From Crêpes to Culture Shocks: Why Moving to Rural France Was the Best (and Hardest) Thing I Ever Did

If you’ve ever thought about moving to France and living the French life, I’m sharing my experience of life in rural France.

So many times, I’m asked the question: What is it like living in France? Is it all it’s cracked up to be? Is it fabulously chic? Do you speak French now? And the classic: Do you eat croissants every day?

Hmm… well, I can quite honestly say I don’t eat croissants every day, but I do indulge in plenty of pastries and fresh bread. More on that later.

So, where do I start when it comes to living in France?

There are so many wonderful things to tell you, and I don’t want to leave anything out. From the culture and history to the countryside and the weather, I feel like we really have it all.

What is it like living in France?

This is my version of what it’s like to live here as an expat and a true account of why I’ve fallen in love with the French way of life.

And it wouldn’t be a true account if I didn’t mention the things I miss, too.

We’ll start with the obvious and then move on to the things that really make France special.

The things that give it that “je ne sais quoi”.

The Wonderful Weather in France

I know it’s cliche, but the weather is at the top of my list. Sunlight is a necessity for me; I don’t do well without it.

I get quite morose and depressed when faced with days and days of endless grey skies.

And the UK, where I hail from, has too many grey days for my liking. I definitely suffer from SAD syndrome. 

When we were looking for our property, location was important, as was the weather. Whatever region we chose needed to have plenty of sunshine hours in a year.

Being from the UK, the weather is a big topic of conversation and something we always talk about.

When I lived in Australia, the Aussies used to tease me about how often I mentioned the weather in a day.

Once a Brit, always a Brit.

Now I live in the Charente region of southwest France, where we get an average of 2,400 hours of sunshine yearly. It’s the sunniest place on the Atlantic coast.

It’s not unheard of to be sitting in the garden in my shorts in February. 

It makes such a difference to see the sun for so much of the year. My whole mood changes, I feel more positive, and nothing ever seems quite as hard.

Now, not all of France is lucky enough to have that weather. In the Northern part of the country, the weather is not dissimilar to the UK’s.

Go further south, and it all starts to change.

Property in France: Getting more bang for your buck

When it comes to property, you get so much more for your money here in France.

I know for a fact that the house I have here in France would be unaffordable for me in the UK. It would cost us at least four or five times more.

There are bargains everywhere if you know where to look and do your research.

For example, the Dordogne and the Charente are basically neighbours with similar countryside and houses.

The same style of property costs 30% more in the Dordogne than it does in the Charente, simply because people have heard of the former, and it’s become a sought-after area.

It comes down to doing your homework.

A big rural property complete with barns and land isn’t just a dream; it can easily become a reality. We have a huge four-bedroom house plus three big barns attached that we’ve renovated.

It even includes a party barn, with one floor dedicated to my karaoke and the bar and ping-pong table downstairs.

Is it a bit ridiculous? Definitely, but who cares? We’re in the middle of rural France, living our own French dream.

Now obviously you need to know the ramifications of what you’re buying and the work that might need doing.

Renovating here brings its own set of issues. However, would I change it if I had the chance to do it all over again? No, I wouldn’t.

We’ve had the opportunity to put our own stamp on this property whilst still retaining its original charm.

In fact, I recently discovered that our house actually sat within the walls of the old Le Coq Castle.

Owned by Baron Le Coq, it was destroyed in the French Revolution. However, some of the remnants still remain, such as the well and the bread oven.

The original castle, built in the 16th century, was one of two fortified buildings in the area. 

There’s a wall just across from our property that formed part of the castle’s fortifications. Below is our land, which leads down the hill to the river.

I often sit there in the summer, lost in the idea of the knights that might have climbed the walls in years gone by.

This brings me nicely to the history of France.

A Chateau on Every Corner in France

In the same way as there is a pub on every corner in Britain, there’s a chateau on every corner in France.

Many of these chateaus have been in the family for hundreds of years, such as Chateau de La Rochefoucauld in the Charente. It’s been in the family of the same name since the 10th century.

The French love their history and have a rich and diverse culture, which they celebrate at every chance.

So many of the villages you come across still have medieval Abbeys, Castles, Monuments, Bridges, etc.

They preserve their history lovingly and showcase it for all to see. 

As you explore these lovely little villages, it feels like nothing has changed, and you could be in a different century.

They’re a tapestry of the lives lived and the stories of times gone by.

Each village has a Marie (town hall) and the “Carte Cadastrale”, a map of the commune, along with all sorts of other details on the history of your village.

Many families in the more rural areas have lived in the same village and often the same house for many generations.

They can tell you all sorts of things about life in your village, local disagreements, land disputes, and so much more. 

The census records date back to 1826 and are updated every five years.

You’ll often find the best sources of information at your “Maison de la Presse” (newsagent), which sometimes has books on local history.

