldest of its kind in France. Standing in its shadow, you can hear the water flowing below the arched bridge and imagine what life was like when monks rowed across to tend their gardens. 

Behind the abbey, the rock face hides old monastic caves carved by the monks out of limestone centuries ago. You can still walk through the cells, see the remains of a troglodyte mill, and stand in front of the carved Last Judgement. It’s well worth doing and it’s not expensive. 

The old town is lovely too, although it gets very busy in the summer. The streets are lined with old medieval buildings, and some of the shops, the ones next to the monastery, sit within part of the caves, which is quite an experience.

If you go, there are two amazing food experiences to try, one is at Le Moulin de l’Abbeye and the other at Hotel Restaurant Charbonnel. Both have terraces on the river and are French gastronomie at its best.

No. 2 Sarlat‑la‑Canéda

Sarlat is probably the most well-known town in the Dordogne, and it’s like walking into an old fairytale book. I almost wouldn’t be surprised if the child catcher from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang came racing down the old cobbled streets in his sweet cart.

The medieval center is incredibly well preserved, with more than seventy historic buildings. Its honey-colored stone glows in the sunlight, and the narrow lanes are packed with details that stop you in your tracks, from carved doorways to the distinctive Lantern of the Dead. 

The cathedral, once part of a Carolingian abbey, dominates the old town and has stood here in one form or another for centuries. The town was restored in the 1960s, saving it from decline, and now it’s considered one of the best-preserved medieval towns in France.

Sarlat is also famous for its food. It’s Saturday market spills through the streets with stalls selling foie gras, walnuts, ceps, and the prized black truffles the area is known for. In January, the Truffle Festival takes over the town, with cooking demonstrations, truffle hunting displays, and tastings. Even if you’re not here during the festival, the smell of truffles in season will lead you straight to a stall or a restaurant serving them shaved over pasta or eggs.

Film crews have been coming here for years. Sarlat has been the backdrop for more than forty films, including historical dramas where its medieval streets play themselves. The town even holds its own film festival each November.

No. 3 Domme

We come now to Domme, the medieval bastide perched high above the Dordogne. It started life in 1281, founded by King Philippe III as a fortified town. It sits on a steep cliff about 150 meters above the river and was built to keep an eye on everything below. The ramparts, dating back to the 14th century, are one of the best reasons to visit. 

From up there, the view stretches across the Dordogne Valley and the hills beyond, and it’s the kind of panorama you’ll keep thinking about long after you’ve left. You can reach the ramparts through several gates, but the most striking is the Porte des Tours.

Built in the 13th century and reinforced a hundred years later, it’s made up of two round towers joined by a pointed arch. This was once the town’s main line of defense, and if you look closely, you can still see the old archways etched into the stone.

During the Templar trials, prisoners carved cryptic symbols into the walls, octagons, crosses, and triangles. It gives you a chance to catch whispers of the past while you wander. The town’s been through wars too, including English sieges, religious battles, and cliffside assaults.

The covered market, built in 1673, is a lovely piece of architecture and surrounded by old historic buildings and supported by stone columns. Underneath the market, there’s an entrance to one of the largest caves in the Périgord Noir, the Grotte de Domme. It runs for about 450 meters, with galleries leading into a maze of chambers filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and massive stone columns. 

No. 4 Martel

As someone fascinated by Eleanor of Aquitaine, Martel was a must-see for me. This is where one of her sons, Henry the Young King, died. He was the elder brother of Richard the Lionheart and heir to the English throne. In 1183, after pillaging the sacred city of Rocamadour, he took refuge in a house on Martel’s main square. He was just 28 when he died here of dysentery, his plans for the crown cut short.

But that’s not all Martel is known for; it’s also the capital of the black truffle, and if you come here in winter, you’ll see why. The truffle market takes place on Saturdays from December to March under the old market hall.

