The Story of the Rouen Clock, Le Gros Horloge de Rouen

Discover the story of the astronomical Rouen clock in Normandy that’s been around for over 700 years.

Rouen is one of those medieval cities in France that makes you feel as though you’re stepping into the pages of a history book.

The half-timbered houses, old cobbled streets, and gothic cathedral take your breath away.

And then there’s the gastronomy. There are over 600 restaurants in Rouen, and their food is legendary. Their cuisine has even been given UNESCO status.

But what about the old clock in Rouen, the one that stands in the centre of the city? It’s been there for over 700 years, ensuring things run like clockwork for the people of this town.

But how did it get there? Who built it, and how has it developed over the years? Let’s dive in and find out.

The Gros Horloge’s Journey Through Time

Translating to ‘Great Clock’ in English, it sits in the middle of one of the main pedestrian walkways through the city of Rouen, aptly named ​​Rue du Gros-Horloge. 

From the market square, Place du Vieux Marché, where you’ll find the church of Joan of Arc, you can walk up Rue du Gros-Horlage and on up to Rouen Cathedral. It’s roughly halfway between the two.

This astronomical clock, with its origins dating back to 1389, is not just a timekeeper but a historical beacon that has watched over the city through centuries of change. 

It’s captivated many painters in history, including J.M.W Turner, who created a picture of ink, gouache and watercolour in 1832.

Through his eyes, the Gros Horloge transcends its role as a timepiece, becoming a symbol of the timeless dialogue between art and history.

But to truly understand the history of the clock, we need to take a trip back in time to where it all began.

The Dawn of Timekeeping in Rouen

The clock’s journey started in 1389 when Jourdain del Leche created the initial mechanism for the clock. But that was all it was a mechanism, there was no face to the clock. 

Unfortunately, Jourdain didn’t have the expertise needed to complete it, so that was it for nearly 150 years.

The Faces of the Rouen Clock

In 1529, Jean de Felain, an accomplished clockmaker, took over the work Jourdain del Leche started. His work involved crafting two identical, ornate dials, one on each side of the arch that houses the Gros Horloge, ensuring that the time could be seen from both directions along the bustling street below.

The dials each featured a 2.5-metre-wide face adorned with 24 rays of sun against a blue, star-studded background.

This was symbolic in reflecting the celestial movements that govern time. You’ll even see the sun represented in some unique ways in Rouen, including on the roads.

At the centre of each dial, a single hand, ending with the depiction of a lamb, swept across the hours, a nod to Rouen’s historical significance in the wool trade and a symbol of purity and sacrifice in Christian iconography.

Above the main dial, de Felain added a sphere that displayed the phases of the moon, completing a full rotation every 29 days.

It enhanced the clock’s functionality as an astronomical instrument and also deepened the connection between the Gros Horloge and the celestial bodies it was designed to track.

Below the main dial is an intricate set of carvings representing the days of the week through the figures of Roman gods, each symbolising a specific day. 

• Monday is symbolised by Luna (the Moon), embodying the moon’s influence and marking the beginning of the week.
• Tuesday is represented by Mars, the god of war, reflecting the planet Mars’ association with this day.
• Wednesday features Mercury, the messenger god, corresponding to the planet Mercury.
• Thursday is dedicated to Jupiter, the king of gods, aligning with the planet Jupiter’s significance.
• Friday showcases Venus, the goddess of love and beauty, linked to the planet Venus.
• Saturday is attributed to Saturn, the god of wealth and time, mirroring the planet Saturn.
• Sunday is represented by Sol (the Sun), celebrating the sun’s central role in the solar system and its influence on life.

The Gros Horloge Archway

The Renaissance arch is a pedestal for the clock, and as you pass underneath it, you’ll see some very old sculptures. 

The first thing you notice is the Rouen Coat of Arms in the centre of the arch, featuring the lamb of God on a red background. 

It’s held up by two angels, one with its head to the side, representing how discontented the workers were at the time of construction.

Underneath is a sculpture of Christ depicted as a shepherd with four lambs around him.

The Belfry of Rouen (Le Beffroi)

Constructed between the late 14th and early 15th centuries, the belfry houses the bells that have chimed the passage of time for the citizens of Rouen for centuries.

This Gothic tower, adjacent to the clock, was integral to the functionality of the Gros Horloge, housing the original mechanism that drove the clock’s movements. 