Two websites I’ve found hugely helpful for researching my local area are Gallica and My French Roots. 

The Famous French Cuisine

France is famous for its food, and rightly so. For the French, meals are to be savored and enjoyed with family and friends in a leisurely manner.

Mealtimes are not a rushed affair. They take hours to prepare and even longer to eat. And it’s not just about the food.

It’s about how you welcome your guests, set the table, pair the food with the right wine, and so much more.

And let’s not forget the famous French Apéro tradition.

One thing I’ve learned since living here is how resourceful the French are, including what they eat.

Most of our neighbours grow their own veggies. Claud, the farmer three doors up from me, grows everything you can imagine.

From his juicy Charentais melons to huge prize-winning pumpkins and rows of asparagus. 

I’ll never forget my dog Lottie racing across Claud’s field of melons, just after we’d moved there, with one of them in her mouth.

She was immensely proud of herself, unfortunately, Claud wasn’t so impressed. We had to promise we wouldn’t let her off the lead near his field again.

Although he’s softened a bit now, I think he’s quite fond of her.

For me, though, it’s the foraging that I really love. Our neighbour Stefan loves to forage for anything he can get his hands on.

Every year, he brings us a basketful of the local mushrooms, Ceps (cèpe).

He and many of our French friends will go out in the forest to forage for them when they’re in season.

It’s a race to see who can get there first and get the best of them.

So much of French food is actually quite simple to make, and it’s about choosing the right ingredients.

10 French Dishes Famous Around the World

Coq au Vin is a classic French stew made with chicken braised in red wine, bacon, mushrooms, and garlic. It is really good served with mashed potatoes.

Ratatouille is a vegetable stew made with aubergine, zucchini, onions, tomatoes, and peppers, cooked slowly until the vegetables are tender.

Beef Bourguignon: Another classic French stew, this one is made with beef, red wine, bacon, and onions and slow-cooked for several hours until the meat is falling apart. Great served with crusty bread.

Quiche Lorraine is a savoury tart made with eggs, cream, bacon, and cheese. It is often served as a light lunch or brunch, accompanied by a side salad.

Crème Brûlée: A classic French dessert made with vanilla custard and a layer of caramelised sugar on top, normally served in individual ramekins.

Tarte Tatin: A sweet, sticky, upside-down caramelized apple tart is usually served warm, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top.

Escargots de Bourgogne are snails cooked in garlic butter and herbs and served in their shells. They are a classic French delicacy worth trying at least once.

Bouillabaisse is a traditional Provençal fish stew made with a variety of fish and shellfish, including saffron, garlic, and fennel. It is typically served with crusty bread and a garlicky aioli.

Salade Niçoise: A salad with tuna, boiled eggs, green beans, tomatoes, olives, and potatoes. It’s usually accompanied by a tangy vinaigrette dressing.

Crépes Suzette: Pancakes with caramelized sugar, butter, citrus juices, and Grand Marnier.

Wine in France is Fabulous

How could I not mention the wine in France? I’m never stuck for choice here; there’s a bottle for every price range.

Again, the French are fiercely proud of their wine heritage, and you won’t see wine from other countries in the supermarket.

My neighbour Stefan, whom I mentioned earlier, has a great wine cellar. It is literally a cave dug into the hill outside of his property.

It’s rumoured to be part of the original castle built by Baron Le Coq in the 16th century.  

You could have a wonderful road trip, sipping your way through France, visiting the vineyards in some of the country’s most scenic regions.

There are so many wine regions to choose from, and I’m lucky to live just 90 minutes from Bordeaux, known as the cultural capital of wine. 

Its wine-making history dates back to the 6th century, and its wines are some of the finest and most expensive in the country.

The best way to understand this region’s wine culture is to enjoy one of the wine tours. Here are two you might enjoy:

• Full Day Wine Tour of Bordeaux
• Half-Day Tour to Saint-Emilion

The Farmers Market and Brocantes

Brocantes (flea markets) are a way of life here in France. The French love a good bargain, and it’s almost like a national pastime, especially in the summer months.

They love to recycle everything, or should I say “hoard”. And they never throw anything away. 

You’ll often find some hidden gems lurking in the stalls of your local brocante that you’d never see in the shops.

I’ve certainly found some wonderful items that would cost a fortune if purchased on Etsy or similar sites. 

You can lose yourself for a good couple of hours at a decent size brocante, and there is always a selection of food stalls.

I mean “brocanting”, no that isn’t a word I just made it up, is thirsty work and you do build up an appetite. 

You haven’t experienced France properly until you’ve been to a brocante. If you’re not sure where to find one, try https://brocabrac.fr/.

You can also buy a book that lists them locally instead. It’s called L’agenda des Brocantes and can be found at most supermarkets or tabacs. 