Growers bring their truffles in wicker baskets, deals are made quickly, and the scent of them fills the air. It’s a serious business, but visitors are welcome to watch, ask questions, and sometimes even get a taste.

It also has the nickname of the town of seven towers, a feature that shapes its skyline. In the 19th century, it saw a new wave of growth when it became a center for the truffle trade. The demand for black truffles was so great that train tracks were built specifically to connect Martel to other regions and export them. 

Today, those same tracks are used by the Truffadou, a sightseeing steam train that runs along the edge of the valley, offering wide views and a reminder of the town’s truffle heritage.

No. 5 Saint-Leon-Sur-Vézère

Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère is officially one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France, and it’s easy to see why. The village sits in a bend of the Vézère River between Montignac and Les Eyzies, with honey-colored stone houses, narrow lanes, and a 12th-century church that seems to rise out of the rock. It’s almost as though you stepped into an old French postcard.

That church is one of the oldest in the Périgord and was built on the site of a former Gallo-Roman villa. Step inside and you’ll notice how the acoustics make even the quietest sounds carry. The village also has two impressive historic homes: the Manoir de la Salle with its square keep, and the Château de Clérans, partly hidden behind its trees but still visible if you know where to look.

Walking the courédous, the narrow medieval alleys, you’re never far from the river. In summer, canoes drift past the stone walls and terraced gardens, giving you the same peaceful view locals have enjoyed for centuries. 

No. 6 La Roque Saint-Christophe

La Roque Saint-Christophe is one of those places that makes you stop in your tracks. Stretching for about a kilometer along a limestone cliff and towering above the Vézère River, it’s hard to believe people once called this place home. But they did; from prehistoric times right through the Middle Ages.

It’s not a cave but a whole village built into the rock, with terraces stacked one above the other. As you walk along, you can still see the cut-outs in the stone where wooden beams once slotted in, holding up houses, storerooms, and workshops. It’s like someone peeled the front off a medieval town so you can see how it all worked.

I loved the reconstructed pulley systems and treadwheel crane on the main terrace. They give you a real sense of how people hauled supplies up from the river far below. You can see how this was a fortress, guarding the valley through the Hundred Years War until it was finally dismantled in the late 1500s.

The views from the ledges are something else. Standing there, you can picture the generations who lived and worked here, with the river winding its way past at the bottom of the cliff. 

No. 7 Montignac

Montignac sits on the Vézère River, and you sense the layers of time the moment you arrive. On the north bank, narrow medieval streets weave past timbered houses that seem to lean toward the water as if whispering stories. 

For me, Montignac is inseparable from Lascaux. It’s the town you pass through when you go to see those extraordinary Ice Age paintings. The original cave was discovered in 1940 and closed shortly after to protect it, but the experience now lives on in a near-perfect replica just a short walk out of town. You step into those galleries and feel a connection that’s hard to describe.

Yet Montignac is more than just the cave. Remnants of its old fortress still hover over the town, hinting at its medieval importance as one of the seats of the Counts of Périgord. The château may lie in ruins now, but walking the streets where it once stood gives you a sense of why people put walls and towers here in the first place.

Eugène Le Roy grew up here, and there’s a small museum dedicated to him if you want to step into the world of 19th-century rural Périgord through his eyes. Beyond the galleries and streets, you can head out on a kayak, follow trails through gentle hills, or wander paths that trace the slow curve of the river. 

No. 8 Gouffre de Padirac

This is one of the most amazing experiences I’ve had in the Dordogne. The Gouffre de Padirac is a vast limestone chasm leading to one of Europe’s most remarkable cave systems. From above, it’s a circle of rock and greenery, but once you step inside, you realize it plunges more than 100 meters deep. You descend by lift or via a zigzag of metal stairs, and the temperature drops as daylight slips away.

You step into a boat that glides onto a subterranean river. Above you hangs the Grande Pendeloque, a monumental stalactite that stretches nearly 60 meters. It hangs there in half-light like a sculpture of time itself. The boat drifts past mirrored pools and through galleries etched by centuries of flowing water.