The belfry’s primary purpose was practical, containing the weights and gears necessary for the clock’s operation.

However, its architectural significance and beauty reflect the Gothic style prevalent in Rouen, characterised by its pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and flying buttresses.

In a time when bells regulated the rhythms of daily life, from marking the hours for work, prayer, and rest to signalling alarms in times of danger, the belfry was a focal point of communal identity and cohesion.

The belfry of the Gros Horloge, along with the clock itself, was recognised as a historic monument in 1862. 

Electrification of the Rouen Clock

In the 1920s, the Gros Horloge underwent a significant modernisation process, the electrification of its timekeeping mechanism. The primary reason for electrifying the Gros Horloge was to ensure its continued precision in timekeeping.

Despite the remarkable craftsmanship of its medieval mechanism, the clock faced challenges common to all mechanical timepieces, such as wear and tear on its parts, which could affect its accuracy. 

By the time it happened, its inner workings, though still functional, were showing signs of age. The mechanical components, having operated for centuries, required regular maintenance and adjustments to keep the clock running smoothly. 

Restoration for the New Millennium

Between 1997 and 2006, the Rouen Clock underwent restoration to address the centuries of wear and environmental exposure that had taken their toll. It still amazes me that even though Rouen was a target for German bombers during WW2, and much of it was destroyed, the clock was left undamaged.

At the heart of the restoration was the clock’s intricate mechanism, which was carefully dismantled, evaluated, and restored to its original glory.

The goal was to ensure that the clock not only functioned with precision but also remained true to the craftsmanship of its creators.

The electrification components added in the 1920s were also updated to modern standards as well.

The Gros Horloge Today

The Bell Tower now houses a museum as part of it and, is a great opportunity to step inside a piece of living history, providing insights into the clock’s operational mechanics.

To get to the top, you have to climb a narrow spiral staircase, and as you climb, you get little glimpses of the mechanisms, which is fascinating. 

It’s worth the climb because once you get to the top, the entire city of Rouen unfolds beneath a tapestry of rooftops, spires, and the winding Seine River. 

When I did my walking tour of Rouen, I listened to the audio for the bell tower, which was fascinating. It’s where many of these facts came from.

But it was the audio for the Bell Tower Museum which really got me. The voice narrating the audio told us it was a ghost of one of the old clocktower keepers, a nice little touch for the tourists.

Other Astronomical Clocks in France

• Strasbourg Cathedral Astronomical Clock: A masterpiece of the Renaissance period, this clock is renowned for its intricate automata and celestial calculations, showcasing the full zodiac and the positions of the sun and moon.
• Besançon Cathedral Astronomical Clock: Crafted in the 19th century, this clock features over 30,000 parts and displays a perpetual calendar, solar and lunar eclipses, and the local time in 70 cities around the world.
• Lyon Cathedral Astronomical Clock: Dating back to the 14th century, this clock stands out for its astrolabe and calendar dial, offering a glimpse into medieval understandings of the cosmos.
• Cathedral of Saint-Jean in Besançon: Not to be confused with the more complex clock in the city, this earlier version, built in the 16th century, is admired for its beauty and the precision of its astronomical indications.
• Cathedral of Saint-Pierre in Beauvais: This clock, although less known, is a hidden gem that features a calendar and the moon’s phases, reflecting the Gothic era’s fascination with the heavens.

Take a Walking Tour of Rouen

Wherever I go, I love to take a guided tour of a place as it allows me to soak up so much more of the history of where I am. This 90-minute private walking tour of Rouen is tailored to your interests and is the perfect introduction for first-timers to the city or a deep dive for those with limited time. 

You’ll have the undivided attention of a professional guide, ensuring a personalised experience where you can get all your questions answered and go at your own pace.

My sister and I had a lovely time with Antoine. He gave us a very good overview of Rouen’s highlights – the buildings, museums and history. I will definitely recommend this tour!

BARBARA

FAQS: The Medieval Astronomical Clock In Rouen

Final thoughts: The History Of The Rouen Clock in France

Staying in the medieval city of Rouen is an absolute treat, and I’m looking forward to going back, but preferably not in November, like my last trip.

There is so much to do and see in Rouen that two days just wasn’t enough, and although I squeezed in a climb up the bell tower, there was still a lot I didn’t get to do.And if you’re staying in Paris and looking for a good day trip, Rouen is under an hour away by train.