7 Hidden Medieval Gems in France That Feel Like a Portal to the Past
Choosing where to stay in France is hard because there are so many gorgeous little towns and villages that never make it into the travel guides when you do a Google search, which, in my opinion, is a crying shame. So, rather than give you all the obvious places that have been written about more times than I’ve had hot dinners, I’m sharing some true hidden gems you’ve probably never heard of.
Usually, the time to find these places is when you’ve got lost and stumbled upon them by mistake. As you start to explore France, you’ll realize there are hundreds of stunningly beautiful places that feel like you’ve stepped into another time or era.
France excels at preserving its history. They’re proud of it and want to show it off, so you’ll find these places haven’t changed much, and if you took away the cars, you could be forgiven for thinking you’d literally fallen through time. It’s one of the many things I love about living here.
7 Medieval Gems in France Where Time Stands Still
Wherever I am in France, I’m always interested to know the history of a place. Who built it, the people that lived there, and how it developed over the years. Pretty much every village has a church, no matter how small they are, and they tell a story all of their own as the hub of a medieval village. Many were built over 1000 years ago, and if their walls could talk, you’d wonder what they’d tell you.
One thing is for sure: we have it far easier now than they did five hundred or so years ago. Even so, we tend to look at history through rose-tinted glasses, gazing at the splendor of the old chateaux and envisioning knights on horseback.
These seven towns all have that feeling of entering another time, when life was far more peaceful and time was measured by the rising and setting of the sun.
Verteuil-sur-Charente (Charente)
As I live in the Charente, it’s the natural place for me to start, and our journey begins in a little village called Verteuil. The Château de Verteuil, with its fairytale turrets, dominates the village and has done since the 11th century when the La Rochefoucauld family first built it.
Over the centuries, the château has seen sieges, revolutions, and restorations. It was occupied by the Nazis during the Second World War, although the Resistance hid in the tunnels underneath the castle, right under the noses of the Germans.
It’s a stunning place, and even though I’ve lived here for ten years and often go to the village, it still takes my breath away. The Charente River runs through the village, and as you cross the stone bridge to walk up to the main square, the views either side stop you in your tracks.
The square is where everything happens. On Sundays, a little market runs until around 12:30 pm, and the bistro bar opens, perfect for enjoying a coffee or a wine. Every Thursday, the pizza van arrives, and it’s a real mix of expats and French enjoying pizza al fresco with a carafe of wine.
But for me, it’s the history of the place that really fascinates me. There are numerous stories from the many wars that ravaged France, from the Middle Ages through to the occupation during the war. Unfortunately, you can no longer visit the chateau as it’s now privately owned, and the old convent has also shut its doors to the public, but it’s one of those villages that will stay with you long after you’ve gone home.
Minerve (Hérault)
It was during a holiday when we stayed near Carcassonne that we spent a lovely Sunday exploring the village of Minerve. Perched on a rocky promontory where two gorges meet, the village gives the impression of being carved out of the limestone cliffs. It can trace its history all the way back to the Bronze Age.
Today, it’s a place of quiet beauty, but in the summer of 1210, these same cliffs echoed with the brutality of the Albigensian Crusade. What happened was truly horrific and left its mark for hundreds of years.
Simon de Montfort brought his army here during the campaign against the Cathars, a religious group condemned as heretics by the Catholic Church. Minerve was a stronghold, and for six long weeks, the villagers resisted the siege. But the army’s catapults smashed the bridges and water supply, and when surrender came, it was merciless. Over 140 Cathar men and women refused to renounce their faith and were burned alive. A simple stone now marks the spot where they died, a sobering contrast to the serenity you see today.
It’s another one of those places that makes you think you’ve entered a time warp. You park your car in the car park at the top of the village, then wind your way down and up again, taking in the fantastic views. It’s not very big, but there are a couple of places you can grab a bite to eat. We ate at a wonderful place called Aux 2 Rivieres out on the terrace with the most stunning views of the gorge below.
We also took time to walk down to the gorge below after lunch and crossed the river to the other side to see the trebuchet, a piece of medieval artillery used to launch projectiles at approaching enemies. There were four in total during the Cathar siege, but sadly, they weren’t enough to keep Simon de Montfort and his troops out.
Monflanquin (Lot-et-Garonne)
Monflanquin sits high on a hilltop overlooking the rolling fields of Lot-et-Garonne, and as you approach, you can see why this spot was chosen almost eight centuries ago. Founded in 1256 by Alphonse de Poitiers, the town was part of a network of bastides built to secure the region during a time when France and England were constantly at each other’s throats.
The layout is pure medieval strategy: a perfect grid of narrow streets converging on the main square, the Place des Arcades. This was the heart of the town, where trade once flourished beneath the arcades. Even now, the houses here, with their carved stone lintels and wooden beams, feel like silent witnesses to centuries of deals, disputes, and proclamations.
Look out for the Maison du Prince Noir, rumored to have been where the Black Prince once stayed during the Hundred Years War, although there is no record of that name until the 20th century. Then climb to the Église Saint-André, whose uneven axis tells of centuries of rebuilding after war and revolution. Don’t miss the bastide museum, Musée des Bastides, where you can see how these fortified towns were designed to control and protect.
Afterwards, walk up to the panoramic terrace on the edge of the village. The views stretch across the Haut-Agenais hills, the same vantage point that once gave guards an early warning of trouble. If you’re there on a Thursday, the market fills the square with stalls selling local cheeses, walnuts, and duck confit.