The chambers are inconceivably tall. There’s the Grand Dôme, where the ceiling soars some 94 meters overhead. You could stand there all day trying to absorb the scale. In between, you get an outline of how the place came to be: limestone from deep time dissolving and collapsing until a cavern formed, and then the roof fell in, revealing this hidden fury.

The explorer Édouard‑Alfred Martel first made it accessible in 1889. The first visitors followed a few years later in 1899, or rather, floated. Today, it’s still one of Europe’s most visited underground sites, and booking in advance is smart because even the quietest season fills fast.

You emerge back into daylight with your head spinning. There’s nothing quite like going down 75 meters into a natural cathedral built by water and returning with that view of the sky.

No. 9 Rocamadour

Rocamadour looks like it’s been stacked layer by layer against the rock. Below is the River Alzou, above is the castle, and in between is a cascade of medieval buildings that seem to defy gravity. It’s been a place of pilgrimage for centuries, drawing everyone from humble peasants to kings.

The village is best known for its sanctuary complex, where seven chapels cling to the rock. The most famous is the Chapelle Notre Dame, home to the Black Madonna, a small wooden statue said to perform miracles. Pilgrims once climbed the Grand Escalier, 216 steps on their knees, to reach it. The Basilica of Saint-Sauveur and the Crypt of Saint Amadour are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site linked to the Santiago de Compostela routes.

The Knights Templar left their mark, and kings like Louis IX made the journey. Even now, the narrow streets are lined with stone houses, arched gateways, and shops selling the creamy Rocamadour goat cheese that carries the town’s name.

If you make it to the very top, past the churches and the village lanes, you’ll reach the castle walls. From there, the view sweeps across the Alzou canyon, a sight worth every step, no matter how hot the day. Rocamadour may be busy in summer, but standing in a place where faith, legend, and history meet makes it clear why people have been coming here for nearly a thousand years.

No. 10 Gluges

Gluges isn’t a village you hear about very often, and it’s usually somewhere people stumble on during a hike. But it has a connection with one of France’s most famous singers, Edith Piaf. My dad loved her music, and she loved this little village so much that she paid for a new stained glass window in the church in 1953. 

She didn’t want anyone to know it was her gift until after she died, and when the truth came out, the locals named the square in front of the church after her. It’s the kind of story that makes you want to linger a bit longer.

The village sits under a line of tall limestone cliffs along the Dordogne River. Here you’ll find the 11th-century church of Saint-Pierre-ès-Liens, partly carved into the rock itself. Close by is the newer church, the Immaculée Conception, also built into the cliff. Together, they feel less like separate buildings and more like an extension of the landscape.

When you walk through Gluges, you’ll find narrow lanes, weathered stone houses, and the sound of the river. There’s no traffic or tourists to speak of, and you get a wonderful sense of calm as you walk through.

Things To Do in the Dordogne

Canoeing and Kayaking

The Périgord Noir stretch of the Dordogne is the most popular for paddling, but the rivers Dronne, Isle, and Vézère are quieter and just as beautiful. From the water, you’ll see steep cliffs, sandy or pebble beaches, and maybe even a flash of blue from a kingfisher.

Rental points often offer different routes, with transport back to your starting point or a drop-off upstream so you can paddle back at your own pace. It’s absolutely breathtaking and so worth doing. You don’t need to go all out, you can take your time, and just let the countryside drift by.

Hiking in the Dordogne and Lot

This is a region made for walking. Some routes are flat and easy, while others climb into higher ground for sweeping views. Villages often have short circuits starting from the main square that loop past local highlights.

For longer treks, the Grande Randonnée network links one village to the next, so you can walk for days if you want to. Trails are well-marked and accessible.

Villages with the “Plus Beaux” Label

The Dordogne shares the top spot in France for the most villages awarded the “Plus Beaux Villages de France” title. Ten places in the department have made the list, mostly restored medieval or fortified settlements that have kept their historic character.