And don’t forget the local food markets in France

These are just wonderful because it’s where you’ll find your local seasonal fruit and veg. Most villages will have a market once a week, if not twice, and this is where you get the best food.

My local market has a fantastic cheese stall, fish stall, meat van, and all the usual stuff you’d expect to see.

And in the summer, there are the fabulous night markets, which are a quintessential part of French life.

They’re normally found in the village square, so perfect for a cheeky glass of wine after you’ve done your shopping.

I’ll admit, I am that English person with a wicker basket wandering around the stalls attempting to speak French.

It’s such a lovely experience and has become part of my weekly routine living here in France.

Daily Trips to the Boulangerie

It’s true that the French go to the boulangerie daily for fresh bread. It’s a way of life that I love.

The bread here is lovely and fresh and not pumped full of preservatives or anything else, which means it doesn’t last for days on end. Hence, the daily boulangerie trips.

There is nothing quite like the smell of fresh baguettes, flaky croissants, and melt-in-your-mouth pain au chocolat. It’s the breakfast of the French.

It’s almost impossible to walk on by without indulging.

One little thing I love seeing is how the French simply can’t wait until they get home to enjoy their bread.

I’ve lost count of the times I’ve seen people eating their baguettes as they walk along the street.

They are nibbling the end of their bread as they walk home or, in some cases, pulling off big pieces.

The Café Culture in France

Let me just say that Café culture isn’t just a Parisian thing. It’s alive and well in rural France, too, because it’s central to the way of life here.

They are seen as the hub of the village, providing somewhere to go in a place where there might otherwise be little to do.

It’s where local residents get together to chat, socialise, and dare I say, have a good gossip. Often, the scene of entertainment and live music is an essential part of rural life.

There’s nothing better than sitting, drinking coffee outside in a café, and munching on a pastry. 

I love watching the French interact with each other in this way. They gesticulate when they talk, and their hands fly around all over the place. It’s really rather dangerous if you sit too close.

And if you hang out regularly, and are brave enough, it’s one of the best ways to learn French.

It’s the place where the world is set to rights and big political debates happen between neighbors.

If you want to know what’s happening in the village, or France for that matter, spend time in your local café

Ordering coffee can sometimes be a challenge as it’s a little different from ordering at Starbucks or Costa.

Unfortunately, though, many cafés are struggling to survive, especially after Covid, and the French government has stepped in to assist.

According to the Associated Press, the number of French cafés has dropped from 200,000 to 40,000 in the last 50 years, which is sad to hear. 

The 1000 Cafés programme is run by the charity Groupe SOS, which has received funding from the French government to save cafes as social spaces in small towns and villages.

As I said, it’s a way of life here in France, and something we don’t want to see disappear. 

The French Festivals and Celebrations

I don’t think I’ve ever encountered a country with so many food festivals. They’re fabulous. They celebrate anything and everything.

Where else would you find a festival celebrating strawberries and humble asparagus?

There are national holidays and celebrations pretty much every month, too.

So often, I go to the shops only to find everything closed again for another national holiday.

Some of the French Festivals and Celebrations

Epiphanie: Fête des Rois

January 6th—Epiphany: Feast of the Kings. To celebrate Epiphany, the French have a 700-year-old tradition of eating Galette des Rois, the “king cake.” 

La Chandeleur

February 2nd –  Candlemas. La Chandeleur is a day to eat and enjoy crêpes of all varieties. It marks the end of the Christmas season and the beginning of spring. 

Fête de la Musique

June 21 – Fete de la Musique. All over France, musicians and entertainers take to the streets to perform and celebrate the first day of summer.

Beaujolais Nouveau

3rd Thursday in November – Festival of new wine. A wonderful celebration of the new harvest of Beaujolais wine released at 12.01. Everyone is invited to drink the first wine of the season.

The Two-Hour Lunch Break in France is Mandatory

Lunch has almost become a thing of the past for many people. It’s something that can be grabbed quickly while on the go or sitting at your desk.

We wolf it down in 5 minutes flat and are lucky if we take even 30 minutes to appreciate life. Not for the French. 

The French are well known for savouring their food. It’s an experience to be enjoyed, not rushed.

That being the case, we still see many people adhering to the two-hour lunch break here in France.

When we were renovating our barns, our French neighbor, Stephan, was leading the team of workers.

They’d down tools at Midday and we wouldn’t see them again till 2 pm.

I was always a bit worried about the word done after lunch, as quite often a glass of wine accompanied the two or three-course lunch.

Certainly, most of the shops in our region close for two hours from Midday till 2 pm.

You can forget about a quick trip to the pharmacy or the bank. They’re closed and enjoying some time out.

The French Way of Life

Something I’ve learnt from living in France is to value things a little differently. What was important to me in the UK isn’t so important here.

In France, life doesn’t revolve around how much money you earn, the size of your house, or your collection of designer bags and shoes. Material things don’t matter here.