Auch (Gers)
The Gers region is such an underrated part of France. I was so surprised when I visited how beautiful it is, almost reminiscent of the Dordogne with its rolling hills and stunning views. Auch is a town in two halves. The lower town sits by the Gers River, with wide boulevards and the bustle of modern life. Above it, perched on a ridge, is the medieval upper town, where narrow streets wind past stone houses and history feels close enough to touch.
Linking the two is the monumental staircase, 370 steps that climb from the river to the cathedral. It’s a journey worth making, but be prepared for your legs to ache by the time you reach the top. Luckily, the views more than make up for the climb.
At the top, you find the Cathedral of Sainte-Marie, a Gothic and Renaissance masterpiece that dominates the skyline. The viewpoint opens up over the Gers valley with 360-degree views of the farmland below. Its choir stalls are extraordinary: 1,500 tiny carved figures, each one unique, some biblical, others fantastical.
Halfway up the staircase, look for the statue of d’Artagnan, Gascony’s most famous son, immortalized with his sword and plumed hat. Auch was the heart of Gascony, and you can feel that spirit in the old streets as you wander past the timbered houses leaning toward each other, little squares tucked between arcades.
Come on market day, and the square fills with color and the smells of Armagnac, foie gras, and duck confit. If you can grab yourself a bottle of Floc, it’s a fortified wine, similar to pineau in the Charente, but made with Armagnac instead of Cognac.
Brantôme (Dordogne)
Brantôme sits on the borders of the Charente and the Dordogne and is somewhere you won’t want to leave. I went for a day trip and really wished I could have stayed longer. The River Dronne curves around the village like a protective arm, its reflections broken only by the arches of old stone bridges.
But the focal point, and wow factor of the town, is the Benedictine abbey, its pale walls rising against a backdrop of cliffs. Founded in the 8th century under the patronage of Charlemagne, the abbey has anchored this community for more than 1,200 years. Its bell tower, solid and square, is one of the oldest in France. It’s absolutely worth paying to go in as it’s not expensive (7€ for self-guided) and all the signs are in English as well as French.
Behind the abbey, the cliff hides a world carved by human hands. The troglodyte caves were once the refuge of the first monks, hollowed into chapels and sleeping quarters. Step inside and you’ll see traces of that austere life with the simple cells, a refectory, and the remarkable Last Judgment carving, its figures etched in stone centuries ago.
When you’ve explored the abbey and its caves, follow the river’s curve. Paths wind past weeping willows and gardens, and if you want to see Brantôme from another angle, hire a canoe or join one of the boats that circle the island. I didn’t do this, but it looked like so much fun.
If you want to splurge on a meal, then I can highly recommend Le Moulin de l’Abbeye; they do the most incredible walnut bread. I’ll warn you, though, it’s not cheap, but it’s worth every penny as the food is superb and the views are stunning as you sit there on the edge of the water.
La Couvertoirade (Aveyron, Larzac Plateau)
If you’re fascinated by the Knights Templar, then make sure you add La Couvertoirade to your list. It rises from the Larzac plateau like a fortress frozen in time. Classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela, it’s as if it’s still guarding the secrets of the Templars who first settled here in the Middle Ages. It’s like a mini version of the walled city of Carcassonne.
The knights of the Order of the Temple built this stronghold as a refuge on their return from the Crusades, and when their order fell, the Hospitallers took over. Step through the fortified gate, and the past closes in. And as for those ramparts, well, I could almost hear the sound of the knight’s horses charging across and into the town.
The cobbles lead you past houses topped with lauze stone roofs, to the commander’s house and the vast communal oven where bread was once baked for the whole village. Take the steps cut into the rock up to the Church of Saint-Christophe, built in the 14th century but standing on a site that dates back to the 4th century. Outside the walls, the Windmill of Le Rédounel turns in the breeze, its sails restored to working order; the only one of its kind in Aveyron.
Provins (Île-de-France)
If you’re staying in Paris, then Provins is the perfect day trip. The entire place is like stepping into the medieval era, almost like an open air museum; it’s so perfectly preserved. I was in my element when I went, and didn’t know where to look as it felt like there was something new to discover around every corner. Plus, they have daily shows with knights and birds of prey, and you can even join a medieval banquet.
Once the hub of the great Champagne Fairs, this town was where merchants from across Europe came to trade cloth, spices, and silver in the 12th and 13th centuries. Its wealth built high ramparts, fortified gates, and towers that still stand today, making Provins a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best-preserved medieval towns in France, up there with Carcassonne. These fairs were the lifeblood of the town and continued until just after King Philip IV came into power and taxed the town so heavily that it fell into decline from which it never really recovered.
Begin at the Tour César, a massive watchtower dominating the skyline, which was once a prison. Climb its spiral staircases for views across the rooftops to the countryside beyond, the same vantage point from which guards once used to spot approaching armies. From there, follow the ramparts that encircle the upper town, and remember to look up as it gives you such perspective as to just how large these walls really are.
Provins is full of layers. Beneath the streets, the old underground galleries stretch in a network of vaulted rooms where merchants once stored goods and secret meetings were held during the Middle Ages.
Provins has a long-standing love affair with roses that dates back to the 13th century. It was Count Thibaud IV of Champagne, who returned from the Crusades with the Damascus rose, a fragrant flower that flourished in the town’s gardens. Over time, Provins became known for its rose-based products, syrups, jams, and even medicinal remedies. Many shops still sell rose petal jam and syrups, keeping alive a heritage that began nearly eight centuries ago.
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