In the Dordogne Valley, that includes Domme, with its panoramic views, and riverside spots like Beynac, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, La Roque-Gageac, and Limeuil. The Vézère Valley has Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère and Saint-Amand-de-Coly. 

Other standouts are Belvès, perched above the Nauze Valley, and the English-built Monpazier, one of the best-preserved bastides in France. Saint-Jean-de-Côle in the north rounds out the list.

Castles and Fortresses

The Dordogne has more castles, manor houses, and fortresses than anywhere else in France, with around 1,500 in total. Over forty are open to the public, each with its own story and mix of architectural styles from different eras.

Some of the most visited include Château des Milandes, once home to Josephine Baker, the hilltop Château de Biron, and Château de Jumilhac with its distinctive slate roofs. Château de Bridoire is known for its games and interactive displays, making it a fun stop for families.

There are also unique sites like Maison Forte de Reignac, a fortified house built into the rock face that still has its original furnishings. For classic medieval might, head to the fortress at Beynac or Castelnaud across the river. For something grand and elegant, Château de Hautefort stands out with its classical architecture and landscaped gardens.

Bastides of the Dordogne

Bastides are fortified towns built in the Middle Ages to attract settlers and strengthen control over key areas. Many sprang up on both sides of the Dordogne during the Hundred Years’ War, when France and England were fighting for control.

Monpazier, built in 1284 by Edward I of England, is often called the best-preserved bastide in the region. Its central square, arcaded walkways, and perfectly straight streets are still intact. Villefranche-du-Périgord is one of the oldest and is known for its autumn mushroom market. Beaumont-du-Périgord was built in the shape of an H to honour Henry III, while others like Domme, Molières, and Eymet carry a distinct French stamp.

Food and Wine Routes

The Dordogne is heaven for food lovers, with routes dedicated to its most famous products.

• Route de la Noix du Périgord takes you past walnut orchards, farms, and markets where you can taste and learn about local varieties.
  
• Route du Foie Gras du Périgord links farmers, producers, and restaurants specialising in traditional goose and duck foie gras.
  
• Route de la Pomme du Limousin winds through orchards in the northeast, especially lively in summer when producers run free tours.
  
• Route des Vins de Bergerac introduces over 140 winemakers producing everything from sweet Monbazillac to bold Pécharmant.

Local Specialties

The neighboring Lot also influences the Dordogne’s menu. You’ll find Cahors wines, prized for their deep, rich flavor, and Rocamadour goat cheese served fresh or warmed on a salad. There’s also Bleu des Causses, a creamy blue-veined cheese, and tender Quercy lamb with its own quality label.

Seasonal highlights include black truffles in winter, with the most famous market in Lalbenque. Pescajoune, a sweet buckwheat and wheat pancake flavored with brandy and fruit, is a local treat worth trying.

Caves and Prehistoric Sites

As I said earlier, the Dordogne is packed with caves, from prehistoric art to dramatic rock formations. Some can only be visited with a guide to protect their fragile microclimates.

Highlights include the mammoth carvings in the Cave of Rouffignac, the crystal-like formations in the Grand Roc, and the prehistoric paintings at Villars. La Roque Saint-Christophe offers a glimpse into centuries of human habitation in its cliffside dwellings. 

Sites like the Gouffre de Proumeyssac, the Grotte de Cougnac, and the Cave of Tourtoirac each offer their own unique underground world.

Gardens and Parks

The Dordogne has 33 parks and gardens, with 14 earning the title of Jardin Remarquable. Each offers a different style, from the formal designs at the gardens of Château de Hautefort to the modern creativity of the Jardins de l’Imaginaire in Terrasson.

The Manoir d’Eyrignac is known for its perfectly clipped hedges and classical symmetry. The hanging gardens of Marqueyssac are famous for their winding paths and sweeping river views. Many towns, including Périgueux and Bergerac, have won awards for their floral displays.