In France, it’s about enjoying moments and the art of life.

The moments that enrich your daily life, both physically and mentally. The French are all about living in the moment.

Spending time with family, enjoying social gatherings and indulging in apéros along with wonderful cuisine is what’s important.

Even at Christmas, Le Réveillon, it isn’t about the presents and gifts but the food and being with friends and family.

The emphasis is on being present in the moment and enjoying the company around you, not going into debt to get the biggest and best presents for your kids.

The French have also honed the art of doing nothing. And I’ve embraced this wholeheartedly. It drove me insane that there was nothing to do here on a Sunday.

Now I love it. It’s a day when I can truly relax.

Sometimes we go out for lunch, maybe a bike ride, and a picnic, or we just chill out in the garden. It’s wonderful to truly do nothing for a day and not feel guilty.

Living here in the Charente, I’ve finally learned to slow down. I enjoy life to the fullest and squeeze every ounce of pleasure I can out of each day.

I’ve perfected the art of living in the moment and indulging in the simplest pleasures.

Entertaining the French way

I love entertaining, and in France, there is always a different celebration happening or event to attend.

Here in the Charente, we spend a lot of time hosting parties at each other’s houses.

As you can imagine, there are many outdoor soirées in the summer. We tend to spend more time doing this than eating out at restaurants.

Apart from being a lot of fun, it means nobody has to be the designated driver as we all live within walking distance of each other.

Last year, we spent Christmas Eve at Anne’s house, my French friend in the next village. We embraced the French tradition of a long, six-course meal that started at around 8 p.m. and finished at midnight.

The food was wonderful and beautifully presented, and some great wines accompanied each course. It was very different from how we usually spend the evening, but we loved it.

Bastille Day is another example of how families come together. We were invited to my neighbor Stefan’s house.

Along with all his family members, we had a lovely afternoon celebrating the day by eating and drinking in his garden.

We finished off watching the fireworks over the river.

The French are fabulous hosts, and nothing is too much trouble for them.

We usually try to take something typically English, as they love trying something different. A particular favorite was cheese and pineapple sticks, who’d have thought it.

They went down a treat and we’re always asked to bring them to a party.

We’ve also hosted many of our own parties, from paella nights out on the patio to karaoke nights on the deck.

Back in 2021, I hosted my own version of a French dinner, which included five courses plus the obligatory cheese course.

I’d made sure to have some dishes that could be prepared in advance, so it wasn’t too labor-intensive on the day.

I think the meal lasted for around six hours in total, but it was so much fun.

What the Expats have to say about Living in France

The best way to understand what it’s like to live in France is to hear it from those who have done it.

Amanda Johnson moved to the Loire Valley in 2006. Here’s what she said when I asked her what she loved about living in France.

“The slower pace of life for one and that leads to a better work, life, balance. The community spirit and the fact that people are genuinely interested in how people are.”

Louise Pickford works as a food stylist in southwest France with her husband Ian. When I asked her what she loved the most about living in the Charente here’s what she said.

“Probably a combination of things. The lifestyle, the weather, the countryside and the local people.”

What do I miss now that I live in France?

Hmm…that’s a hard one to answer. It’s funny because I never thought I’d cope with rural life. I always imagined I’d need to get away regularly and get my fix of city life.

But in fact, it’s been quite the opposite.

I’m always relieved to get home to the tranquillity of my life here in France when I’ve been away.

I love the peace and quiet and the feeling of calm I get as soon as I’m back in the Charente.

However, there are a few things I miss from the UK, and most of them are related to food.

I’ve always loved crisps, and I find the lack of variety here in France a little disappointing. I like my crisp cupboard full of mini cheddars, hula hoops, and Monster Munch.

I used to find the lack of Indian jarred sauces an issue, too. But now, I make my own pastes from scratch and really enjoy doing it.

I also struggle with the lack of Cadbury chocolate. I’m a dairy milk girl, and any other chocolate just doesn’t hit the mark for me.

My friends always bring me supplies when they come over,, and it’s probably good for my waistline that they aren’t readily available.

I suppose one of the things I still struggle with is the lack of any urgency here.

You won’t get same-day delivery here, and the French aren’t in any hurry to get things done.

In everyday life, this doesn’t bother me too much, but from a work perspective, it can be a little frustrating. 

Finally, I’d say my family. I miss not being a little closer to my daughter, my Mum, and my brother.

My Dad passed away in March 2022, so I tend to go back to the UK more now and spend time with my Mum. However, our home here in France is always at the top of the list for friends and family who want some time out and sunshine.

Final thoughts: What is it like living in France?

So that’s an insider’s view on what it’s like to live the French life and immerse yourself completely and utterly in being French.

I love living in France and cannot imagine my life anywhere else. 

I hope I’ve inspired you to think about making the move too.